best way to run piping for boost gage.
#1
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I have an Andial boost gage that I was planning on installing. I have the gage and the air vent where it mounts to the left of the steering wheel. I also have the 1/16" hose. My question is which is the most direct and acurate route to run the piping and where should I tap into the system to get the most accurate reading?
The other option is buying an AFmeter and replacing the boost gage using the Andial air vent mounting braket.
The other option is buying an AFmeter and replacing the boost gage using the Andial air vent mounting braket.
#3
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Originally Posted by underpsi
colbalt, u may be interested in the blownsix design gauge which they have in the works. i believe it's a 4 in 1 gauge which replaces our clock locations.
Not familiar with this any links or info?
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Thanks,
I like the looks of their I/C's especially since they use a Cobalt blue 94 as a backdrop.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks Like a great all inclusive unit. If it replaces the clock with a clock and all the necessary warning lights and meters I am in for sure.
I like the looks of their I/C's especially since they use a Cobalt blue 94 as a backdrop.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks Like a great all inclusive unit. If it replaces the clock with a clock and all the necessary warning lights and meters I am in for sure.
Last edited by cobalt; 09-11-2006 at 01:49 PM.
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I ran boost hose from engine bay at rear down along box until the observation / hole where the rubber grommit usually is placed to undoe mount bolt ( on a c4) rear of the handbrake lever under the little tray that sits there. Drill a small hole and pull up from underneath the car into the interior, run along tunnel console beside the shifter and up past accelerometers (if a 965T had them) into the under side of the dash and up to the guage.
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#8
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Anthony,
Tee off the throttle body. run hose back on driver's side through harness rubber strain relief on rear fire wall..
Run under door sill trim and up under dash.to left vent. Easy and very accurate VDO mechanical unit.
Don't know about the blown six unit but I bet the wiring is complicated.
regards,
Elliot
Tee off the throttle body. run hose back on driver's side through harness rubber strain relief on rear fire wall..
Run under door sill trim and up under dash.to left vent. Easy and very accurate VDO mechanical unit.
Don't know about the blown six unit but I bet the wiring is complicated.
regards,
Elliot
#9
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[QUOTE=cobalt]Thanks,
I like the looks of their I/C's especially since they use a Cobalt blue 94 as a backdrop.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks Like a great all inclusive unit. If it replaces the clock with a clock and all t
he necessary warning lights and meters I am in for sure.[/QUOT]
cobalt, i have a prototec 2 bar boost guage where the clock formerly lived, it was moved to the passenger side footwell with all of the idiot lights. the a/f gauge is a greddy and is mounted horizontally on the console. the bottom line is i moved my tach, rotated it so that +/- 6100 is at the 12 noon position and with 700 rwh + the only thing that i have a chance at viewing is the tach! i also have an i.c. in/out temperature guage, also horizontally mounted on the console. it can vary as much as 40 degrees +/- and is worthwhile viewing prior to a hard run. another bottom line is audible signals seem to be the only way to go, in the "heat of battle" i haven't had the time to look at guages! good luck, tjn/vk
I like the looks of their I/C's especially since they use a Cobalt blue 94 as a backdrop.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Looks Like a great all inclusive unit. If it replaces the clock with a clock and all t
he necessary warning lights and meters I am in for sure.[/QUOT]
cobalt, i have a prototec 2 bar boost guage where the clock formerly lived, it was moved to the passenger side footwell with all of the idiot lights. the a/f gauge is a greddy and is mounted horizontally on the console. the bottom line is i moved my tach, rotated it so that +/- 6100 is at the 12 noon position and with 700 rwh + the only thing that i have a chance at viewing is the tach! i also have an i.c. in/out temperature guage, also horizontally mounted on the console. it can vary as much as 40 degrees +/- and is worthwhile viewing prior to a hard run. another bottom line is audible signals seem to be the only way to go, in the "heat of battle" i haven't had the time to look at guages! good luck, tjn/vk
#10
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Originally Posted by Turbohead
Anthony,
run hose back on driver's side through harness rubber strain relief on rear fire wall..
run hose back on driver's side through harness rubber strain relief on rear fire wall..
Originally Posted by Turbohead
Don't know about the blown six unit but I bet the wiring is complicated.
regards,
Elliot
regards,
Elliot
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tjn,
I understand what you are saying. I have my gages turned the same way. Even at considerably less hp I find their is little time to look at anything but the tach. I opted for the vent location because it is far easier to see than on the lower console and I don't want to loose my clock and stuff it behind the dash for a boost gage. Who needs the factory gage all you can do is see it hit .7 and then if the WG doesn't open soon after think twice. It would be great if someone could figure out how to modify the factory gage.
#11
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Anthony,
The harness comes through on the drivers side rear seat under carpet edge to the ECUs under drivers seat.
You could also bring it up through the center tunnel .
My guy in Stamford could do it for you and wire up the light. (2hrs )You could also get on his dyno, and I can show you all the CIS and ez 69 components that I have for the 3.6 T.
Elliot
The harness comes through on the drivers side rear seat under carpet edge to the ECUs under drivers seat.
You could also bring it up through the center tunnel .
My guy in Stamford could do it for you and wire up the light. (2hrs )You could also get on his dyno, and I can show you all the CIS and ez 69 components that I have for the 3.6 T.
Elliot
#14
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Originally Posted by Turbohead
Anthony,
The harness comes through on the drivers side rear seat under carpet edge to the ECUs under drivers seat.
You could also bring it up through the center tunnel .
My guy in Stamford could do it for you and wire up the light. (2hrs )You could also get on his dyno, and I can show you all the CIS and ez 69 components that I have for the 3.6 T.
Elliot
The harness comes through on the drivers side rear seat under carpet edge to the ECUs under drivers seat.
You could also bring it up through the center tunnel .
My guy in Stamford could do it for you and wire up the light. (2hrs )You could also get on his dyno, and I can show you all the CIS and ez 69 components that I have for the 3.6 T.
Elliot
Thanks,
I looked into it and am almost done. I wired the light to a switched line so I always have light in that dark corner. Even in the day it can be hard to see.
I just need to run the hose back to the engine bay. My seats are out as I am expecting some Sparco Milano Prestige seats in Black leather soon. Fixing all the little PITA things at once.
I will be at Pocono this weekend I have a Concours on the 24th, West point on the 30th and Washington DC on the 7th. After that I might be free to see what is going on. I hope to open up my schedule but we are hitting record sales this year and it looks like it may double next year so I guess I have to make money instead of play.
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#15
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Originally Posted by cobalt
Who needs the factory gage all you can do is see it hit .7 and then if the WG doesn't open soon after think twice. It would be great if someone could figure out how to modify the factory gage.