Reuse caliper mounting bolts
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Arizona
Update. Spoke to Sunset and they confirmed the caliper mounting bolts are categorized as one time use due to the torque issue. New bolts and the washers (thanks Goughary) on the way. They also said their guys don't use anything on the threads. The optimoly is used on the disc cap where it meets the hub ( thin coat) and on the edge of pads and slide plates. Thanks again for all the input. At the end of the day each of us has to decide what is best.
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From: USVI
Originally Posted by nicky
At the end of the day each of us has to decide what is best.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Arizona
Auugghh! My last rear brake caliper bolt, drivers side, the one that requires the modified Allen wrench, is refusing to budge. There's no room for a breaker bar, I'm up on jack stands, no lift. I've drenched it in Liquid Wrench. I've heated it up with a torch (about two minutes) and still nothing. The heat was focused mostly on the head of the bolt, its tight in there and I didn't know if that heat would harm the seals in the caliper, so mostly focused on the head. Is my impact wrench too weak? It's a cheap Craftsmen 1/2 inch drive. Specs say ultimate torque is 330 ft pounds. Any suggestions??
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From: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
Make sure your extension is no longer than absolutely necessary to reach; extra length will just wind up and soften the impacts.
Try heat on the part into which the fastener is threaded vs. the fastener itself.
Turn up your air pressure.
Try heat on the part into which the fastener is threaded vs. the fastener itself.
Turn up your air pressure.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,934
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From: fairfield, CT
Pb blaster works better than liquid wrench. Soak it and leave it. If it's really that bad. Soak it once a day for a few days and be patient.
For the lower bolts, I use a Facom half inch drive 10mm long reach socket I bought from ultimate garage. You have plenty of room on jack stands to get under there and crack it open with a 24" breaker. When it comes to stubborn bolts on these cars, best quality tools are your friends. Make sure the Allen has a very good seat before attempting to crack it loose.
For the top bolts, I use a standard length 1/2 drive Blackhawk 10mm impact Allen. And an 18" breaker.
Good luck. Once they've been off once. You won't have this issue again. Like I said earlier. I reuse mine with no issue. But new is likely better. But for me. I coat them with antiseize and use the curvy lock washers and all good. I don't worry about the bolts seizing...cuz they really don't if you are taking care of things...
And now that I'm typing this...I remember way back, the first time I broke mine loose, they were stuck like this- I used my 1:3 torque multiplier with that facom long Allen and it was a breeze. But on all the other cars I've done, just a breakerbar was enough.
The important thing here, is the highest quality Allen you can get. And seated well in the bolt head. It's going to take a lot of force. And you want to be as sure as you can be that you aren't going to round anything out.
For the lower bolts, I use a Facom half inch drive 10mm long reach socket I bought from ultimate garage. You have plenty of room on jack stands to get under there and crack it open with a 24" breaker. When it comes to stubborn bolts on these cars, best quality tools are your friends. Make sure the Allen has a very good seat before attempting to crack it loose.
For the top bolts, I use a standard length 1/2 drive Blackhawk 10mm impact Allen. And an 18" breaker.
Good luck. Once they've been off once. You won't have this issue again. Like I said earlier. I reuse mine with no issue. But new is likely better. But for me. I coat them with antiseize and use the curvy lock washers and all good. I don't worry about the bolts seizing...cuz they really don't if you are taking care of things...
And now that I'm typing this...I remember way back, the first time I broke mine loose, they were stuck like this- I used my 1:3 torque multiplier with that facom long Allen and it was a breeze. But on all the other cars I've done, just a breakerbar was enough.
The important thing here, is the highest quality Allen you can get. And seated well in the bolt head. It's going to take a lot of force. And you want to be as sure as you can be that you aren't going to round anything out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Arizona
Facom long socket
Not sure what you are saying about the long reach socket. The Allen is about 6 inches long, goes through the hole in the swing arm and then into the caliper bolt. Are you referring to a long reach torque socket in place of the Allen? Headed to buy some Blaster. The torque multiplier, does it work with the Allen key set up? They appear to be a couple of bills, so hoping that becomes a last resort. Seems like using it with the Allen key might cause the Allen key to break?
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: fairfield, CT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 47
From: VA
Pb blaster works better than liquid wrench. Soak it and leave it. If it's really that bad. Soak it once a day for a few days and be patient.
