Bad news, need advice
#1
Bad news, need advice
Haven't posted in a while, as my car has been stuck in my tech's garage for months. Long story short, this car is in massive pain. After only logging 1500 miles since I got the car, I was met with oil leaks galore, investigation of which led to discovery of over 20% leakdown!!!, and you could feel air escaping b/t the head and the block.
Turns out, the solenoid in the intake that controls overboost was disconnected, allowing the car to go into 1.4 bar-ish territory, lifting the head from the block. Also, one of the prior owners messed up the cylinders with bad machining. Head needs work too. With the engine now apart, we could tell that somebody was into the motor in the past, with poor assembly: bolts torqued way out of spec, liberal use of silicone in an attempt to seal things up, the list goes on and on.
Engine is completely stripped down. Here's the current plan:
Complete top end rebuild (headwork, pistons, cylinders) to stock, though with ARP studs. Reuse the K27S turbo, but dial boost back down to 0.8 bar. Keep B&B headers/exhaust. Add in ltw fly and LSD (the car has an open diff, wtf?)
Anyway, the car is undergoing open heart surgery. My goal is a *reliable* street car with good drivability. I'm not interested in generating massive power at the expense of durability.
Noting that I'm already in for repairs that will punch a hole in a a 20,000 dollar bill, what should I be looking to do?
EDIT: this car is strictly for the street; I have a dedicated track car
EDIT 2: quick search reveals that 94s should have LSDs (20/100 lockup). part numbers in the book show open diff, and on the lift, when you rotate one wheel, the other rotates the opposite direction indicating open. I'm really confused.
Turns out, the solenoid in the intake that controls overboost was disconnected, allowing the car to go into 1.4 bar-ish territory, lifting the head from the block. Also, one of the prior owners messed up the cylinders with bad machining. Head needs work too. With the engine now apart, we could tell that somebody was into the motor in the past, with poor assembly: bolts torqued way out of spec, liberal use of silicone in an attempt to seal things up, the list goes on and on.
Engine is completely stripped down. Here's the current plan:
Complete top end rebuild (headwork, pistons, cylinders) to stock, though with ARP studs. Reuse the K27S turbo, but dial boost back down to 0.8 bar. Keep B&B headers/exhaust. Add in ltw fly and LSD (the car has an open diff, wtf?)
Anyway, the car is undergoing open heart surgery. My goal is a *reliable* street car with good drivability. I'm not interested in generating massive power at the expense of durability.
Noting that I'm already in for repairs that will punch a hole in a a 20,000 dollar bill, what should I be looking to do?
EDIT: this car is strictly for the street; I have a dedicated track car
EDIT 2: quick search reveals that 94s should have LSDs (20/100 lockup). part numbers in the book show open diff, and on the lift, when you rotate one wheel, the other rotates the opposite direction indicating open. I'm really confused.
#2
Rennlist Member
Wow sorry to hear....
You said top end rebuild? But I am assuming if your had detonated, then you are also in the block and replacing your P&Cs?
In regards to your overboost, did your boost gauge not indicate that you were running such high levels, also why would your wastegate not bleed off the excess boost, thats why its there.
I am shocked your 3.6 has no LSD? I thought they all came with LSD?
Sounds like your rebuild is costing some big bux.
Keep us posted.
Yasin
You said top end rebuild? But I am assuming if your had detonated, then you are also in the block and replacing your P&Cs?
In regards to your overboost, did your boost gauge not indicate that you were running such high levels, also why would your wastegate not bleed off the excess boost, thats why its there.
I am shocked your 3.6 has no LSD? I thought they all came with LSD?
Sounds like your rebuild is costing some big bux.
Keep us posted.
Yasin
#3
Can't really answer your questions b/c I'm not that knowledgable about these motors. Just found out the car indeed has an LSD, but is shot. Will likely have it rebuilt.
There goes the kids' college fund. Shiat.
There goes the kids' college fund. Shiat.
#4
As for the standard boost gauge,it only reads up to 0.7 so no way of telling if you are over this.
If you are only completing a top end rebuild and not splitting the crankcase i advise you still to replace your crankshaft to conrod bearings and you can also use arp rod bolts in there aswell,tight squeeze but it can be done.
This will only cost an extra tops $500 dollars and take only a couple of hours to do!
If you are only completing a top end rebuild and not splitting the crankcase i advise you still to replace your crankshaft to conrod bearings and you can also use arp rod bolts in there aswell,tight squeeze but it can be done.
This will only cost an extra tops $500 dollars and take only a couple of hours to do!
