frayed

"Wasn't this L8apex's old car which already had Andial enrichment."

Yes it was his car. And the Andial mods are suspect as well. The car came to me under the representation that it had andial cams. Part number shows stock cams.

How does Andial handle fuel enrichment?

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3.8L. . my tech is an experienced aircooled guy. He is picky about the parts he uses, as experience has shown that some approaches don't work well for street cars. WRT the 3.8L conversion, it's not a big cost adder, but the proposal I have in front of me from a tuner shows JE pistons (Mahle are a lot more) to keep cost down. He doesn't like JE's in these cars, citing piston slap and other issues. He's fine with JE's on track cars, though, since after x seasons, one would usually get into the motor anyway.

Any futher input on the 3.8L conversion would be appreciated.

Autobahn

I just had a top end rebuild. I had 70% leak down on one cylinder! Before the build the car had an adjustable boost setup and a 1 bar spring. I got rid of the adjustable boost **** and added a Tial wastegate with a 0.8 bar spring. With the stock turbo and B&B exhaust and headers the car is now running at 0.92 bar.

I have also added Brian Leask's adjustable WUR with heavy duty diaphragm and solenoid as well as David Newfield's boost/afr gauge. Brian's WUR has truly improved the responsiveness of the car. David's boost/afr gauge not only allows to read accurate boost, but the afr read out also gives you additional peace of mind.

911addict

Autobahn,
It seems you are the first 965 here that has isntalled the Brian Leask WUR, well done!
(I have bought it, but yet to fit it, waiting to book a dyno session first.)
Was it straightforward to install and tune?

Frayed, many of us here have admired L8apex's car over the years, you just never know. When its all done, it'll be a keeper for sure....

Autobahn

911addict,

I had my garage install the WUR and solenoid. According to my mechanic it was pretty much straight forward. I had sent Brian the specs of my car along with a dyno printout. This allowed Brian to make the correct adjustments for my particular setup. I have yet to change the chip on the solenoid (Brian recommended to start with the 4000 rpm unit). I took my car for a spin today and according to the AFR readout I should probably change the chip for the 4200 or 4400 rpm unit.

Autobahn

Really? I thought most modified 965 were using Brian's WUR, that's why I got it in the first place. LOL

Turbohead

Sorry to hear about that mess!
I have a 3.6T stock internals and EFI ,custom turbo and some bolt mods.
Car makes 486 rwhp at 1bar. AFR are very safe and is very very responsive and drivable.
Since your in so deep I would rather put the extra cost to EFI rather than the 3.8 PCs
You will have a really slick and reliable 965.

Is the LSD missing or your tech thinks it is shot?
If it is just clunking at very low speed... most 3.6Ts do that.
Good luck
Elliot

kleinbbc2

My car has had two LSD rebuild no big deal to have done. Both times the disk were shot.

cobalt

Can you give me more feedback on David's gage. I am sending my tach out today. Going with AFR, Boost I/C Temp out and exhaust temp readings. Did you just do the 2? How was the install?

Thanks

bogey1

Cobalt: I met David this weekend at a "car show" in the Atlanta area. Basically about 300-400 car guys meeting in a mall parking lot. Everything from a 63 Vette to a brand new Lombo. Probably 50+ P-Cars. Anyhow, David showed me the guages in his car, and they are TOP SHELF. Extremely flexible in terms of hte displays and inputs. Build quality appeared excellent. Most importanly, David is a class act all the way. I will have one in my car shortly.

Autobahn

Yes, I only got the AFR & boost/vac sensors. I don't understand enough about I/C and EGT readings to have these installed on my car. I am still learning about AFR readings! I will however add an ambient temperature sensor.

The gauge itself is very well done and looks almost stock. The location is perfect and the display is very easy to read (in digital setup) as the numbers are much larger than the stock display. I can't tell you how happy I am to be able to read more than 0.7 bar of boost. The display also shows you peak no. for each of the sensors. You need to get used to the controls. Pulling the lever towards you will switch between sensors unlike the stock setup where you push downwards. No big deal though.

I had my garage install the gauge. They contacted David, who was very helpful and walked them through the installation.

cobalt

Thanks guys.

I am sure David is a great guy, spoke on the phone for about an hour yesterday and he made me very confident his work will be up to me standards. LOL.

Looking forward to it along with some other mods being done next week. I am sure this is going to be a common upgrade for many in the near future.

If it resolves the .7 boost display issue by itself i would be happy but it seems to have limitless possibilities. Will post pics when it is done. I also am pleased to have the ability to check AFR and I/C output temp for hot summer days. We are going to check the accuracy of the gage against mechanical gages although based on the components used we are fairly confident this is the ticket.

frayed

Update:

Whoever was in the motor was a complete slob. A myriad of things were wrong with the assembly, from excess sealant, to stripped bolts, bolts over-torqued, undertorqued, or replaced with non OEM bolts of the wrong grade. Turbo hoses crushed and leaking. The cylinders and pistons were indexed, but not put back together in the right positions. Several cylinders were ground with an abrasive, decreasing their height and screwing up tq settings across each bank of cylinders. Several the gears damaged with pawl. The gears on timing chains not aligned causing excessive wear and need to be replaced.

In his shop, my tech had 5 aircooled motors in various stages of being rebuilt. He's been working on Porsches for 29 years and knows his stuff. He showed me the parts on a 140k mile 2 liter motor that had never been cracked, as a reference for what these parts should look like. The wear and damage on my parts were very obvious in comparison.

We otherwise would not bother with the bottom end, but I'm having him go in b/c we can tell the case had been split. Need to make sure whatever hack mechanic screwed up the top end, didn't screw up the bottom end.
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Anyway, the motor will be back to factory spec with just a few tweaks: ported/polished head with matched intake (36mm I think). It will get factory parts with the exception of ARP hardware.

I'm also having the LSD rebuilt b/c it's shot, and adding a LTW flywheel package. Plan on keeping the K27S turbo and B&B exhaust.

While it's in there, I thinking of packaging up the seats and sending to heritage trim for new leather, new foam, and sport seat conversion, and having the carpeting replaced.

After all that, the stereo needs work. I have nice PPI amps in the boot, but the head unit and speakers need attention.

I'm more pissed at myself than anyone else for not taking the time to pick my car more carefully. However, it doesn't sour my interest in these cars. They are, after all, pretty goddamn cool and a lot of fun.

DJF1

So the question that pops in my mind is what did the previous owner say about this???
Good luck to you...