John McM

Thanks. You put it so succinctly that I'm champing at the bit to find out what has gone wrong.

AVI_8

Thanks for the tips Colin. I'm surprised that the cam spray bars aren't clogged on that engine you've stripped with all that dodgy sealant.
Also from the picture you posted of the Loctite 574 applied on the case it seems that less is better, I've followed lots of engine rebuild threads and it appears that there's a general worry from amateur rebuilders of leaks which results in a much thicker application which would then end up with with beads of sealant ending up squeezed into the case.

Logan

NineMeister

You're stealing my thunder, Logan! The horror of the camshafts is up next once we've been through the bottom end details.

AOW162435

Great thread! Those teardown pics are disturbing to say the least.



Andreas

NineMeister

Yes, less is more. We apply a single line of sealant all around the case, then evenly spread it out with a small block of foam in a dabbing action. Works for us and the foam also removes excess 574. Some people use a roller, we prefer foam as you can toss away the piece after you finish and do every new build with a fresh, clean piece.

Note on the photo of the case the slot around one of the through bolt holes. This is also an oil drain slot. The through bolt holes are part of the oil gallery & distribution path through the engine, so the case half joint is a seepage point. All the other joints can naturally seep oil back into the sump, but because this one is on the outside of the case it requires the oil drain slot to prevent oil pushing out under the alternator. Yes, it is critically important that this hole is not blocked with sealant....

The red on the bearings is redline assembly lube. You can use a thicker engine oil instead (20/50 mineral is fine) however when an engine is stood for a long time after completion (as is usual with some of our restoration & conversion projects) the assembly lube remains on the bearings indefinitely to protect them under initial start up. Once running the oil flow washes the lube into the system where it is dropped with the break-in oil after the running in period.

Rocket Rob

Colin - You are always a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing this with the RL community.

JohnK964

👍 good info

nickyv

I love this thread. I've owned my 964 for 11 years but a complete newbie to car repairs, how they run and what makes them tick. In fact I could use a glossary for many of the terms used by you guys. I'm fascinated by it all. John Mc I've followed yours enthusiastically as well. I really appreciate the "pointer" overlays on the pics, they are of tremendous value to me. Thanks Colin.

NineMeister

Thanks for the encouragement guys. In my view, if I can save one person from making one mistake when building their engine it is justification enough. However, I know I say it all the time but I do mean it when I say that feedback is important and is always very much appreciated. That's what really makes the 964 & 993 forums a rewarding place to hang out.

NineMeister

Cheers.
The only trouble is, the more you know, the more you realise you don't know and I'm becoming well aware than I'm very quickly running out of time to learn more!

AVI_8

Hi Colin,
Pm sent regarding an enquiry about my own soon to be engine rebuild.
Logan

964George

Subscribed

gw911nine97

Colin, thanks for sharing your experience so educational :thumbsup

fasterlaster

Holy crap, thanks for the tip on this. No 911 engines yet, but multiple VeeDub engine rebuilds under my belt and I always struggled on getting the right amount of sealant on the case halves.

NineMeister

Back again for round two.

Just to show that this engine is not an exception to the horrors that you might find in your "rebuilt" 964 engine, these photos are of the insides of a genuine 2.7RS race engine which came in for dyno tuning (!) and seized itself whilst warming up on the rollers.

First shot is of the bottom of the cylinders. Can you see the two semi-circular dents each side of every cylinder? These are caused by the connecting rod bolts, touching the bottom of the cylinders because both the cylinders and the cases were re-faced to drop the height of the head and increase compression.

Moving up to the cam carriers, again, copious amounts of silicone sealant have been used, the excess dislodging itself inside the engine. Some of this debris ends up in the camshaft spray bars (which are removed by drilling, tapping and slide-hammering the end plugs out of the cam carriers) which then migrates along the tubes to block the tiny squirter holes for the cam followers and cam bearings.