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Is there a special tool to lock the crank pulley in place while refitting? This is the 3.3 item (non-tapered, with the dowel locating pin).
I removed it with an air impact wrench without too many problems, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how you hold the pulley in place - there doesn't appear to be any locking pins behind the two cut-outs in the pulley itself - is there some tool that fits over the top and onto the engine/chassis rails/floor to stop it turning?
In fifth gear, pry bars jammed into rear disc vents, wheels rotated so the bars push against calipers and then handbrake pulled on as far as I could pull.
That went on way easier than it came off. That always makes me worried it hasn't been done properly, especially since it was a not insignificant 170Nm.
Last edited by Megatron-UK; 04-04-2023 at 01:04 PM.
So the engine is in the car? What torque setting did you go to? (I just built my 3.6)
What I normally do on my own personal engines (6 builds now), I torque the pulley from front to as high as my small gun can reach (It is uncapable of reaching the torque limit). Then from the other end use the flywheel & housing and lock it in place with my own fabricated "locking tool". And then torque properly at the front.
(They come off harder than they go on if they have been on for a while)
Yes, engine is still in the car - I've mainly being doing an exhaust and oil line overhaul (very slowly, over the last 6 months), along with refurbishing/replacing as many rusted out parts as possible and didn't want (or have the capability at the moment) to fully drop the unit out.
Engine is dropped around 20cm or thereabouts to get better access (will be doing valve adjustment next, before refitting the engine cradle to a set of new RS mounts).
It came off with a certain amount of encouragement with the air gun (I've had the car since 20092006 and who-knows when it was last off), but I wedged the discs against the calipers, put it in fifth gear and applied the handbrake as hard as I could.... it tightened straight up. The technical manual says 170Nm/125ftlbt. Far easier than I thought! I thought with the amount of force I had apply with the air gun, I would have needed a big bar to hold it... of course, that may say more about the state of the air gun (it's old) than anything else!
Last edited by Megatron-UK; 04-04-2023 at 01:41 PM.
That makes sense to me!! Good work! I will not transfer my OCD...
But while you have access, are you powder coating all the tin? Boy, they came out so nice on my car, I powdered everything, really looks nice.
With the distributor right there, can you pop it off and check the rotor, or just replace the car and wires? Your call of course.
If you have a good borescope (under $100 in US for a dual camera), you can turn the crank, and look inside the cylinder and see the walls and the valves. It is a lot more fun than watching TV.
I have media blasted and repainted most of the tinware, also cleaned up all the aluminium heat shields and their support bracketry from under the rear arches.
valve covers have been media blasted, painted and clear coated ... I couldn't resist picking out 'Porsche' in red
Waste gate has been refurbed with new diaphragm and a 1bar spring, new Cargraphic wastegate bypass cat, new Fabspeed exhaust tips. Also filed down the mounting flanges of my existing GSF headers, where I thought they were leaking, all new fasteners to be used, of course. Am also thinking about getting an O2 sensor boss welded into my existing Fabspees cat bypass in case I want to get a wideband sensor in the future.
New RS engine mounts fitted, new heat exchanger air ducting pipework... It's turned into quite a bit of work.
I want it all done within the next month or so, as later this year I want to start on suspension rework!
04-04-2023, 11:58 AM
Crank pulley refitting