#5
Burning Brakes
Jeff,
I really feel for you. My car has been with my tech after 3 months of repairs - a top end rebuild plus new clutch, std. flywheel, HFS turbocharger, Tial w/g with 0.8 bar and B&B headers. Like many other 965s, in the past someone who didn't know what they were doing had "looked after it" for a few years. It had also been running 1 bar for 12 years. When my tech had my engine apart, it was clear that no. 4 cylinder was about to detonate and many other parts needed replacing although not the P&Cs. So far I have paid $10k in parts alone.
My tech rang me yesterday and said "I'm afraid I won't be able to give your car back...because I love it so much!" Ba**ard! He's running it in this week and attending to any issues. I'm going to collect it on Friday and pay the final bill, which I expect to be another $10k. He assures me it is worth it...
My aim is the same as yours: a reliable lightly upgraded street car, with around 375bhp.
Good luck and keep the faith!
Cheers,
Tim.
P.S. The LSDs are a servicable part so that should be straightforward enough although I have no idea how expensive the plates are...
I really feel for you. My car has been with my tech after 3 months of repairs - a top end rebuild plus new clutch, std. flywheel, HFS turbocharger, Tial w/g with 0.8 bar and B&B headers. Like many other 965s, in the past someone who didn't know what they were doing had "looked after it" for a few years. It had also been running 1 bar for 12 years. When my tech had my engine apart, it was clear that no. 4 cylinder was about to detonate and many other parts needed replacing although not the P&Cs. So far I have paid $10k in parts alone.
My tech rang me yesterday and said "I'm afraid I won't be able to give your car back...because I love it so much!" Ba**ard! He's running it in this week and attending to any issues. I'm going to collect it on Friday and pay the final bill, which I expect to be another $10k. He assures me it is worth it...
My aim is the same as yours: a reliable lightly upgraded street car, with around 375bhp.
Good luck and keep the faith!
Cheers,
Tim.
P.S. The LSDs are a servicable part so that should be straightforward enough although I have no idea how expensive the plates are...
#6
Burning Brakes
As for the standard boost gauge,it only reads up to 0.7 so no way of telling if you are over this.
If you are only completing a top end rebuild and not splitting the crankcase i advise you still to replace your crankshaft to conrod bearings and you can also use arp rod bolts in there aswell,tight squeeze but it can be done.
This will only cost an extra tops $500 dollars and take only a couple of hours to do!
If you are only completing a top end rebuild and not splitting the crankcase i advise you still to replace your crankshaft to conrod bearings and you can also use arp rod bolts in there aswell,tight squeeze but it can be done.
This will only cost an extra tops $500 dollars and take only a couple of hours to do!
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
If it were mine I'd have the intakes cleaned up and do some hotter cams. Rob a few convenience stores and have the heads and intake manifold ported out. Add an IA fuel head and now your at 400 HP at the wheels.
#10
Rennlist Member
Well, as I understand it, improved flow will require more fuel delivery to keep the AFR's optimal. There is the option of using a Leask modified WUR to increase fuel supply but there is a point that the IA modified fuel head becomes necessary, especially in cases where high flow turbos like the one you have are being used.
I must confess I haven't modified my engine yet so those with experience hopefully will speak up.
I must confess I haven't modified my engine yet so those with experience hopefully will speak up.
#11
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA / Lake Keowee, SC
Posts: 1,027
Received 223 Likes
on
112 Posts
if you keeping the CIS, abut need to do the pistons etcf, go with the 3.8. Much better drivability, low end torque, and not a real cost factor. But Frayed, who did your PPI??? I know you put some work into finding this car, and felt you had found a nice example. I hate to hear things like this.
#13
Rennlist Member
Wow,
Someone pulled the LSD. WTF car must be a handful to drive without one.
Sorry to hear such a botch job. Like others said who did the PPI?
Hope it works out for you and hasn't soured the 965 experience permanently for you.
Someone pulled the LSD. WTF car must be a handful to drive without one.
Sorry to hear such a botch job. Like others said who did the PPI?
Hope it works out for you and hasn't soured the 965 experience permanently for you.
#15
Rennlist Member
A 3.6T shouldn't need any additional fuel with simple bolt on mods. If you are going further and start pushing 400 rwhp you should think of the IA fuel head mod but for most bolt on mods you are safe assuming the boost does not exceed 1.0 bar. Although it sounds like the car has bigger issues.
Wasn't this L8apex's old car which already had Andial enrichment.
Wasn't this L8apex's old car which already had Andial enrichment.