For the lower bolts, I use a Facom half inch drive 10mm long reach socket I bought from ultimate garage. You have plenty of room on jack stands to get under there and crack it open with a 24" breaker. When it comes to stubborn bolts on these cars, best quality tools are your friends. Make sure the Allen has a very good seat before attempting to crack it loose.
For the top bolts, I use a standard length 1/2 drive Blackhawk 10mm impact Allen. And an 18" breaker.
Good luck. Once they've been off once. You won't have this issue again. Like I said earlier. I reuse mine with no issue. But new is likely better. But for me. I coat them with antiseize and use the curvy lock washers and all good. I don't worry about the bolts seizing...cuz they really don't if you are taking care of things...
And now that I'm typing this...I remember way back, the first time I broke mine loose, they were stuck like this- I used my 1:3 torque multiplier with that facom long Allen and it was a breeze. But on all the other cars I've done, just a breakerbar was enough.
The important thing here, is the highest quality Allen you can get. And seated well in the bolt head. It's going to take a lot of force. And you want to be as sure as you can be that you aren't going to round anything out.
For the lower bolts, I use a Facom half inch drive 10mm long reach socket I bought from ultimate garage. You have plenty of room on jack stands to get under there and crack it open with a 24" breaker. When it comes to stubborn bolts on these cars, best quality tools are your friends. Make sure the Allen has a very good seat before attempting to crack it loose.
For the top bolts, I use a standard length 1/2 drive Blackhawk 10mm impact Allen. And an 18" breaker.
Good luck. Once they've been off once. You won't have this issue again. Like I said earlier. I reuse mine with no issue. But new is likely better. But for me. I coat them with antiseize and use the curvy lock washers and all good. I don't worry about the bolts seizing...cuz they really don't if you are taking care of things...
And now that I'm typing this...I remember way back, the first time I broke mine loose, they were stuck like this- I used my 1:3 torque multiplier with that facom long Allen and it was a breeze. But on all the other cars I've done, just a breakerbar was enough.
The important thing here, is the highest quality Allen you can get. And seated well in the bolt head. It's going to take a lot of force. And you want to be as sure as you can be that you aren't going to round anything out.
Also make sure you do this when it isn't 90 degrees out, that's something I learned the hard way!
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Breaker Bar
Goughary,
My modified Allen is 6 inches long. Add the half inch 10mm socket on the end and then the breaker bar, and there's no room. The frame is in the way both ways. Another two inches and maybe. Sprayed it down with PB Blaster for a few days, still no luck. Took the top bolt out, hammered on the caliper with a rubber mallet and did get it to pivot on the remaining bolt just a smidge. Sprayed it again just now and will try again in a few hours. Hoping to get that puppy to move. Otherwise, its off for a torque multiplier I suppose. Each joint is different but man the other three bolts (right rear and top left) came off with no problem.
My modified Allen is 6 inches long. Add the half inch 10mm socket on the end and then the breaker bar, and there's no room. The frame is in the way both ways. Another two inches and maybe. Sprayed it down with PB Blaster for a few days, still no luck. Took the top bolt out, hammered on the caliper with a rubber mallet and did get it to pivot on the remaining bolt just a smidge. Sprayed it again just now and will try again in a few hours. Hoping to get that puppy to move. Otherwise, its off for a torque multiplier I suppose. Each joint is different but man the other three bolts (right rear and top left) came off with no problem.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 804
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From: MN
I bought the Cheaterbar torque multiplier for a decent price. It seems to do the job, when needed. No affiliation.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Thanks Goughary! Picked up the torque multiplier and the Facom long reach Allen. Took me a few minutes (and some cramping arms) to get under the car and get it situated just right (had to use a section of my hydraulic jack arm as an extension to the multiplier arm). But once I started cranking on the ratchet it busted it loose. One rear pain in the *** caliper bolt off! I'm finally ready to continue.
Thanks again to everyone for helping this novice out. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again to everyone for helping this novice out. I will keep you posted.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
More questions please.
Another guidance request. I decided to rebuild the rear calibers as well. Noticed a torn dust boot and its just cheaper than upgrading to new rears. Waiting on the parts but ready to install the rebuilt front calipers. Is it better to install the vibration dampeners (mushroom style) and pads first, then bolt on the caliper? In my minds eye it would seem so, but if I've learned anything so far it's things don't always seem as they appear. Also, Sunset did say their guys don't use anything on the new caliper bolts, but many of you have said you use anti seize. I have the Optimoly TA for the slide plates. Should I use some on the bolts? Thanks again.