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Need HELP on removing longitudinal slave cylinder porsche 964 c4

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Old 12-16-2016, 08:16 PM
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minhnugen
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Default Need HELP on removing longitudinal slave cylinder porsche 964 c4

Hey guys
I'm dropping my C4 engine to do a top end. I'm following multiple guides for dropping the engine and tranny from Garrett, Ricardo, Adrian book and the Service Manual.
I got everything all good to go and ready to drop....except I'm stuck at the longitudinal slave cylinder. I pulled out the key in between the tranny and the longitudinal slave cylinder, but for the love of god...I can't seem to pull the slave cylinder out.
I lowered the engine about 2" and it's just not moving. Everyone doing it say it's supposed to be able to pull out, but mine is pretty damn tight in there. Is there a trick or method that anyone use? Am I missing a bolt to undo somewhere there?
Any help will be much appreciated.

thanks

minh
Old 12-16-2016, 11:40 PM
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FeralComprehension
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Per PET illustration 305-15 it's just the key. The fit between the OD of the slave and the ID of the mating bore in the trans is snug and after 20+ years it's just gummed up. If it was me I'd use a combination of heat to the trans case, Kroil at the interface, and lots of patience.
Old 12-16-2016, 11:46 PM
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minhnugen
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Thank you for the response. I will try some Kroil on it.
Old 12-17-2016, 12:13 AM
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Wiggle.

Thanks!
Andrew
Old 12-17-2016, 12:31 AM
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You don't even want to know how I took it out. I ended up destroying the slave and had to get a new one to the tune of $500. As I found out after removing it, there's a buildup of corrosion against the aluminum transmission housing. Try the kroil but I had no luck with any of it. One suggestion I might have is to disconnect the slave and apply a torque to the cylinder. This is easier said than done. The space is so tight that you really can get anything on it with strength.
Old 12-17-2016, 07:43 PM
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FeralComprehension
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If you're removing the transmission from the car anyway it may be prudent to just unhook the hardline from the slave and cap it, leaving the slave in place during removal. Once the trans is out you should have better access to it and be better able to coax the slave out. Clearly you'd need to bleed after you reinstall, but that's a small matter compared to the complexity you're already committed to
Old 12-17-2016, 10:23 PM
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I don't think it's possible to disconnect the transmission from the central tunnel shaft with the longitudinal slave in place. The slave passes through the flange of the central shaft across the mating surface of the transmission. The nipple of the slave does not fit through to be able to disconnect the two. You have to remove the longitudinal slave first. Believe me when I tell you that I tried everything including trying to force the separation by lowering the engine and transmission together. In short, nothing but perseverance and multiple attempts to remove the slave will work.
Old 12-18-2016, 12:21 AM
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964Andrew
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I used a wedge between the fluid port (highlighted) and the flange to separate the slave. Several taps with plastic hammer, lots of wiggling and it finally let go.



If you look closely you will see a flat spot on the fluid port where I had the wedge placed.

Thanks!
Andrew
Old 12-18-2016, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by apanossi
I don't think it's possible to disconnect the transmission from the central tunnel shaft with the longitudinal slave in place.
Ah, you're probably right. I confess I was going from memory and it's been a while since I was under there. Apologies, OP!
Old 12-18-2016, 04:21 PM
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minhnugen
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Thanks for all the tips guys. I was able to wiggle it out after soaking it with some penetrating oil.
Successfully removed the engine.
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Old 12-19-2016, 01:41 PM
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Well done. But how do you have that car lifted? Is it sitting on cinder blocks?
Old 12-19-2016, 01:57 PM
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minhnugen
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It is sitting on a stack of cinder blocks.
Old 12-19-2016, 04:34 PM
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That's what it looks like. This is a completely unsafe setup for many reasons. Cinder blocks have been known to crumble under pressure. You really need at minimum proper jack stands. I'm sure others will have an opinion on this.
Old 12-19-2016, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by apanossi
That's what it looks like. This is a completely unsafe setup for many reasons. Cinder blocks have been known to crumble under pressure. You really need at minimum proper jack stands. I'm sure others will have an opinion on this.
This x1,000%

Originally Posted by minhnugen
It is sitting on a stack of cinder blocks.
You can get jack stands for ~$40/pair at any auto parts store.
Getting crushed by your car isn't worth the small amount of savings.
These:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0770&ppt=C0373
Or these:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0770&ppt=C0373
are both viable inexpensive options.

Just my $.02
Old 12-19-2016, 06:13 PM
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Thanks for the tip. The car is lowered now. I used the blocks to get it at the optimum height to pull the engine out. Jack stands alone does not give me enough clearance.
My garage is not big enough for a lift. I have the QuickJak, but that's no high enough. Not recommending anyone here to do anything, I wasn't doing a tutorial


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