tdiquattro

I put self tapping screws in to it and pulled it out using them.

John McM

Parts have arrived. GBP 78 ex Tax the equivalent of USD 99.

-nick

A regular seal puller works. Just make sure not to scratch the soft aluminum case with the pick.

HiWind

thanks for this .. is you last pic of the new or old mount? where was the old one degraded?

John McM

My pics are all new parts. The rubber has a matte powdery finish instead of a shiny hard one.

tdiquattro

Mine was split quite badly, they are easy to take out and check if you just support the weight of the front diff. Dont forget the gear lever is anchored to the tube so any movement wont help with smooth shifting.

HiWind

^^ good point TdiQ thanks

HiWind

so TdiQ ... just to confirm your first post: that process is for when engine is already out, right?

tdiquattro

Yep, this is to avoid having to drop the diff and steering rack, helps reaching the top bolts too!

HiWind

wasn't planning on dropping engine soon .. hmm.

Could you tell me: Do I need to disconnect the rear of the tube at the gearbox first or just drop subframe a little to reach them?

HiWind

so I took my mount out and while its quite oily it isnt cracked and split ... how can you tell if it's shot or NOT?

tdiquattro

Do you mean to remove the diff? Have a look at the links in the previous posts for info.

And to check the mount, I would say as long as it is bonded to the metal sections and not split you are fine, but like all these things a new wont have been flexed for 27 years so I expect would feel better.

HiWind

thanks for the input - its just quite oily (combo of split CV boot and diff rear seal leak) so wondering if the rubbers compromised .. oil has taken some of the paint off the underside after all ... will try check in vise

HiWind

so I've replaced all the seals as above - thanks for the guidance .... I see the two seals on the back of the shaft ie into the gearbox look wet. The lower small green one being the selector shaft seal.

Like the front diff seal (2nd pic below) there's a copper (dis)colored line showing.

Do you usually replace these rear side seals too at the same time?



Old v New: Note the cracks as well as the copper color (or is that how it orig came).

willmip

Resurrecting this thread for a sanity check as I'm in the process of reassembly.

I used a new rubber disc on the end of the torque tube as above (and as per the manual), but I've found that I can't slide the shaft collar far enough into the diff to get the collar bolt on.

I've tried a bit of levering on the collar, but it seems like I will need quite a bit of force. Or, torque the nut holding the disc on beyond 10nm.

Any feedback from those that have gone before?