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3.6T Suspension Upgrade - Need advice on settings

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Old 09-04-2008, 12:52 AM
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ThunderC4S
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Originally Posted by Boeing 717
Hey thunder that looks like sweet sweet pieces of candy!!!
You should have seen the weight of the suitcase. United Airlines slugged me an extra $50 USD for the weight.
Old 09-04-2008, 02:48 AM
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John McM
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John, you just did my dream trip. Can you share the part numbers and the approx. damage in USD?
Old 09-04-2008, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by John McM
John, you just did my dream trip. Can you share the part numbers and the approx. damage in USD?
Hi John,

Straight from the tirerack.com web site.

Front Left: F4-VE3-5277-H0
Front Right: F4-VE3-5278-H0

Rears: F4-B46-1547-H0

NB: The actual versions shipped all end in H1 instead of H0.

H&R Red Springs: 29834

Ignore the photos on the website next to the product description.

The total cost including Fedex 2 day shipping to my friends house in Los Angeles was approx. 1058$ USD. The products ship from tirerack's Reno Nevada warehouse.

Rgds,

John
Old 09-04-2008, 12:39 PM
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cobalt
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Originally Posted by Metal Guru
I have H&R springs and shocks.
When I purchased my car it was 116 in the front (measured at the front crossmember bolt head) and 226 at the rear(measured at the casting boss on the rear trailing arm). In Adrian's book he lists RS height at 125 in the front and 218 in the rear. He shows the same values for the Turbo S but I believe that the S was possibly 15 mm lower in the front.
Even at 116 in the front there was two inches of thread to go so I could have dropped down to "S" height with no problem.
Here's a picture of the car before I raised the front:
This is what is confusing to me. Your car looks nothing like the turbo S ride height picture I posted. It looks closer to the way my car sits. I know my car is as low as it can be set drives great and is not close to the numbers you are stating. Do you have any pictures without the wheels so we can compare components because I have no threads left and can' get close to 116mm.




A true test for RS ride height. When looking at the arch at eye level the tops of the tires should be covered by the arch. You should not see any light or be able to fit anything between the wheel arch and the top of the tire. If you can you are not at RS or 92 turbo S height.
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Last edited by cobalt; 09-04-2008 at 12:55 PM.
Old 09-04-2008, 02:24 PM
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stu.p
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Thunderc4s!
Looking at your First picture you posted,that set up is the exact same as mine and where your spring platforms are sitting just now on the shocks in the picture that is also close to where mine are just now on my car and should be a good starting point for you before you start to fine tweek when fitted!

Yet again and as others on here have clarified with the same set up!
1/ No excess Bumpsteer at this setting
2/ It will NOT be a bone-jarring ride(actually far better ride than your old standard set up)

Great purchase you have made there,,especially at those cheap USA prices

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"92" 964 turbo,recently rebuilt using all ARP hardware.Modified heads,SC cams 1 bar boost,headers,wastegate/ tial 0.8 spring to acheive 1 bar,cat bypass,own adj wur,rpm switch,powerflow air intake..bilstein hd with h&r springs,front carbon strut brace
Old 09-04-2008, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt
This is what is confusing to me. Your car looks nothing like the turbo S ride height picture I posted.
The pictures are misleading. When my car was at 116mm I couldn't get my index finger thru the gap between the tire top and the wheel arch. If you look closely at the picture you will see that my front tire is line for line with the wheel arch.

Originally Posted by cobalt
A true test for RS ride height. When looking at the arch at eye level the tops of the tires should be covered by the arch. You should not see any light or be able to fit anything between the wheel arch and the top of the tire. If you can you are not at RS or 92 turbo S height.
Many of the narrow-body RS photographs that are in books and on the internet show cars that are far below the factory spec for RS ride height, IMO, so I don't think anyone can look at them and say "That's RS ride height".

I'll post a picture of my coilover tomorrow.
Old 09-05-2008, 12:18 AM
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Y65MPH
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I am not sure what the point on lowering your suspenion to that point. The center of gravity on the 965 will most likely be below the gound. Not very effective. Also if you are running after market headers you are pushing the heat exhcangers very close to the ground. Under hard acceleration you can get super close to hitting any road irregularity. With the power my car develops (625HP+)my car squats to the point the front wheels feel like they come off the ground. I can not argue the look, amazing.
Old 09-05-2008, 06:24 AM
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The instruction sheet for the H&R reds mentions to trim .75 inches from the front bumpstops. Is this required ?


