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Numbers mean little and the chart would tell us more if we could see RPM's. With dynojets I use a 15% drivetrain loss but most numbers I see on a dynojet are about 10-15% high. I trust mustang dynos more, use an 18% drivetrain loss and they seem to run around 10% low. We ran a dyno day on a local mustang and nearly every car showed about 10% lower than factory numbers. My twin turbo 993 engine showed 333rwhp and 329rwtq and I feel that it is a bit low. Based on calculations it should be reading closer to 369RWHP (450BHP) considering the car will pull on a 991GT3RS in a straight line at the track but weighs a lot less.
I plan to test my turbo again this time on the mustang and last I tested it we saw 386rwhp and 391rwtq on a dyno jet which I think is ambitious. The car is fast and breaks the 285's loose without hesitation but I still don't feel these numbers to be correct. I tested my C2 on a dyno jet and we saw 247RWHP and 236 rwtq i later tested it on a mustang seeing 209RWHP and 197 rwtq. Using 15% on the dyno jet would put that at 291BHP and 279 tq which is very optimistic for the mods done. 18% on the mustang would put it at 255bhp and 240 rwtq. I suspect based on the GT3RS's and the other cars we tested that all showed about 10% low that my C2 is at about 280bhp and 264 tq which seems correct.
Dynos are a great tool when tuning and are best when you have a baseline and then a run after any changes are made on the same dyno. This will show a change and many bolt on parts show they do far less than the claims when tested on a dyno jet. In either case the engine seems strong and that is what is most critical.
1. OEM Mahle 3.6 Turbo piston and cylinders (new)
2. Custom Pauter lightweight H pattern rods
3. ARP rod bolts and hardware
4. 964 camshafts
5. Custom twin plug head revision
6. valve seats and guides replaced
7. Crankshaft stroke reconfigured for 3.6 displacement (stroked)
8. Clewett Twin Ignition crank fire setup including wires, pulley, sensor, pickup
9. European 1979 930 fuel distributor and Euro injectors
10. K29 turbocharger
11.GHL headers
I sold the car because it has high millage (145;000 miles) and I found this one for a good price (72,000 miles)
I never dyno the old one because i had some oil leaks and i was not confident to go full boost on a dyno
I read again an old mail from previous owner tonight and this is what he sad about the artic silver car:
3 angle valve job
Digital WUR
Gtk turbo with 1 bar boost before 3000rpm
...
Don't have much more details than that. There was a water spray system on the intercooler but it was not plugged to anything
cobalt:
I agree that dyno number can be a bragging right. I was just curious of the impact of mods on the car. But in the big scheme of things i like more stock car
Hey William-
So the new car has the digital WUR? I'd love to hear more about it. Is this the FrankenCIS with the super long thread on Pelican? The idea of a digital WUR makes a lot of sense to me - just curious if the reality of it lives up to the idea.
Congrats on the new car - looks great - as did the other one.
So...comparisons please. Obviously the smaller number on the odo looks nicer :-) does it feel any better?
I have very little information on this car in it"s previous life sadly
I can take more pictures of the engine if there is anything you will like to see
I liked more the color of the other one, but with 145,000 miles i was a bit worried of any mechanical failure
In term of performance, it looks the same. However on the high millage car, I always found the front of the car to be a bit unstable, even a low speed. On the new one, it's way better
Could be a suspension adjustment however
Interior quality is better on the new one obviously and the seats are heated and have 12 positions adjustment :-)
New car feel definitively more tight
I was going to do a K27/29 hybrid this spring but was talked into a K27 modified by Evergreen Turbo in florida, Charlie there really knows his stuff and comes highly recommended. He could have done a 27/29 hybrid for similar money, but talked me into a rebuilt of mine with a billet compressor wheel and a special 9 blade turbine wheel and it spools starting at about 2600 RPM and pulls like mad up to redline. I'm quite happy with what i've got, for now...