JBH

Miles

A few questions...
* By changes in geometry, I assume you mean the car needs to be realigned and cornerbalanced. Is this correct or did it also require changes in the mounting points?
* How did you connect the sway bar and which one did you use?
* When you say the brakes are thinner, are you talking about the rotors? Did you use the same hub?
* Did you also have to change the speed sensor?

Miles965uk

Jeffrey
- You need to do the geometry because when you take off the trailing arms they are bolted on to the camber plates and so you have to unbolt them and lose the setting- also with having a narrow arm the struts are at a slightly different angle and it effects your ride height. No changes on any mounting points though- it all bolts up.
- Oh yes I forgot - you need a NA sway bar- there are various sizes, I think like the earlier ones were the thickest, i tried to go for that but at the time I dont think there was one available. You could try an RS one as well as it adjustable
- No you cannot use the same hub - they are not interchangable - I tried it! You have to use NA hub- when I bought the used trailing arms- everything came with it- I got it on ebay. The disc thickness is 24mm vs 28mm for the turbo so youll need RS rear calipers to be 100% ok.
- Speed sensors are same as turbo and again this came with it.

Did I mention handbrake cable lenghts are shorter as well?

dholling13

It looks like a junk yard would be a good place to find all of these parts?

cobalt

Miles,

What change in feel does this mod make. I am assuming the smaller trailing arms must have a noticeable difference in feeling due to much less unsprung weight?

Turbohead

I was going to do this conversion to my 3.6T set up ,in fact I have all the parts from NA 964.
One reason I havn't done it yet is that the axels are indeed shorter ,and not strengthend as they are on the Turbo.I don't know about the RS axels.Since I have added power w/an EFI conv i thought the stonger the drive line the better.
Also the rubber bushings are at a different angle on the 3.6T ( I would go the solid mono 's anyway) so I wait till the end of this thread to know what to do!
Elliot

Geoffrey

The N/A axles are sufficient for a turbo application. The Factory Turbo LM 964 ran with N/A trailing arms and RS axles or a motorsport version which is gun drilled. I'm running these in my RSR.

Miles965uk

I wasn't worried about the axles as I have the 4wd but its good to know what Geoffrey said so they should be fine for 2WD.

You should be able to pick this stuff up at a breakers easy- keep an eye out on ebay too.

The rubber bushings are at a different angle for the ROW 3.6T but what you get in return remember is 11J or 12J rear wheels and that makes a big difference to traction - a bushing at a slightly different angle is not noticed IMO.

But you carry more weight around so - I wouldnt recomended this unless you have a fairly modified engine.

V

Digging up a very old thread here .

I looked around in the archives but never found any actual figures as to the ballpark cost of switching to NB trailing arms. Man hours and associated hardware etc? I know there are many factors but a rough estimate? Is it 5K or 10Kish?

tdarby

if you do the conversion I have wheels for sale. A set of fikse and oz that are 11 in rear. My 965 had the nb trailing arms and was able to get an 11 rear with a 315 with no problem. Conversion was done at protosport.

V

Do you remember the approximate cost of the conversion?

tim911pcar

I have the whole rear suspesion if interested. axles, arms plates.etc. Let me know if interested

pavulon

email sent.

Talat

Can't imagine that it would cost that much - the biggest cost would be the wheels I reckon. I bought a spare set of NB trailing arms + driveshafts (which didn't cost a lot) for a previous project that was abort and I'd imagine it's a simple bolt-in operation. Would be interesting to know the respective weights of the NB and WB trailing arms though.

Tuner1

I plan to do this swap in the near future. How hard can it be

-N/A trailing arms
-N/A rear sway bar
-N/A rear hubs
-N/A driveshafts or custom
-N/A e-brake cables
-964RS rear calipers (rotors?)
-Rear wheels with correct specs (11" ~ET10 ?)

Am I missing anything?

jeff91C2T

Since you asked...if one were to take on this change, consider your wheel size. You can fit a 10.5" width with 295's currently.

To do all this work and only go to an 11" width rim....

I've seen a 94 turbo with the NB arms and 12 rims running 345's. Excellent look!