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Looking at potential '92 C2 turbo purchase

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Old 05-06-2005, 01:00 PM
  #16  
Turbohead
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Ok Alon,
You are right about Black ,I have a white one and this black one and the black is really sexy. I hate to sell it but Ihave too many P cars right now.
Let me know how it turns out for you ,and I can give your more details and history on it.
Elliot
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:30 PM
  #17  
Alon
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Well do. Thanks again.
Old 05-14-2005, 03:48 AM
  #18  
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how much for the C2 turbo. I will get the word out as much as possible. It is such an awesome machine
Old 05-14-2005, 01:11 PM
  #19  
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91 C-2 turbo (965) 3.3 50kmi
Black on Black, all options , I have orig sticker, MSRP $100,600 ,OEM Heated Sport seats, CD,and Porsche mats ,
carefully and completely serviced, very clean ,no leaks, in perfect conditiion.
Leak down and compression perfect.
I just repainted front fenders,and trunk no damage just took care of stone chips.
Tight , smooth, and very strong .
Car is and has been in storage in Conn
$42,800
Old 05-16-2005, 10:44 AM
  #20  
Alon
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Update for today:

1- It looks like my 996 40 Jahre will be sold as of tonight,
2- I am arranging to have the local 965 (white on black 1992, serial number ending in ...300) over to my local shop tomorrow (hopefully) for a complete check-over.

Hopefully, all will be well with the car otherwise, Tubohead, I'll be contacting you. Being local and already a Canadian car (for a great price), this car seems to be the right deal for me but I'll keep you posted.

I drove the car (finally) on Saturday and although ultimately not fasater than my current car, it felt exactly as it should. Hard pull when on boost the way a proper Porsche should be. It was very tight and solid feeling with rattles/creaks only from interior panels/trim pieces in the inside rear of the car. Suspension felt right and transmission was noise and clunk/crunch free. Air conditioning works and all electrics seem to be fine as well.

The only recent service itmes noted have been a replaced horn and an oil line replaced somewhere near the oil pressure sender.

This car may be in my hands by the end of this week.
Old 05-16-2005, 10:50 AM
  #21  
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Sounds like your on your way to turbo heaven. Hope it all works out. Let us know what the outcome is and I am sure we can help you with ways to improve the beast and spend your money.
Old 05-16-2005, 12:05 PM
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That black turbo is so beautiful really..
Old 05-16-2005, 02:22 PM
  #23  
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Thanks Sameer,
I hope whoever buys it appreciates it as much as I did . It is a really nice example.
prduction #620 0f 641 for USA.

Elliot
Old 05-18-2005, 08:35 AM
  #24  
Alon
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Further update (for anyone who cares):
1- my 996 is now sold and will be picked up tomorrow,
2- the local 965 is going to be inspected today or tomorrow morning at the latest

A few questions:
1- Can 964 RS/Cup sway bars be used on this car and if not, what is a viable alternative?
2- Since these cars have shocks with threaded bodies (Bilstein I assume), do most people upgrade springs only?
3- What is everyone's opinion of the Fabspeed muffler or secondary muffler bypass for these cars?

Thanks again, I can't wait.
Old 05-18-2005, 10:53 AM
  #25  
cobalt
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Originally Posted by Alon
Further update (for anyone who cares):
1- my 996 is now sold and will be picked up tomorrow,
2- the local 965 is going to be inspected today or tomorrow morning at the latest

A few questions:
1- Can 964 RS/Cup sway bars be used on this car and if not, what is a viable alternative?
2- Since these cars have shocks with threaded bodies (Bilstein I assume), do most people upgrade springs only?
3- What is everyone's opinion of the Fabspeed muffler or secondary muffler bypass for these cars?

Thanks again, I can't wait.

I will need to check the spec book on the RS sways but I believe all you gain is some adjustability with no increase in size. For the money I would pass.

The stock shocks and springs are Boge and are only threaded for slight adjustability about 1/2 inch. The US turbos run 20mm too high. There are many options open to you and most likely the shocks you have are shot as they don't last all that long between 18k to 40k depending on driving style and road conditions.