Originally Posted by stu.p
Thunderc4s!
Looking at your First picture you posted,that set up is the exact same as mine and where your spring platforms are sitting just now on the shocks in the picture that is also close to where mine are just now on my car and should be a good starting point for you before you start to fine tweek when fitted!

Yet again and as others on here have clarified with the same set up!
1/ No excess Bumpsteer at this setting
2/ It will NOT be a bone-jarring ride(actually far better ride than your old standard set up)

Great purchase you have made there,,especially at those cheap USA prices

__________________
Porsche inspector for Peter Morgan UK
http://www.petermorgan.org.uk/inspection.htm
"92" 964 turbo,recently rebuilt using all ARP hardware.Modified heads,SC cams 1 bar boost,headers,wastegate/ tial 0.8 spring to acheive 1 bar,cat bypass,own adj wur,rpm switch,powerflow air intake..bilstein hd with h&r springs,front carbon strut brace
Old 09-05-2008, 06:41 AM
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ghhally
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Bilsteins should be mounted without bumpstops.
Should be written in the Bilstein instructions.
Old 09-05-2008, 05:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Y65MPH
I am not sure what the point on lowering your suspenion to that point. The center of gravity on the 965 will most likely be below the gound. Not very effective. Also if you are running after market headers you are pushing the heat exhcangers very close to the ground. Under hard acceleration you can get super close to hitting any road irregularity. With the power my car develops (625HP+)my car squats to the point the front wheels feel like they come off the ground. I can not argue the look, amazing.
I think you meant roll center.
Judging from how low the 964 guys run their cars on the track, I don't think the roll center will end up under the road surface. Bump steer is a much bigger concern (which is solved by using the 993 EVO GT2 uprights and tie rods). Lowering the car will lower the center of gravity, which is a good thing because it reduces body roll. Also, the roll center of the front wants to be below the rear roll center to stop oversteer.
I don't run headers so I don't scrape.
Old 09-08-2008, 12:06 PM
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cobalt
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Changing over to 993 GT2 Evo uprights is a different story. Spoke to my mechanic this weekend and he said ain't happening unless expensive mods are done and why would I want to.

I know I am being obstinate here and apologize in advance but I know the silver turbo S I pictured is set to factory RS height these pictures show you the difference I was talking about. The turbo S sits considerably lower
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Changing over to 993 GT2 Evo uprights is a different story. Spoke to my mechanic this weekend and he said ain't happening unless expensive mods are done and why would I want to.

I know I am being obstinate here and apologize in advance but I know the silver turbo S I pictured is set to factory RS height these pictures show you the difference I was talking about. The turbo S sits considerably lower

About $1800 worth of "mods". If the bump steer doesn't bother you don't do it.

Where my car sits in that picture the front was 116 mm and the rear was 226 mm. This is measuring where Porsche says to measure ride heights at (bolt head on the front crossmember and casting boss on the rear trailing arm). The Turbo S must be 108 mm and 210 mm, which is below RS (140 and 230 mm respectivly).
But hey, don't take my word for it; go and measure your own car. I'm curious to see what height it's at.
Old 09-08-2008, 09:41 PM
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Anthony,
I have JIC's magic and am on or very close to RS in the front no bumpsteer.
Elliot
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:00 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Turbohead
Anthony,
I have JIC's magic and am on or very close to RS in the front no bumpsteer.
Elliot
Elliot,

I know you can get close with the JIC's, unlike the Bilsteins they are fully threaded. Although I have gone over this with several mechanics and 2 cars running the Bilstein HD's and H&R reds. How is it I have 2 cars with identical suspensions as described by the OP that are lowered to their max and cannot do what others say can be achieved using stock components and these upgrades? This is the clarification I am looking for. If I can't do it on 2 cars that is proof enough for me it can't be done with this setup. Something is being missed here or is being changed to make this work.

I am not saying you can't lower a 3.6T to RS height I am saying it needs more than just Bilstein Hd's and H&R reds changed to achieve it.
Old 09-09-2008, 11:09 AM
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cobalt
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Just for comparison here is my car set at min height. It is not close to RS height. IMO they look the same. Here is my confusion.
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Last edited by cobalt; 09-09-2008 at 12:47 PM.


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