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94 big reds rotoes and pads for track

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Old 02-21-2010 | 05:44 PM
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Default 94 big reds rotoes and pads for track

yeah i could search but im lazey


what do u guys recomend?

50/50 track street... but capable on the track had a scare at mid ohio at 160mph
Old 02-21-2010 | 06:21 PM
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I have not had any problem at Sebring with my stock set-up. I do run fresh pads and blue racing fluid
before each DE. My runs are around 30- 40 min x 4. When I used my saleen I had brake fade by lap 2 with orange pads..
Old 02-21-2010 | 06:33 PM
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running about an extra 75hp and the back straight at mid o is down hill


im leaning towards slotted rotors and getting my new brake ducts operational
Old 02-22-2010 | 12:20 PM
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If you are currently running stock pads you should have a scare at 160 mph. They will not be adequate to stop the car at those speeds. Try Pagid oranges. Swap them out for track use and go back to the stock pads for street. Don't use the pieces that hold the pad in place so it is easier to swap each time.

You can go slotted rotors by one of 2 ways. Buy 928 GTS rotors and have someone cut slots into them or buy aluminum hats and slotted rotors although the initial setup is pricey it is cheaper in the long run to replace the rotors.

Although I would just try the pagids or some form of racing compound first. If you want even more aggressive stopping power go with the pagid blacks but you will chew through rotors like nothing.
Old 02-22-2010 | 01:44 PM
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not stock pads... some sort of hawk street/track
Old 02-22-2010 | 09:35 PM
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cobaly could u please elaborate

also what about evo uprights
Old 02-22-2010 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by tasracer
cobaly could u please elaborate

also what about evo uprights
The easiest approach for non cast hole is to switch to the 928 GTS rotors. The GTS used the big reds first painted black in 1992. Simple bolt up identical rotor in every way but doesn't have the holes. The only issue with the GTS rotors is they don't have a way to get the gas buildup out from between the pad and rotor and will impact braking so slotting them would be best. There are companies that do this.

Hawk makes a good product. I would have to assume whatever pad you are using is comparable to the Pagid Blues which are a step above the stock pads and don't squeal on the street. You get up into the more aggressive compounds and they chew up your rotors quickly but stop much much better.

You have to decide what is most important. Street or track and you can either swap pads for either use, use a less aggressive compound to prevent the squealing or use an aggressive pad and get better braking and live with the squealing on the street. Down side is a pagid black and even the orange require you to heat the brakes before getting max stopping power out of them.

As yo get deeper into track driving you realize that there are always compromises unless money is no object.

Evo uprights are great if you want to get serious but totally unnecessary for occasional DE use. They are expensive and if you want to reduce unsprung weight buy a light weight dedicated track wheel.

I hope this helps.
Old 02-22-2010 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt

As yo get deeper into track driving you realize that there are always compromises unless money is no object.

I hope this helps.
um i thinki understand this part
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Old 02-23-2010 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tasracer
um i thinki understand this part
Is this you? My friend keeps on trying to get me into a F5000 car I can only imagine how much expense is involved.
Old 02-23-2010 | 11:33 AM
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$20-30 per mile

mid oh is 50 bucks a lap
Old 02-23-2010 | 11:36 AM
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here is the best bang for the buck

im in the orange car

http://rsport.us/2007_MO_Photos.html
Old 02-23-2010 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Is this you? My friend keeps on trying to get me into a F5000 car I can only imagine how much expense is involved.

that was 97

got my but kicked by the best in the biz

buddy rice alex tagliani memo gidley anthony lazzaro patrick carpantier

but i held my own with a budget half of everybody elses and no testing and car development


mike shank racing is now in rolex prototypes
Old 02-23-2010 | 12:02 PM
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Cool stuff.

Way to expensive for my budget but looks like a blast.

Good Luck with the brakes. Let us know what you settled on.
Old 02-23-2010 | 12:19 PM
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I rec the yellow pagids unless your car is much lighter than original and unless you want the bite of the black ones .The yellow ones never get tired. Really expensive though and not friendly on the discs but discs are cheaper than the pads !
Stay out of the blue pagids, not made for cars as heavy and powerfull as ours.
Performance friction have some good pads to (some fellow Porsche drivers like PFC01) and Hawk is apparently cheap and good but I have never tried.

I must say Pagid's prices are just O.o at least I hope someone there is geting rich !
Old 02-23-2010 | 12:23 PM
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Some data

Yellow pagid:
Cold 0.40
At 100°C 0.43
At 300°C 0.47
Max at (@ 550°C) 0.49
Constant working temperature: 400 – 700°C
Max temperature for short period only: 750°C

Black Pagid
Cold 0.44
At 100°C 0.47
At 300°C 0.49
Max at (@ 600°C) 0.54
Constant working temperature 400 – 700°C
Max temperature for short period only: 800°C

Blue Pagid:
Cold 0.40
At 100°C 0.42
At 300°C 0.43
Max (@ 550°C) 0.46
Constant working temperature: 350 – 600°C
Max temperature for short period only: 650°C

Orange Pagid:
Cold 0.39
At 100°C 0.40
At 300°C 0.43
Max at (@ 600°C) 0.49
Constant working temperature: 350 – 650°C
Max temperature for short period only: 700°C



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