Triangle of Death
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys-
How difficult (or possible) is it to replace the 3 seals in the TOD with motor in - and NOT removing the Fuel Distributor?
Thanks-
Brandon
'91 Turbo
How difficult (or possible) is it to replace the 3 seals in the TOD with motor in - and NOT removing the Fuel Distributor?
Thanks-
Brandon
'91 Turbo
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
should be possible. you remove (hang aside) climate compressor. remove air box. then you have some access to the triangle.
i think it is a pain. i would remove the whole inlet. that should save time. sounds crazy - my experience is that repairing the turbo is always the short way longer….
i think it is a pain. i would remove the whole inlet. that should save time. sounds crazy - my experience is that repairing the turbo is always the short way longer….
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks - yeah that's my hope - remove intercooler, ac compressor (move out of way) and airbox. Wasn't sure if there are any nuts or something that would still not be accessible...
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Brandon
'91 Turbo
The following users liked this post:
urquattro20Vt (11-10-2023)
#6
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I like to remove the bolts from the left and right side of the engine mount and slightly lower the engine. Yes, there is enough room to do so without disconnected anything else. This will allow you to reach the triangle and complete your mission.
Also, inspect the breather hoses for cracking, squeeze them and look for cracks, you'd be surprised how much oil vapor they put out under pressure. I also like to use a little teflon tape or paste on the oil sender, curil paste on the thermostat o-ring, and a thin coat of sealer on both surfaces of the breather gasket.
The following users liked this post:
urquattro20Vt (12-30-2023)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok I'm close - problem is there is a little black bracket that supports the corner of the fuel distributor from below that is keeping the breather cover from lifting off/over the studs. I removed three 13mm nuts but the bracket won't budge. I don't see a fourth. Am I blind? What am I missing?
Thanks in advance-
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Thanks in advance-
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The bracket is only attached with three nuts. However, it is fixed in three axes by the stud bolts so that it can only be removed if the fuel distributor is at least raised upwards a few inches. But then you can remove the distributor anyway.
In addition, the rear engine mounting (eyelet) must be removed, otherwise you cannot lift up the cover of the housing ventilation.
Fritz
In addition, the rear engine mounting (eyelet) must be removed, otherwise you cannot lift up the cover of the housing ventilation.
Fritz
The following users liked this post:
pittcock (12-30-2023)
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Fritz.
Yes that eyelet caught me by surprise - What a PITA!
Three axes? hmm. Seemed like only two to me - as there were two studs facing the back, one above the other, and one stud coming down from the FD.
I must be missing something...
Thanks again!
Brandon
91 Turbo
Yes that eyelet caught me by surprise - What a PITA!
Three axes? hmm. Seemed like only two to me - as there were two studs facing the back, one above the other, and one stud coming down from the FD.
I must be missing something...
Thanks again!
Brandon
91 Turbo
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks. What is curil paste? google search led me to hair products ha ha
And what kind of sealer do you use on the breather gasket?
I've seen posts on Pelican 930 board about using epoxy on the sender that leaks between the metal body and plastic inside part.
I replaced the big breather hose (and other oil lines etc) about 5 years ago when the engine was rebuilt. So all my hoses/lines are good. Although I feel like I should replace the big "L" oil line in the rear wheel well by the oil filter - I had that fail once right when I pulled into the garage after a long drive - emptied all the oil on my floor. Speaking of oil filter - damn they did a good job making it a huge PITA to change on this car. Been changing oil on this car for 11 years and still don't have a method to make it easy. A lift sure would help.
And what kind of sealer do you use on the breather gasket?
I've seen posts on Pelican 930 board about using epoxy on the sender that leaks between the metal body and plastic inside part.
I replaced the big breather hose (and other oil lines etc) about 5 years ago when the engine was rebuilt. So all my hoses/lines are good. Although I feel like I should replace the big "L" oil line in the rear wheel well by the oil filter - I had that fail once right when I pulled into the garage after a long drive - emptied all the oil on my floor. Speaking of oil filter - damn they did a good job making it a huge PITA to change on this car. Been changing oil on this car for 11 years and still don't have a method to make it easy. A lift sure would help.