I went with the Bilstein HD's and H&R springs great for street use but not so good for track. They lower the car to euro height or lower since the Bilsteins are threaded you can chose the height you want. Most of us opt for the Euro turbo 3.6 ride height.

I have used the Secondary Muffler bypass. It adds some rumble and burble to the car. These things are too damn quiet stock. I decided to keep my car street legal otherwise I would have gone with a muffler and eliminated the cat. Most brands are good although B&B have a tendency to crack and leak over time especially if you are running higher boost. The B&B's can be welded but for the money Fabspeed makes a great product.

I recommend a set of headers and the secondary bypass over the muffler for starters.
Old 05-18-2005, 12:20 PM
  #26  
Sameer
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It's not difficult to appreciate the older turbos IMHO
Old 05-20-2005, 10:00 AM
  #27  
Alon
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OK, another update (I hope I'm not making you guys crazy):

1992 C2 Turbo was checked out yesterday and the following was found:
1- Overboost circuit was bypassed for reasons unknown,
2- clutch pedal is very heavy and sticks a bit on its way back up (needs new clutch),
3- Very small oil leak from oil tank area but the seller told me that a hose was replaced and the area may not have been cleaned after replacement,
4- clicking sound from sterring/front suspension somewhere although the steering rack seems solid and noise free (steering knuckle, joint, etc? Eibach springs moving within the perches?)
5- car pulls hard and smoothly and the body/chassis seems very solid
6- all electrics and other systems are working well. A/C is good
7- rear rotors have been cut once and are probably thin and could need replacing

Any suggestions and or thoughts?
Old 05-20-2005, 11:00 AM
  #28  
cobalt
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I would be concerned about the overboost circuit being bypassed. To me this is one critical feature that should never be toyed with. The problem is you don't know why it was done and for how long. You can only speculate why this was done and whether any damage could have occurred because of it. Have a leak down and compression test done to be sure. Do you know what spring is in the car and if not factory how long was the current spring in place? If you are serious about buying this car and the seller serious about selling, I would ask to review all the service records. If they refuse to oblige I would be a bit concerned and probably walk from the deal.

In either case I would insist that the clutch be fixed and the rotors replaced if they have less than 30% life on them.
Old 05-20-2005, 11:44 AM
  #29  
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1. Overboost protection was bypassed so the previous owner could run a 1 bar spring (what is the current boost setting now?)
2. I am not sure a sticking pedal means a new clutch, but if it does, you should negotiate this point as a new clutch is expensive. 50K miles seems early, but it depends on how the car was used under those miles. If you decide to get it replaced, move to a lightweight flywheel/clutch assembly. This is a good upgrade and a good time to check some of the other transmission components for wear. Since it was all apart, I changed gear ratios and installed steel synchros
3. No big deal
4. Who knows. A 13 year old car is going to make some noises. If the shocks have not been replaced in that time, you can bet on having to do that soon. This is also a good time for an upgrade.
5. That's good. They checked for overspray, etc.? What were the leakdown test results?
6. That's good too
7. Normal

Overall it seems good. Try to negotiate the clutch - $1000 would seem fair. The leakdown test is one of the most important parts of the PPI - without those numbers it is hard to say "go for it"
Old 05-20-2005, 11:50 AM
  #30  
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Alon,
Just remember these cars are almost 14 years old now and to find one thats in flawless condition is not going to happen.I agree with Anthony in getting
1)-Compression/leakdown done to see if the overboost has compromised the engine longivety or not ?
2)-Clutch usually costs $1200-$1500 installed so it's not cheap
3)-Ask about the 15,000 miles service and if not done yet then figure another $1500 and i guess clutch can be done at the same time.
3)-Rotors at $280/each are certainly not cheap on these cars figure in pads and labor and you are out another $1300
Having said that,once the car is sorted out,one drive on the highway and you'll forget all the $$$$ pain that you have just spent on the car.


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