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Removal of secondary air injection/smog

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Old 07-14-2008, 06:24 PM
  #31  
Metal Guru
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Originally Posted by Ag02M5
The only thing I had to put a cap on was at the throttle body. Everything else connected to the system somehow and all came off without a hitch.
+1
Also, spray the injectors with Kroil or PB Blaster and let sit overnight. That will minimize the chance of a seized injector tearing up the threads (ask me how I know ).

Last edited by Metal Guru; 06-07-2018 at 10:33 AM.
Old 07-14-2008, 08:03 PM
  #32  
maverick
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[QUOTE=Ag02M5;4342951]Passing emissions is not an issue for me

Ryan what's your secret? Mine is due in August and I have tried in the past and failed the N2 test.
Old 07-14-2008, 08:18 PM
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Ag02M5
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Originally Posted by maverick

Ryan what's your secret? Mine is due in August and I have tried in the past and failed the N2 test.
PM me or give me a call.

RT
Old 07-15-2008, 03:34 AM
  #34  
biglicks
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I successfully managed to get this system off; see my other thread for weight savings. To blank off the cat I used the nut from the old cat air connection and put a 10cents (euros) coins inside and refitted this to the cat. Perfect fit and about the cheapest mod I think I'll ever do!!

Steve
Old 06-05-2018, 10:39 PM
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wicks
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Do people just remove the belt from the smog pump to rid any power starvation from running the pump? I'm worried the CIS has the pump/air injection system included in how it "thinks", so shutting it down might cause a running issue.
Old 06-06-2018, 12:50 AM
  #36  
heliolps2
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Originally Posted by wicks
Do people just remove the belt from the smog pump to rid any power starvation from running the pump? I'm worried the CIS has the pump/air injection system included in how it "thinks", so shutting it down might cause a running issue.
IMO I think removing the emissions stuff and air pump can effect the cold start and idle mixture, If you remove all this stuff you will need to adjust the fuel mixtures, on a 965 it's a pain unlike a 930 which is much easier.
Old 06-06-2018, 12:56 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Regarding emissions. The air pump only works at startup cold temperatures. Its purpose was to dilute the mixture upon start up to reduce the amount of emissions the car gave off when cold. Once warm the air was vented out of the engine instead of mixing with the exhaust gases. In the 90's they used this pump to spool up the turbo to keep it on boost even at lower rpms for racing. Not very economical approach but effective.
I did not know this part, This proves that the emission parts has no effect on performance, accept for maybe a little drag on the engine from the air pump.
Old 06-06-2018, 02:08 AM
  #38  
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So then...where's the kit to mod the pump to spin the turbo???
Old 06-06-2018, 03:07 PM
  #39  
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Anyone know if no belt (pump not turning) could still affect cold start or any other running of the car? I'm thinking I should replace my belt to make it work again...
Old 06-07-2018, 10:32 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by wicks
So then...where's the kit to mod the pump to spin the turbo???
Your joking, right?
Actually, at changeover, the injection air is redirected from the exhaust ports to the cat.
The problem I found with the injection header is that condensation that sat in it perforated it pretty badly. With as much as I play with my engine, I didn't want the spaghetti tangle of hoses in my way so it's all gone.
Now if I owned an uber expensive 3.6, I'd have to keep that unsightly mess in place
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Old 07-20-2022, 10:33 PM
  #41  
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Want to finally remove this stuff. Can all the air hoses and the two valve cans all really come out? What a dream. What do people do with the mounting bracket for the o2 sensor coupling that's on top of the air pump? I'm looking at an M64.50 (3.6t)

Last edited by wicks; 07-20-2022 at 10:47 PM.
Old 07-21-2022, 04:13 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by wicks
Want to finally remove this stuff. Can all the air hoses and the two valve cans all really come out? What a dream. What do people do with the mounting bracket for the o2 sensor coupling that's on top of the air pump? I'm looking at an M64.50 (3.6t)
Yes, the two divertor valves come out. You need to plug any hoses that are not identified as being removed, above. There's not many in all honesty. Are you removing the injection spider pipework from under the car? You will want a set of blanking plugs which screw into the heads beneath the exhaust ports.

I used a (steel) wheel nut to blank the cat air injection port on my car bypass.

Careful with the spider work, the nut sections of the pipework that need to be backed out of the heads are pretty fine, and it will be easy to destroy them if they are seized (ask me how I know).

Things are much cleaner without all the crap in place.

Last edited by Megatron-UK; 07-21-2022 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 07-21-2022, 01:45 PM
  #43  
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Appreciate that advice about the nuts on the A/I pipes... yes have the plug screws. What do people do with the bracket on top the air pump holding the connectors?
Old 07-21-2022, 02:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wicks
Appreciate that advice about the nuts on the A/I pipes... yes have the plug screws. What do people do with the bracket on top the air pump holding the connectors?
I left the retaining bar in and stabilized it with a flat aluminum bar. This is bolted to the existing stud for the ground strap in the engine compartment.







Last edited by fritz k.; 07-21-2022 at 02:41 PM.
Old 07-21-2022, 04:09 PM
  #45  
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Ahh interesting thanks for that. Now I’m wondering how those couplings are held on euro cars (if they didn’t have the A/I? Maybe there’s a bracket and I might also go so far as to change other bits like the engine tin with the hole and vac fittings so that it’s like the secondary air was never there.


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