pzull

appreciate if you could list the needed mods and their effect. cheers

eyue

Yellow pagid brakes pads, racing brakes fluid, stainless steel brake line all installed. Those pads makes sharp noise when cold. RS sway bars also put in. What else would you suggest Staffan. May be I should learn how to coupe with the setting rather than adding power !!

38D

Staffan - do you have any pictures of your brake cooling setup? I really would like to do something on my car, but have not found any kits available.

lwilkins

Shorter gears will help keep you on boost, rather than waiting for it. Our cars have stock gearing to reach 200 mph (in a vacuum). If you shortened the gearing to a mere 150-160 or so, that would be plenty for most purposes. It's the spacing of the gears that is the biggest issue. I'd suggest spacing 1-4 a lot closer together, and keeping a wider space for 5th, too allow highway cruising at a low enough rpm. I've done this in a 94 3.6 turbo (except my 5th was too low), and it transformed the car.

Staffan

I would like to do this aswell, I know Vince5 will make this happen this winter.
Found a shop that will be able to deliver a 4.0 final drive, either that or I change 2nd to 5th gear.

Vince5

No problem. I am far from done, I take it by small increments each winter.

Weight reduction - after this winter I should be near 330lbs lighter than the original weight. This is the list of what was removed, sound insulation material, some of the carpets are now the thinner RS material, air injection system compressor and pipes, muffler, rear heater blowers, radio, airbags, race seats, removed the rear seats, clim compressor and pipes, soon LWFW, ligher 3,8 type rear wing, and plastic rear windows and may be RS side windows (part of this winter project)

I used 18 inch wheels, 235s 285s.
3,6Turbo brakes front, yellow pagid with cooling ducts and steel lines
Suspension is H&R cup kit (no idea about the variables) it's not adjustable just plain stupid hard. Works well in dry conditions
Uniball for upper suspension mounts
Full roll cage and 6 point harness.

The engine is almost stock just 0,85b, car graphics race cat and after market BOV.


I did the brake upgrades 1st to feel confident and it's a good investment. Not that the original setup is not enough, it's just that knowing you have good brakes allows you to focus on other aspects of your driving.

I did safety things, part of the weight reduction and the engine upgrade second. I don't want to push the engine more so far for several reasons. 1st I want to fit in one of the local Porsche club racing categories, 2nd I want to play it safe since I dedicated the car to the track it's being pushed hard, 3rd I am waiting for the engine rebuild to do the whole package

Then I did suspension, bigger wheels and more weight reduction. Suspension cut my lap times significantly when I got used to it.

This winter the goal is transmission and more weight reduction. A 2nd hand 993 6speed gear box is my 1st option with LWFW a new clutch. Should take care of the turbo lag. Next year may be the engine ? Depends on how much money is left after the summer

Staffan

I bought the ducts that replace the whole fog light, no kit just the air ducts.
The problem is to find a hose that doesn't cost 50usd per yard, I found something that are being used for kitchen fans, worked for two years going to replace it with something better this year.

You need to do some cutting in your car, behind the fog lights, mudguard and protection shield for oil cooler and ac condensor.

It's pretty straight forward on the right side, the left side is a nightmare, I actually decided to ditch my AC after struggeling for a couple of hours.
Have a look at the DIY below from www.p-car.com.
http://p-car.com/diy/coolingduct/

I connected the hose to the brake caliper, using 2 hose clamps connected around the bolts holding the caliper in place.

Staffan

Here is the graph showing the difference between stock K27 and HF turbo.
Blue dots are HF turbo.
Pink dots are stock K27 turbo.
Boost in PSI on the Y-axle and RPM is on the X-axle.
Both tests are done at the same spot accelerating trough 2nd and 3rd gear.

Staffan

Tough question.
For me it's very easy, I have invested about 1.000 hours in my car, I passed the point of no return long time ago. I will keep developing my car to the ultimate track car. Did a few things to reduce lag, will get shorter gears for next season. For now I learned to live with it and don't fight it. It means full throttle way before apex at certain places on the track, it feels like a bad thing to do but it works.

As Vince5 pointed out, these cars can be really fast around the track.
Nothing beats passing a GT3 with a good driver.
Probably much cheaper to get a race ready 964 Cup but there is something special with at turbo....

rstarga

I'm running stock headers no muffler and no cat. Both were replaced by straight thru pipes. Also 1 bar spring. With stock turbo i've almost no lag. Its not really loud , great burble at idle. Inside it is not to loud to still hear the stereo.

Kevin

Staffan, FYI, you might want to check your turbocharger for damage to the turbine wheel. Since you purchased that turbocharger 2nd hand, the turbocharger that came off the same car ate, the 7200 turbine wheel..

eyue

Youe're all specialist...Staffan / Vince5. ! I have a lot ot learn about the car.............

Vince5

Staffan knows a lot, I just drive the thing
Drop me a pm if you want some videos

DrJupeman

Are you suggesting there is something wrong with it based on the graphs he posted?

Staffan

Hi Kevin, not sure I follow, what do you mean?