How much is a used K27 worth?
#1
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I'm pondering the upgrade to a K27HF. (Advice welcome)
How much could I sell my K27 for? Has anyone sold theirs to the 930 crowd?
How much could I sell my K27 for? Has anyone sold theirs to the 930 crowd?
#2
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I assume that you have 7006? When things slow down in the winter, I will be taking orders to convert K27's that are in good shape to High Flows...
#4
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I have seen a few sell on Ebay for around $550-$675 used.
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Originally Posted by Kevin
I assume that you have 7006? When things slow down in the winter, I will be taking orders to convert K27's that are in good shape to High Flows...
#6
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I'll try to answer most of the questions with this post. Usually people will upgrade to the High Flow when either they have a tired K27 or K26/3LDZ... Most K27's that I have seen require serious repair to them, to make them whole. There is a bad wrap for rebuilding KKK turbochargers, for failing quickly after a rebuild.. The reason is that many times corners are cut in the rebuild process... One unique quality of K27 is dual sealing rings on the turbinewheel and compressor wheel. You can see in the picture the 2 sealing rings on the turbine wheel. Most wheels/turbo's that I see have over spec grooves, another words, carbon/heat has worn the width or worn a wear groove in the side wall of this sealing area. Please liken it as a worn out piston ring land area.. In most situations I can re-machine the grove and install oversized sealing rings. However in extreme cases, where one drives the car in wet of very harsh climates, we will get corosion to the shaft and sealing surface, and I will TIG weld new metal to the grove and re-machine the width to Factory spec's, thus allowing to use stock sealing rings, and bring back the wheel to spec. The newer looking turbine wheel was rewelded in the seal area. If you zoom on the picture you can see the welds and the recut of the seal area.
If you look closely to the failed turbine wheel, this wheel ran less than 6 months, the customers engine failed do to improper AFR's and debris caused FOD damage the turbine wheel tips. The sealing area will also need to be re-machined on this shaft. The blade tips will get TIG welded with Inconel...
The pictured bearing housing is very typical for East Coast turbochargers that are driven year long. The salt and rain eat the surface of the housing, this corosion will also eat the sealing area or the surface area that the sealing rings seat on. Most bearing housing will require the seal area CNC'd machined out and replaced with a new seal. Liken it as replaceing a valve seat in a cylinder head.. However, the machine work must be deadly accurate, if it isn't correct, the sealing rings will not seat and you will have a leaker from the get go..
Most turbine housings that I see have broken studs or damage threads, just like the ones shown. I will spend an hour on each stud welding nuts on them and pulling them out.. Most of the time I'm not lucky, and the stud breaks off flush and I have to work it out.. When all else fails I have to drill it out, on the Bridgeport..
This is why I will save all my cores for the winter months, and in my spare time rebuild all of the failed components back to OEM specs... One thing that I do in all of my rebuilds is to install oversized sealing rings, diameters that are larger than stock specs, and hand gap them to tighter tolerances.. This has worked well in preventing leakers.. However, heat will kill these sealing rings. If you look at the blueing on the turbine wheel, it tells us that 650-700 degrees have been present in the bearing and sealing ring areas.. If one does not allow proper cool down periods. You will kill the life of your turbocharger..
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/p1010220.jpg)
If you look closely to the failed turbine wheel, this wheel ran less than 6 months, the customers engine failed do to improper AFR's and debris caused FOD damage the turbine wheel tips. The sealing area will also need to be re-machined on this shaft. The blade tips will get TIG welded with Inconel...
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/p1010222.jpg)
The pictured bearing housing is very typical for East Coast turbochargers that are driven year long. The salt and rain eat the surface of the housing, this corosion will also eat the sealing area or the surface area that the sealing rings seat on. Most bearing housing will require the seal area CNC'd machined out and replaced with a new seal. Liken it as replaceing a valve seat in a cylinder head.. However, the machine work must be deadly accurate, if it isn't correct, the sealing rings will not seat and you will have a leaker from the get go..
Most turbine housings that I see have broken studs or damage threads, just like the ones shown. I will spend an hour on each stud welding nuts on them and pulling them out.. Most of the time I'm not lucky, and the stud breaks off flush and I have to work it out.. When all else fails I have to drill it out, on the Bridgeport..
This is why I will save all my cores for the winter months, and in my spare time rebuild all of the failed components back to OEM specs... One thing that I do in all of my rebuilds is to install oversized sealing rings, diameters that are larger than stock specs, and hand gap them to tighter tolerances.. This has worked well in preventing leakers.. However, heat will kill these sealing rings. If you look at the blueing on the turbine wheel, it tells us that 650-700 degrees have been present in the bearing and sealing ring areas.. If one does not allow proper cool down periods. You will kill the life of your turbocharger..
#7
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Kevin,
I an changing my 7006 with a new 7200. The 7006 seems to have oil pooling in the blower and causes smoke on start up. It does not smoke while driving. My question is that is this a core that you can use? What is the cost for a conversion?
I an changing my 7006 with a new 7200. The 7006 seems to have oil pooling in the blower and causes smoke on start up. It does not smoke while driving. My question is that is this a core that you can use? What is the cost for a conversion?