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Speedline Etch Template

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Old 08-01-2008 | 05:37 PM
  #16  
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Now that's attention to detail
Old 08-01-2008 | 06:17 PM
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Anthony very good eye - thank goodness I only have three nuts behind all those bolts. You are right on the Alesio wheels the valve stem is dead on the center of a spoke unlike the 3.6 or 993 RS where it is center in an opening facing a specific markings on the inside. I do take notes and when doing final assembly do refer to them.

Jim
Old 08-01-2008 | 08:23 PM
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Very nice looking work.
Old 08-14-2008 | 08:59 AM
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Quick update -

Well i've got the a couple of the demo templates to play with now and will collect the rest, about sixteen sets, tomorrow and then i'll be at the stage of test blasting on some old rims Saturday and if happy with the results doing the actual wheels.

Almost the process as Jim's but the wheels remain complete but very well protected.

So far I'm thinking of using aluminium oxide for the etch as a specialist suggested that would give the most comparable result but may test some glass bead blasting for comparison.
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Old 08-14-2008 | 11:46 AM
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Tape everything very well. If the media gets under the protected areas you will have a hazy area on your polished rim. The media will splatter everywhere. Good luck. Jim
Old 08-14-2008 | 06:22 PM
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I e-mailed the supplier of the blast material a couple of pictures before collecting and now he's decided medium grade glass bead is definately the way to go to get the right finish with a "seal" to the blast so dirt won't adhere as it would if i used the aluminium oxide.

I'll update again with pictures after the weekend.
Old 02-28-2009 | 12:13 PM
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Steve, how did the rims turn out?
Old 03-08-2009 | 12:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cobalt
I hate to do this but your valve stem is not located properly should be dead center of the spokes.
Yep, same thing for the etching: it needs to be centered with on of the spokes - and it's opposite from the valve stem.

BTW: I can see that most people stay with rubber valves. My mechanic recommended replacing them with screw-on valves. What do you think? Keep in mind that speeds in Germany are considerably higher. Has anybody heard of 'problems' regarding higher speeds and the valves? I definitely would not want to place these nasty valve supports (965 361 561 00) on the rim...

Cheers,
hvh
Old 03-09-2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by hvh
Yep, same thing for the etching: it needs to be centered with on of the spokes - and it's opposite from the valve stem.

BTW: I can see that most people stay with rubber valves. My mechanic recommended replacing them with screw-on valves. What do you think? Keep in mind that speeds in Germany are considerably higher. Has anybody heard of 'problems' regarding higher speeds and the valves? I definitely would not want to place these nasty valve supports (965 361 561 00) on the rim...

Cheers,
hvh
I use metal valves. Although the factory is clear they do not approve metal stems and should only use the rubber ones replaced with each tire change.

There are different qualities of metal valves. I would look closely at what he uses. I hate the looks of the valve supports also. There are shorter rubber valves you can use if you decide to stay with rubber.
Old 06-08-2009 | 09:55 PM
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Steve
Whatever happened?
Old 01-09-2010 | 03:42 AM
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Hi there, was there any update on this?

thanks
Old 01-09-2010 | 04:46 AM
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I do it all the time. Here is a sample of a Daytona Speedline wheel I restored several years ago. I prefer to nickel plate the bolts as it is a more durable finish and adds just a little extra to the finished wheel. Jim jdorociak@gmail.com
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Old 01-09-2010 | 04:57 AM
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Jim, what is the process that you use to etch rim? Stencil and bead blast?
Old 01-09-2010 | 12:02 PM
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media blast. Jim
Old 01-09-2010 | 01:05 PM
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Thanks Jim.


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