Turbohead

I started the fuel conversion. So far pretty easy with my Tech.
A lot of CIS stuff comes off !!
Going to use Haltech
Elliot

C2 Turbo

Is that U Pal ( elliot ) ? and btw i am digging that estoril blue 2 door E 36 ///M3 in the back ground...

schnele

Why did you choose Haltech, I do not mean to opugn or second guess, just an innocuous question.

Geoffrey

Which model Haltech?

Turbohead

YS
He is the tech and really good, This shop is my buddy's George and they do a lot of BMW 's from all over .Specializing in foreced induction (iscperformance.com)
Would you believe the built an E36 over 1000rwp it is in the European Car magazine july issue.

schnele
I chose Haltech after some research and felt that they are very reliable and my tech knows them really well. they do others on the BMW . since I'm going to do fuel only at this time haltech seemed easier to migrate to ignition later .

Goeffry,
The Haltech is an e11v2,
It was fun meeting you at lime rock and you got good marks as an instructor. I still may need your help on this project.( like what is the best place to locate the coolant sensor??)

I'll keep you posted on progress.
Elliot

Staffan

Keep the information and pictures coming!
I am very interested to learn about a project like this and I know I'm not alone.

Would be very interesting to hear about what parts you are using for this.

slownrusty

Looks awesome...you got me interested...hope to hear more progress and load of pics!

Yasin

Turbohead

Fuel lines,fuel filter and adjustable pressure reguator in.
Wiring tis weekend.
BTW

icspeformance.com is the correct address.
Elliot

Geoffrey

Who's injector block kit did you use? They look like a nice setup, although the braided lines and routing could use some help.

I also think that not integrating the ignition system into the Haltech is a mistake. You need only to replace the EZ box with an MSD 6A unit and retain the rest of the ignition components. Ignition timing is where the power, drivability, and throttle response comes from.

Miles965uk

Great stuff man! Thats what I like to see get rid of that CIS stuff. I am right behind you! Expect I am doing the ignition first then onto the fuel.

Same q about the blocks and why for any reason as there are a few about...

Doesnt Haltech do a direct fire for the stock coil?- I ask this because its real simple if thats the case... however you will need either put on a 60-2 RS flywheel or whack a custom one on the pulley for the signal.

Also the EZ does the tach FYI, so you will have to get Haltech to do it instead

Good luck and keep us posted

Geoffrey

The Haltech E11v2 will do sequential ignition so it supports 6 ignition outputs. It can also output the proper signal to run the tachometer.

Turbohead

Hi Miles,
Goeffry,
The injector blocks are 38mm and rails are Pat williams racing very well made (look like jewelry).

From what you are saying all i need is the msd 6 and still stay with the oem distributor and coil.for now Is that is correct ???

Wire harness is already pulled. (spagetti city) UGH !

Geoffrey

The Pat Williams injector blocks seem to be one of the best choices out there. I believe Bob Holcombe may do the machining for Pat and he makes some very nice equipment. I've tuned about 4 cars with the Pat Williams injector blocks with no issues.

Yes, factory distributor, spark plug wires, coil, but replace the EZ box with an MSD 6A. There is nothing wrong with using a distributor and, for the most part, I personally prefer a distributor over wasted spark coil packs and CDI ignition over inductive.

Don't forget to have them upgrade to the latest version of firmware and software. This allows a PID algorithm for boost control rather than the duty cycle method the older software has. Then you can install a dash mounted rotary **** for adjustable boost control. Also, the Haltech has the ability to run 2 separate maps, so if you are wanting to run high boost, you may consider a 100 octane map and a 93 octane street map. In addition, you can get the uego controller which allows direct input of a Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensor directly into the Haltech for display, logging, and closed loop control (not recommended, but possible). I'd also definately install an idle air control valve which can be connected to one of the PWM outputs for closed loop idle control. If your car still has A/C, have them install the A/C circuit so the engine increases RPM just like the factory when the A/C is turned on and loads the engine at idle. Other things you can take advantage of would be a dash mounted shift light which you can integrate into your dash cluster with a simple LED.

Turbohead

Geoffrey,
You are the best!
1 OK where can I buy the MSD 6 now!
2 Do I need the one with the tach pick up? Shouldn't I also buy the MSD blaster coil (supposedly 40,000 volts)
3 I have an E Boost EBC controlling a TIAL working great with CIS shouldn't leave that alone to controll boost?
4. I have the Haltech trim module which I was going to program for fuel AFR so that when i go to emmisiions it can lean it out to pass since I run on the emmissions dyno in practice mode.( I did get it past with the CIS)
5 Where can I get the shift light Haltech is out of stock.
6 Won't it work with out the Idle stabilizer ? and if not what type to get and where?

I want you to meet my buddy and see his shop you could do a lot with him.( an hour away from you)
Thanks
Elliot

Geoffrey

1) Anywhere - Summit Racing is a good source
2) The 6A comes with a tach output which you can use to drive your tach, or use one of the Haltech outputs and define it for a PWM tach output. You want the 6A, not 6AL which has an integrated rev limiter which causes confusion with the ECU rev limit controller.
3) I will always recommend the ECU to control boost. That way it can do things like limit the boost if the engine temp or air temp is too high. In other words, you can program in safeguards into the ECU program to keep the engine from being destroyed.
4) The Trim module is nothring more than a black box with a pot in it. I built one from Radio Shack parts. You don't need to use it for emissions testing. Emissions testing is done at light throttle cruise and at idle. So, your program should be written so that it runs clean under those conditions all the time. There is no need for extremely rich mixtures there.
5) I'd just use a small LED. I have some nicely packaged ones built for 12v if you can't find what you are looking for. Drop me a line.
6) Yes, the engine will work without the idle air control valve, however, when the engine is cold, it will either a) not want to idle, or b) idle at 500-600rpm. You need the IAC to increase the idle speed while the engine is cold. I use a standard Bosch one.

I believe they may have called in the past about doing some dyno tuning. They have some 500hp turbo M3s running around?

You'll also find that if you run sequential injection, the 911 engine is fairly responsive to changes in injection timing and you can improve fuel economy and throttle response by optimizing the table.