You do not remove the fuel distributor! Remove the intercooler and the airbox. As said, it's a bit tedious.
I like to remove the bolts from the left and right side of the engine mount and slightly lower the engine. Yes, there is enough room to do so without disconnected anything else. This will allow you to reach the triangle and complete your mission.
Also, inspect the breather hoses for cracking, squeeze them and look for cracks, you'd be surprised how much oil vapor they put out under pressure. I also like to use a little teflon tape or paste on the oil sender, curil paste on the thermostat o-ring, and a thin coat of sealer on both surfaces of the breather gasket.
I like to remove the bolts from the left and right side of the engine mount and slightly lower the engine. Yes, there is enough room to do so without disconnected anything else. This will allow you to reach the triangle and complete your mission.
Also, inspect the breather hoses for cracking, squeeze them and look for cracks, you'd be surprised how much oil vapor they put out under pressure. I also like to use a little teflon tape or paste on the oil sender, curil paste on the thermostat o-ring, and a thin coat of sealer on both surfaces of the breather gasket.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK got the bracket - It WAS just hung up on the stud coming down from the FD.
Now having a hard time getting the thermostat out. Part of me says it is not the issue so leave it be - the o-ring is only 5 years old and while I could not tell where oil was coming from when looking at the TOD - I did see what looked to me like evidence of a breach on the breather cover gasket. Other part of me says address everything since it's apart.
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Now having a hard time getting the thermostat out. Part of me says it is not the issue so leave it be - the o-ring is only 5 years old and while I could not tell where oil was coming from when looking at the TOD - I did see what looked to me like evidence of a breach on the breather cover gasket. Other part of me says address everything since it's apart.
Brandon
'91 Turbo
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Fritz.
Yes that eyelet caught me by surprise - What a PITA!
Three axes? hmm. Seemed like only two to me - as there were two studs facing the back, one above the other, and one stud coming down from the FD.
I must be missing something...
Thanks again!
Brandon
91 Turbo
Yes that eyelet caught me by surprise - What a PITA!
Three axes? hmm. Seemed like only two to me - as there were two studs facing the back, one above the other, and one stud coming down from the FD.
I must be missing something...
Thanks again!
Brandon
91 Turbo
Curil is a universal surface seal from Elring, silicone based, non-hardening and permanently elastic.
I don't use sealing compound but apply engine oil on both sides of the paper gasket.
Fritz
#13
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK got the bracket - It WAS just hung up on the stud coming down from the FD.
Now having a hard time getting the thermostat out. Part of me says it is not the issue so leave it be - the o-ring is only 5 years old and while I could not tell where oil was coming from when looking at the TOD - I did see what looked to me like evidence of a breach on the breather cover gasket. Other part of me says address everything since it's apart.
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Now having a hard time getting the thermostat out. Part of me says it is not the issue so leave it be - the o-ring is only 5 years old and while I could not tell where oil was coming from when looking at the TOD - I did see what looked to me like evidence of a breach on the breather cover gasket. Other part of me says address everything since it's apart.
Brandon
'91 Turbo
Fritz
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm willing to negotiate about the number of axles, I felt like if the bracket could not be moved in any of the three axes. But your reasoning for 2 axes also has something to it ;-).
Curil is a universal surface seal from Elring, silicone based, non-hardening and permanently elastic.
I don't use sealing compound but apply engine oil on both sides of the paper gasket.
Fritz
Curil is a universal surface seal from Elring, silicone based, non-hardening and permanently elastic.
I don't use sealing compound but apply engine oil on both sides of the paper gasket.
Fritz
I got antsy and I've already just re-installed the breather cover and that little bracket sure went on easier than it came off. I probably should have done the oil on the gasket. Damn. Next time!
Brandon
'91 Turbo