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Old 09-15-2009, 11:20 AM
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DDIOOS
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Default Blower Motor

Hi - can anyone tell me what the blower motor does exactly? I have unplugged the rear one inside the right wheelarch as my garage suggested after it continuously blared out a really frightening whinning/ screeching noise. After doing so, for some reason, my turbo seems to feel a bit weak although the noise has disappeared. The parts no. is 965 624 151 00. Thanks
Old 09-16-2009, 07:27 AM
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Vince964T
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I had the screeching noise to for a while and just had it replaced by just a tube, didn't notice any change in performance.

However while it was not working I had issue with high temp on track.
Old 09-16-2009, 11:04 AM
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DDIOOS
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Thanks - which tube is it btw?
Old 09-18-2009, 02:50 PM
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Vince964T
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Originally Posted by DDIOOS
Thanks - which tube is it btw?
mmm I need to check my papers.
It was a while and I am not to organised, I ll see if I find some part numbers.

The noise is really horrible seems like something is really about to blow doesn't it ? It's a roll bearing in the blower unit that goes bad.
Old 09-18-2009, 03:01 PM
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Vince964T
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Ok I actullay found it pretty fast but there was no part nber on the bill this time. 2 tubes at 5 euro a piece... Just the price indicates it was not a Porsche part
Old 09-18-2009, 04:58 PM
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pcar964
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I have the same exact problem right now - the blower motor is screeching and it sounds horrible! What exactly does this part do? Is it necessary? What happens if I just remove it?
Old 09-18-2009, 07:10 PM
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Vince964T
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It's more complex than meets the eye and part of the heating system. What I basically understand is that these blowers are there to circulate the air between the car and the engine bay and they specially help when the car is idle.

The 964 RS didn't had these blowers in the engine compartment, just hooses (like my car now). You still get enough heat, even in Sweden.

When I had both engine bay blowers disconnected oil temp rose pretty quick when going max on a race track, so somehow it disrupted the air flow in the engine compartment. Driving normaly I didn't see any issue.
Old 09-19-2009, 08:24 AM
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DDIOOS
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Vince964T I think you are right - the car doesn't quite feel the same. And I have noticed the screeching noise does happen after the engine has turned off for a while so it has to do with the engine cooling as well.
Old 09-19-2009, 10:34 AM
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I googled a bit and found this.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4709855.html

Helps understand what it does.
I am still not sure I understand why my temp went up so fast without it though. Guessing warm air could not pass through and just was released in the engine compartment.
Old 09-19-2009, 11:21 AM
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Pelican's search function works again ;-)

The 911 engine is an air-cooled engine. As such, it receives much of its cooling via the flow of air from the large upright fan mounted on the engine. Improving the flow of the air helps to keep the engine running cooler, which translates into increased longevity. Since the 911 uses its fan to supply air for the passenger compartment heating system, some of this air is diverted away from cooling the engine. With air cooled cars, the passenger compartment heat is derived not from the engine itself, but from the exhaust temperatures.

If your heater in your 911 is not working or is disabled, then you might want to install what is commonly known as an air block-off plate on the side of the engine fan. Towards the left side of the engine, there is an air outlet that drives the heating system for the car. On the early cars, this flow of air was the only mechanism to push air into the passenger compartment. This arrangement didn’t work very well, and in later years, Porsche installed an additional blower motor in the engine compartment. If your heater system is not working or disabled (as it usually is on a track car), then a good upgrade is to replace your heater air-flow plate with a block-off plate. This block-off plate does exactly what its name implies. It blocks the flow of air, and thus diverts it back over the cylinders, where it can cool the car.

Along the same lines, you should never drive the car without the heater system hooked up properly, or without the airflow blocked off. Allowing the fan to blow air into the engine compartment from an opening in the heater system will rob the cylinders of precious air that is needed to cool them. Hooking up the heater system or blocking it off will create back pressure against the air flow that will force it back over the cylinders.

When re-installing your 911 engine, it’s common for people to leave their heater system temporarily apart during the break-in period. This is because the heater system typically gets in the way of valve adjustments, visual oil leak checks, and the tightening of the head studs. If you don’t hook up your heater system, make sure that you at least use some tape to temporarily block off the flow of air from the left side air duct.
Old 09-20-2009, 12:42 PM
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Thanks alot! Very helpful indeed.
Old 09-21-2009, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince964T
Pelican's search function works again ;-)

The 911 engine is an air-cooled engine. As such, it receives much of its cooling via the flow of air from the large upright fan mounted on the engine. Improving the flow of the air helps to keep the engine running cooler, which translates into increased longevity. Since the 911 uses its fan to supply air for the passenger compartment heating system, some of this air is diverted away from cooling the engine. With air cooled cars, the passenger compartment heat is derived not from the engine itself, but from the exhaust temperatures.

If your heater in your 911 is not working or is disabled, then you might want to install what is commonly known as an air block-off plate on the side of the engine fan. Towards the left side of the engine, there is an air outlet that drives the heating system for the car. On the early cars, this flow of air was the only mechanism to push air into the passenger compartment. This arrangement didn’t work very well, and in later years, Porsche installed an additional blower motor in the engine compartment. If your heater system is not working or disabled (as it usually is on a track car), then a good upgrade is to replace your heater air-flow plate with a block-off plate. This block-off plate does exactly what its name implies. It blocks the flow of air, and thus diverts it back over the cylinders, where it can cool the car.

Along the same lines, you should never drive the car without the heater system hooked up properly, or without the airflow blocked off. Allowing the fan to blow air into the engine compartment from an opening in the heater system will rob the cylinders of precious air that is needed to cool them. Hooking up the heater system or blocking it off will create back pressure against the air flow that will force it back over the cylinders.

When re-installing your 911 engine, it’s common for people to leave their heater system temporarily apart during the break-in period. This is because the heater system typically gets in the way of valve adjustments, visual oil leak checks, and the tightening of the head studs. If you don’t hook up your heater system, make sure that you at least use some tape to temporarily block off the flow of air from the left side air duct.
Can anybody provide a visual reference for what this block-off plate would look like in our cars?
Old 07-20-2011, 02:27 PM
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SleepRM3
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Pelican Parts Catalog for block off plates.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...VENTht_pg2.htm

I needed the left side block-off plate for my '88 (it has the heater and A/C removed for track use.). The right side is blocked off from the factory.

Originally Posted by pcar964
Can anybody provide a visual reference for what this block-off plate would look like in our cars?
Old 07-26-2011, 06:38 AM
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Default Pelican Parts Air Block Off Plate Installed

Pis of the left side fan housing shroud with the air gap left by removing the heater blower and ducting, and after the Pelican Parts air block-off plate was installed on my '88 Carrera 3.4-L race motor.

Last edited by SleepRM3; 11-25-2012 at 09:35 AM.
Old 08-07-2011, 04:13 PM
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you can just unplug the connector on the motor this will stop the noise. Loosen the fender skirt in the wheel well reach up and pull the connector off the motor. I did mine a year ago no issues.


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