Sal 965

I have searched and can't find an answer to my problem even in JamesE's comprehensive refurbishment post which inspired this whole idea.

I'm stripping down a set of 993RS speedlines and i've removed all of the bolts and the centre piece but can not separate the rear dish from the front lip due to the heavy duty silicone sealant which has been applied (presumably at and earlier refurbishment).

I have tried cutting through the sealant with a blade but there is too much in depth and it must be also between the faces of the rims (behind the bolt holes) acting as a glue. I feel that if i can get enough off then i should be able to separate them by sliding a blade between the faces but i need help getting to that point.

So, after that long wided start, is there a way of melting or softening the silicone sealant by either heat of chemicals to allow easy removal? Or does anyone have any general tips (bar the obvious that i should have left it to the pros - i thought this would be a good learning exercise

John McM

Not sure I can visualise exactly where the issue is, but would floss or fishing line get in there?

nathanUK '81 930 G50

I know that you can buy silcone remover/eater from DIY stores but I don't see that it will get into the joint

Maybe try it anyway.

John, it will be the area where the bolts are, approx 1" wide all the way round.

Sal 965

John,

I was thinking piano wire to slice the two parts apart but first i need to get rid of the 'bulk' of the sealant.

Where JamesE's seal behind the valve in the picture is black mine is grey and looks to be twice as wide and three times deeper. I've seen better around bathroom suites If i get a chance i'll take a pic tomorrow so you feel my pain

graeme36s

Piano wire or a very sharp blade seems to be the best idea. Once you break the initial seal they should come apart fairly easily. When I refurbed my speedlines the first time I was advised to use silicone sealant. They leaked like hell so I had to re do them using stickaflex. Perfect job.

Ag02M5

That looks like the original rubber gasket seal used on all speedlines. They are pretty expensive to replace so the previous owner may have just siliconed the hell out of it. Or maybe he was getting leaks and as said before, siliconed the hell out of it. Even with the original non-sticking seals I had a tough time separating one of my rims.

No personal experience but lots from google "Commercially lye dissolved in tetra hydro furan is used to remove cured silicon rubber. this is extremely nasty stuff and will probably dissolve the plastic frame. I have personally disassembled tanks for repair by dragging a double edged razor blade through the seam with a pair of vise grip pliers."

Good luck. I have found the whole project to be much more work than anticipated. I think it will be worth it.

jim dorociak

As Ryan said, that black gasket is the original rubber gasket that seals. It may have been sealed during assembly when someone used the old gasket because of expense to get a new one. When I disassembled my last two sets of Speedline wheels there was absolutely now silicone sealent between the rim halves, the aluminum crush ring that the black rubber gasket you are looking at and the other outer rim half. I got on top of a piece of carpeting to protect the fast and used a rubber hammer to gently but firmly tap all around the center. The center drops through to the inside upon disassembly. I also stood the wheel and gently tapped on the inner hoop where the tire seals, but be careful as too much force could bend this outer rim half. Remember you are mostly tapping on the face of the center to break it free. Good luck. Jim

JamesE

I had to use a rubber hammer on mine.

I think the picture above is actually of my wheel???

cobalt

Once you get them apart you might need some of the info from here about half way down.

http://shop.fvd.de/?VID=124489&VCD=9...=Spare%20Parts

Turbohead

There is a gasket made from rubber between and the the silicone is put over it to seal it..
I would cut the edge of the silicone with a razor and pry apart.

BTW
bolts should torqued at 18lbs when you re assemble

Sal 965

Looks like no gaskets but PLENTY of sealant/silicone to fill the gap.

Is there a way of melting or dissolving sealant/silicone?

nathanUK '81 930 G50

What's wrong with the DIY stuff I mentioned? Haver you tried it or know anyone that has?

cobalt

My business got hit by lightning yesterday and I have to replace several motors that were damaged. One of them had silicone all over the mounting bolts and connections for some reason. We could not cut through it quickly enough so we tried a large knife that was garbage we sharpened it and heated it with a torch. Cut through like butter.

Might be worth a try, but it all depends what product was used.

Sal 965

Looked at a Unibond product at B&Q but it said not to use with alloy but didn't say why and the website wasn't any clearer.

Got more of the bulk off with a cutter piece for the dremel but have not managed to split any of the the rims off any of the back dishes yet.

Off to the builders merchants tomorrow for some "silicone eater"!!!!

JamesE

How about one of those survival saws, the ones that are wire with rough edges. That should cut through it.