Looking at potential '92 C2 turbo purchase
05-20-2005, 02:53 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Final update on this car:
Compression test performed and failed. I'll pass on this car. I'm not even concerned about the other "issues" at this point. I have to think of my $270 spent well instead of buying it and paying that amount many, many times over in ownership for things overlooked.
Thanks everyone for your input and help. Turbohead and I will be speaking on Monday and I'll see about a flight to meet up with him and look at his black beast.
Have a good weekend everyone.
Compression test performed and failed. I'll pass on this car. I'm not even concerned about the other "issues" at this point. I have to think of my $270 spent well instead of buying it and paying that amount many, many times over in ownership for things overlooked.
Thanks everyone for your input and help. Turbohead and I will be speaking on Monday and I'll see about a flight to meet up with him and look at his black beast.
Have a good weekend everyone.
05-20-2005, 03:02 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Y.S
Just remember these cars are almost 14 years old now and to find one thats in flawless condition is not going to happen.
Good luck with finding a car Alon, take your time.
05-20-2005, 05:21 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Henning964Turbo
The car in my garage(bought in april) is evidence of the opposite. Nothing wrong with it, just about perfect. It all depends on the previous owners.
Good luck with finding a car Alon, take your time.
Good luck with finding a car Alon, take your time.
Well let me rephrase what i said earlier " finding a 1991/1992 C2 turbo thats flawless is NOT going to be EASY easy and Cheap " and having said that could you please tell us something about your purchase and the price you paid for it ? How about some picts ?
05-20-2005, 05:31 PM
#34
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VIN: WPOZZZ96ZMS472258
The price was 475 000 norwegian kroner, which is about 60 000 euro. Cars arnt cheap here in norway.
The colour is metallic green, very dark. It has 80 000 km`s, and the only mod afaik is that it is lowered.
Compared to our old 81` SC, this is.....
When looking at pictures of your cars here, I feel I need to really clean the car and polish it before taking some photos and putting them online. I just have a few pictures now(one taken from the rear, as my desktop bakcground, love those broad hips
), not very good.
If anyone want to put them online for me so they can be seen here, feel free to pm me(As Im a retard when it comes to such matters
)
The price was 475 000 norwegian kroner, which is about 60 000 euro. Cars arnt cheap here in norway.
The colour is metallic green, very dark. It has 80 000 km`s, and the only mod afaik is that it is lowered.
Compared to our old 81` SC, this is.....
When looking at pictures of your cars here, I feel I need to really clean the car and polish it before taking some photos and putting them online. I just have a few pictures now(one taken from the rear, as my desktop bakcground, love those broad hips
), not very good. If anyone want to put them online for me so they can be seen here, feel free to pm me(As Im a retard when it comes to such matters
)
Last edited by Henning964Turbo; 05-20-2005 at 07:58 PM.
05-21-2005, 04:04 AM
#35
05-21-2005, 09:21 AM
#36
Originally Posted by Alon
Final update on this car:
I have to think of my $270 spent well
I have to think of my $270 spent well
I'm still confused about this PPI. When I spoke to 2 different Porsche dealers when I was buying my car, I was told that in order to do a leakdown and compression test aka "PPI", the engine needs to be removed from the car on the 964T. According to the dealers this is a pretty major deal and is very involved. Since this is a 10-15 hr job, the best price I got was over $1500 for labor to perform this.
How did you get this done for $270??? Maybe someone could explain this better for me.
05-21-2005, 10:33 AM
#37
The foreman at the Porsche dealership dealer who was originally suppose to do the Compression/leakdown test on my car said the exact same thing " engine has to come out " so it was never done.However as soon as i realized that,i contacted another dealership and sure enough it was done WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR and i think it was around $300.
I suppose you won't be taking your car back to that dealership now or would you ?
I suppose you won't be taking your car back to that dealership now or would you ?
05-21-2005, 04:52 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
hi Alon,
I don't think you would have an overboost condition with just a 1 Bar spring and stock exhaust. Ususally headers will do it if it has too small diameter pipe to the tiurbo. More than likely there is a problem with the wastegate I E diaphram could be leaking.or could have been damaged when spring was installed.
