Matthew, what torque settings did you use for the four bolts that hold the pump halves together? The generic setting max for an M8 bolt with 8.8 hardness would be 18 ft/lb 25Nm.

 

I used 17 ft/lb as I couldn't find the specs for this specific application. Its been 4 years without any leaks.

 

Thanks Rob. I think we need a specific torque thread with pics so this info is captured.

 

I went with Rob's choice of 17 ft lbs. My torque wrenches have never been calibrated, so I will just watch closely once engine is back in car. Great idea on torque thread, especially for those items that can't be found in spec books or WSM... Hopefully, the experienced folk will correct us if we error.

 

Installation of engine went really well although won't win any speed records. I took few hours each day over a four day period to complete. Was kind of enjoying the LUMP in "Go For Launch" status sitting next to my car... The lift allowed me clearance and I did not have to remove rear bumper. Lift table and no other floor jacks required. A few pics;




That sleeve looks so innocent, more on this later ...



Bendpak with mod to cross beam.




Slow and steady, ready for docking ...




Watch the fuel lines and electrical connectors



Gearbox almost ready for installation, somebody get me a fork and some DUCK tape ...

 

The clamping sleeve connecting the front and rear driveshafts?

 

Yes, gearbox to center tube... After getting center tube to transmission aligned on dowels, bottom two bolts just snug, transmission mounts (6 bolts) snug and engine mounts snug, everything looked visually good from under car, used two fingers to slide sleeve on to transmission output shaft and no go? Here is the humorous part, I spent no less than three hours lining up splines, moving sleeve back and forth with fingers only. I then saw what may be issue. I looked at transmission mount cross bolt (small circle on pic) where it attaches to flat six bolt plate and it's not in original location as I left that bolt loose (allow mount to float) until all drivetrain in position... Well, it is not a bolt hole, but a slot. It was .5 inches off and had gearbox sagging apparently that much. Loosened and had to jack gearbox up to have circled tran mount back to original spot based on outline of where nut was originally. All good, done for the day. I don't force anything and just laughed at what I thought would be a two minute step was not.

 

I replaced the clutch slave hose, therefore, when engine was a few inches from docking, I bleed the clutch slave with momentive bleeder and will do full system bleed in near future.

 

Anyone doing this for first time can relate to those anxious moments I felt leading up to cranking the engine for the first time. After adding the first two 4.7 liter jugs of oil and refilling power steering fluid, I put DME relay in and did full Motronic diagnostics, got no fault codes, then actuated injectors, resonance flap, etc.. Removed DME relay and still feeling timid on turning the key, I thought I might just want to remove crankcase drain plug and see if any oil has overflowed to crankcase sump area from initial fill, nothing, notta, nit??? I wondered how does oil get flowing if sump pump has no oil to feed it? Where did all my expensive oil go
Could someone enlighten me as to how the system primes itself, somehow oil is getting to sump during those nervous few cranks of engine ?

Next, with DME relay out, fuel pump fuse out, turned it over just few times, no oil pressure yet, nail biter Few more cranks and oil pressure gauge moved up a little .. Put fuel pump fuse back and few more cranks... Went back and checked all fuel lines for leaks, power steering pump for leaks, all good... One last check of crankcase, removed drain plug and ... WE STRUCK OIL

One last final final final walk around engine bay and DME relay back in, I turned the key and ... It's alive! Fired right up

Next, off to alignment for ride height, corner balance, wheel alignment as I put new springs and struts in last summer

 

Great work. I know that nervous feeling and will get it soon enough again.

 

Congratulations on a successful startup! Yes, I was nervous starting my engine after a rebuild too. But I stuck to the script of startup instructions just like you did and all went as planned.

 

Thanks. Feel quite the accomplishment and will use as stepping stone to what comes next. Amazing how hyper sensitive to any engine noise or car behavior this kind of job makes a person. I never noticed how hot things get in engine bay. The fan shroud and oil filter when touched, pretty darn HOT ... I just ordered one of those IR temp guns and want to compare heat signatures to a chaps post on PP taken on his 964. If anyone has done this, please post your numbers.

CA Smog test is next... Suffered ridiculous DMV penalties as their billing system must have been designed by Bernie Madoff .... Is all an attempt to address underfunded State pensions... 268.00 due, Lady at Autoclub says, "You owe 464.00", she was really enjoying my incredulous reaction too ...

 

Appreciate feedback;

 

All subject to others input.

Inner seal sounds like the rubber skirt on the engine bay edge that seals against the engine tin

I use 37ft lb 50Nm for oil drain and thermostat.

Engine bearing sounds like the engine mount area.

Edit this from a Jason Andreas thread supports the oil drain number, The crankcase and thermostat housing drain plug are only torqued to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs). There was a TSB on 11/08/94 that corrected the workshop manuals.

 

Those WSM numbers seemed too high and I think I stopped at 40lbs. Will note for future, thanks.

Guess where this stuff is going, nowhere!