RS Door panel (no locking knob?)
#16
Three Wheelin'
On my 90 C2 if the ignition is off, the central switch will lock both doors and either door switch will unlock both doors. If the ignition is on, the central switch will both lock and unlock the doors.
#17
Burning Brakes
Hey Jetta... I had an idea. Why not install a T-Lock? Then you could use the key fob to lock and unlock both doors, ignition on, ignition off, in the car, out of the car.....
..... change the hot to the lock control box from a switched (ignition) lead to a non-switched lead so that the center unlocking feature is always available....
No idea what that will do to battery drain between drives though.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the ideas and comments.
This all started with wanting a center console delete and moving the switches to the dashboard. Then for a really clean look, researching how to move the window switches to the switch panel... then the locking *****. Stop!
My panels were delivered Friday after work, so mod/research time is done, time to install.
I'm 90% complete. I couldn't get one of the jack nuts to correctly set in the door, so I still need to install one to fully secure the driver's handle. I'm also looking for solutions to secure the bottom of the panel without having to use the visible screws along the bottom edge. Currently using Velcro.
The panels and speakers were heavier than I thought... 22 lbs!
The rear panel speakers were also heavy, but the parcel shelf not so much. Maybe another ~10 lbs saved.
Plus CD changer, head unit and 100 ft of cables. ~10lbs.
Love the focused, minimal look of the interior now.
Center tunnel delete, with switch panel would look awesome, but I'm happy for now.
Also adjusted my throttle pedal for better heal/toe. It's the little things. (tape is to ensure the adjustment stays in place)
This all started with wanting a center console delete and moving the switches to the dashboard. Then for a really clean look, researching how to move the window switches to the switch panel... then the locking *****. Stop!
My panels were delivered Friday after work, so mod/research time is done, time to install.
I'm 90% complete. I couldn't get one of the jack nuts to correctly set in the door, so I still need to install one to fully secure the driver's handle. I'm also looking for solutions to secure the bottom of the panel without having to use the visible screws along the bottom edge. Currently using Velcro.
The panels and speakers were heavier than I thought... 22 lbs!
The rear panel speakers were also heavy, but the parcel shelf not so much. Maybe another ~10 lbs saved.
Plus CD changer, head unit and 100 ft of cables. ~10lbs.
Love the focused, minimal look of the interior now.
Center tunnel delete, with switch panel would look awesome, but I'm happy for now.
Also adjusted my throttle pedal for better heal/toe. It's the little things. (tape is to ensure the adjustment stays in place)
Last edited by 911Jetta; 07-24-2017 at 03:55 PM.
#19
Burning Brakes
Nice! Kidnapper's special... once a passenger gets in they can't get out unless you allow it. LOL.
Looks really clean. I may copy you but doing my interior is still many months away.
Looks really clean. I may copy you but doing my interior is still many months away.
#21
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Location: Aubonne, Switzerland
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Not sure why I have this logic but here's what I would do:
Re-trimmed stock door panels: leather
RS door panels: vinyl
Difficult to tell the difference on RS door panels in my opinion. Once you get into the original door panels with door pockets, stitching etc, you can tell it's vinyl (I have OEM vinyl on mine and have seen leather door panels). Leather looks richer in that scenario but even then, it's a very small difference in my opinion.
By the way, I am installing my vinyl RS door panels this weekend along with new coax speakers. I will try to post some photos.
Re-trimmed stock door panels: leather
RS door panels: vinyl
Difficult to tell the difference on RS door panels in my opinion. Once you get into the original door panels with door pockets, stitching etc, you can tell it's vinyl (I have OEM vinyl on mine and have seen leather door panels). Leather looks richer in that scenario but even then, it's a very small difference in my opinion.
By the way, I am installing my vinyl RS door panels this weekend along with new coax speakers. I will try to post some photos.
Last edited by memo555; 07-05-2017 at 09:36 AM. Reason: added comment:
#22
Instructor
Thanks for the ideas and comments.
This all started with wanting a center console delete and moving the switches to the dashboard. Then for a really clean look, researching how to move the window switches to the switch panel... then the locking *****. Stop!
My panels were delivered Friday after work, so mod/research time is done, time to install.