As far as the clutch goes, a hard pedal ususally means the clutch has been slipped alot and got overheated ,the fingers (wihch are like springs) lose their resiliance from the exteme heat as descrbed.
best regards
Elliot
I don't think you would have an overboost condition with just a 1 Bar spring and stock exhaust. Ususally headers will do it if it has too small diameter pipe to the tiurbo. More than likely there is a problem with the wastegate I E diaphram could be leaking.or could have been damaged when spring was installed.
As far as the clutch goes, a hard pedal ususally means the clutch has been slipped alot and got overheated ,the fingers (wihch are like springs) lose their resiliance from the exteme heat as descrbed.
best regards
Elliot
05-22-2005, 12:13 AM
#39
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The engine does not need to be removed to do a compression/leakdown - that's ridiculous. It is, however, difficult and requires several hours of labor. Depending on shop rates, $300 - $500 is about right for a thorough PPI.
05-22-2005, 04:26 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Henning,
Looks like Amazon Green, is the color code 39a? Very nice and clean car. Good luck with it.
Looks like Amazon Green, is the color code 39a? Very nice and clean car. Good luck with it.
05-23-2005, 10:09 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
The paint code is above the battery under the carpeting in the front left side. If it says 39a which I am 90% sure it will it is Amazon Green. Great color, it turns different colors depending on the light. Anywhere from blackish to blue, teal and bright green depending on sun and angle. I would go and buy some touch up paint ASAP. These paints have been discontinued for over 10 years and touch up paint is becoming difficult to get.
05-25-2005, 01:56 AM
#44
Labor for Compression/Leakdown
I just finished my first valve adjustment on my 965 race car. I'd always wondered why my shop said the engine should be "dropped" (note that they did not say "removed") for a valve adjustment. Now that I have done one, I would respect that opinion.
I think the compression test and leakdown can be done with the engine in the car. Not easy, but possible. I started to do a leakdown to establish a baseline on the newly rebuilt engine, but ran out of time before track date and postponed the leakdown to a date with more time to tinker. I'd done this procedure on my early 911 race car, and could see this would be much more difficult in the 965 than in the 911, due to clearance issues.
I don't see why the compression or leakdown test REQUIRES an engine drop, but I can sure see now why if you are doing both a valve adjustment (requiring access to both intake and exhaust) and a leakdown or compression, it would be much, much easier to do with some additional space provided by an engine drop.
If you do the compression or leakdown, and it checks out and you are sure that you are going to buy the car, I'd probably authorize the shop to drop the engine and do the valve adjustment if they recommended it at that point. And, of course, if it had run around 8-10k miles or more since the last valve adjustment.
Good luck. These are incredible machines and worth the effort, IMO.
I think the compression test and leakdown can be done with the engine in the car. Not easy, but possible. I started to do a leakdown to establish a baseline on the newly rebuilt engine, but ran out of time before track date and postponed the leakdown to a date with more time to tinker. I'd done this procedure on my early 911 race car, and could see this would be much more difficult in the 965 than in the 911, due to clearance issues.
I don't see why the compression or leakdown test REQUIRES an engine drop, but I can sure see now why if you are doing both a valve adjustment (requiring access to both intake and exhaust) and a leakdown or compression, it would be much, much easier to do with some additional space provided by an engine drop.
If you do the compression or leakdown, and it checks out and you are sure that you are going to buy the car, I'd probably authorize the shop to drop the engine and do the valve adjustment if they recommended it at that point. And, of course, if it had run around 8-10k miles or more since the last valve adjustment.
Good luck. These are incredible machines and worth the effort, IMO.
05-25-2005, 02:33 AM
#45
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If you do the compression or leakdown, and it checks out and you are sure that you are going to buy the car, I'd probably authorize the shop to drop the engine and do the valve adjustment if they recommended it at that point. And, of course, if it had run around 8-10k miles or more since the last valve adjustment.