I'm 90% complete. I couldn't get one of the jack nuts to correctly set in the door, so I still need to install one to fully secure the driver's handle. I'm also looking for solutions to secure the bottom of the panel without having to use the visible screws along the bottom edge. Currently using Velcro.
The panels and speakers were heavier than I thought... 22 lbs!
The rear panel speakers were also heavy, but the parcel shelf not so much. Maybe another ~10 lbs saved.
Plus CD changer, head unit and 100 ft of cables. ~10lbs.
Love the focused, minimal look of the interior now.
Center tunnel delete, with switch panel would look awesome, but I'm happy for now.
This all started with wanting a center console delete and moving the switches to the dashboard. Then for a really clean look, researching how to move the window switches to the switch panel... then the locking *****. Stop!
My panels were delivered Friday after work, so mod/research time is done, time to install.
I'm 90% complete. I couldn't get one of the jack nuts to correctly set in the door, so I still need to install one to fully secure the driver's handle. I'm also looking for solutions to secure the bottom of the panel without having to use the visible screws along the bottom edge. Currently using Velcro.
The panels and speakers were heavier than I thought... 22 lbs!
The rear panel speakers were also heavy, but the parcel shelf not so much. Maybe another ~10 lbs saved.
Plus CD changer, head unit and 100 ft of cables. ~10lbs.
Love the focused, minimal look of the interior now.
Center tunnel delete, with switch panel would look awesome, but I'm happy for now.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm also looking for solutions to secure the bottom of the panel without having to use the visible screws along the bottom edge. Currently using Velcro.
I slightly elongate the holes (from behind) so I can slide the rivet head into the door panel.
The plastic rivets slide right into the doors screw holes (nice fit, and can also be pulled off if I need to take the door panel off)
No locking **** (the reason I started this thread...)
Forms a perfect, tight seal. No exposed hardware! (Subtle, but I love it!)
Last edited by 911Jetta; 07-24-2017 at 04:12 PM.
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rivet hardware information for those that are interested.
I only used the rivet portion.
I used a blade to slightly cut the hole and then finished elongating the hole with a screwdriver. Rivet slides right in, but doesn't move.
Shows one rivet installed. The rivet presses into the door screw hole, to create a strong hold for the panel. (you can feel the rivet engage and firmly slide right into the door's metal screw hole)
I only used the rivet portion.
I used a blade to slightly cut the hole and then finished elongating the hole with a screwdriver. Rivet slides right in, but doesn't move.
Shows one rivet installed. The rivet presses into the door screw hole, to create a strong hold for the panel. (you can feel the rivet engage and firmly slide right into the door's metal screw hole)
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
-20 lbs (total) and the door latch click is even louder. Double win.
I used to have to tell passengers where the door handle was so they could get out. Not anymore!
Normal set up:
Was going for this:
I used to have to tell passengers where the door handle was so they could get out. Not anymore!
Normal set up:
Was going for this:
Last edited by 911Jetta; 07-24-2017 at 05:10 PM.
#27
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Aubonne, Switzerland
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I have installed door cards I bought nearly new from a rennlister and all has gone relatively smooth and as expected. Except the door handles hardware... the fit and finish of the plastic covers that go at each end of the handle are very poor quality and won't click in. I won't mention the brand as I wouldn't want to tarnish their reputation + I didn't buy straight from the manufacturer.
Any recommendations where I might be able to buy separate door handle hardware, especially those endcaps?
Any recommendations where I might be able to buy separate door handle hardware, especially those endcaps?
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Contact Bob, owner, at Appbiz for your specific item and he'll email you right back. He was great when needed a small part. bob@appbiz.com
Use washers behind the door handle, to push the handle away from the door panel, and the plastic ends will snap right on.
Use washers behind the door handle, to push the handle away from the door panel, and the plastic ends will snap right on.
#30
Burning Brakes
I got locked in my car in the winter because I didn't had the door lock ***** installed.
Had to park in my garage open the window and use the key to unlock it. LOL.
While it's not as clean, in Canada winters, the stupid **** may be necessary.
The washer trick worked for me too BTW for the door handle covers.
Had to park in my garage open the window and use the key to unlock it. LOL.
While it's not as clean, in Canada winters, the stupid **** may be necessary.
The washer trick worked for me too BTW for the door handle covers.