Arjan B.

Hi,

I drove the car into the garage tonight, I think the floor is 100% ok now.
So,........I think I make a start this weekend with jacking up the car and start to work on the service and repair session.
I let you guys know how the progress is.

The oil leak starts to show it self very much, the secundairy muffler is full of oil right now and so it the {YES} undertray.
The top of th engine it completely wet from leaking oil near the oil pressure sender, I cleaned it a few weeks ago completely with brake cleaner, but it full of oil again........

Till soon

Christer

Good luck Arjan. Hope the oil leak is not too serious.

Arjan B.

It's a leak near the oil pressure sender, all the top of the sender area is fully wet with fresh oil, and when I drive a while and park the car after that, the next day there is oil on the street......

I bought a oil pressure sender [also for flipping oil pressue tach], engine ventilation hose and the gasket for the cover who is on top of the engine. so that sould be all possilble causes.

We'll see...........

the 964 KID

Arjan,

I'm looking forward to whatever pics you take, as I intend to perform the exact tasks in about a month. How long do you think this will take, I understand it to normally take about 8-9 hours, and I'll probably do it over the course of a weekend. Have you done this before?, I'm curious as to what headaches I'll run into ( I know about some of the tougher to get to spark plugs). Thanks,

Ken.

Staffan

Arjan
Very interesting thread, I will follow your progress.

Don't know how much experience you have with valve adjustment, if you got plenty of experience my comments could perhaps be of help to others.

Personally I will adjust my valves this winter and my plan is to prepare everything and just have someone to come over and do the actual adjustment. Heard that this part is less than an hour for a pro.

This way I know for sure that it's being done right and that person could do a visual to make sure everything looks ok.
just my 2 cents.

Good luck with your work!
Staffan

Arjan B.

Guys,

There are a little problems right now....... not with the car, but I am caught by a virus, all the things I eat will come out again, so......
A few days rest, and I will be the old one.

So, the Porsche is in the garage, I jacked him up Friday night, and he is high up in the air. I have a loan car from work which I can use for a few weeks, so no rush then.

The time I need for the whole service and repairs, will depend on the other things in my life, but I think I need a few weeks to do everything. This means work on saturday, and in the evening when my wife and kid let me tak my time. Especially the valve adjustment takes almost a day work.........

Talk to you soon......

Arjan B.

Hi,

I made a start last night working on the car.

I removed the catalytic converter, cup pipe and sec. muffler. All the plates [heat shields] around the cat I removed also, I had to drill all the bolts, too much oxidation. So, I noticed the cat had a crack which I need to weld, also the same for the secundairy muffler. Probably track use takes brings more fibrations then you think and let things brake.

The oil leak is pretty much, this means all the oil from the top of the engine felt down on the undertray and sprayed around on the exhaust and crank case.

I made a few pictures already which I post this weekend.
See you,

Arjan B.

So,

Here are the first series of pictures of the start from the 160000 km service.

I will send them piece by piece.

The first one is fom the car on jack stands to see how much space you need under the car to work.

Arjan B.

Here one from a different angle

Arjan B.

stating with removing the wheels and put all the whell nuts back on.

Then start to remove the undertray fom the engine [if this should be under there
Also remove the tray under the gearbox, which gives you a lot of space to work under there.
Next is the removal from primairy [cup pipe] muffler, secundairy muffler and catalytic converter.

I removed all the heat shields also because I suspect a crack in the cat.

Note: the bolts from the heat shield could be give you some problems. If the nut starts to spin, drill the bolt heads off. Buy new nuts, no problem.

Arjan B.

So, here are the collected parts I removed under there.
This includes also the side board near the valve head covers [lower ones]

Arjan B.

After drilling a few bolts from the cat heat shields, I removed the 02 sensor. I want to replace it. It is not a part of the service, it's extra.

Arjan B.

A picture of the inside of the catalytic converter. Mine still is fine.

Arjan B.

Now I start to remove the air flow meter to get acces to the oil pressure sender.

First remove the air filter cover and air filter itself.
Then remove the Idle control valve, which is located on top of the intake manifold [silver coloured with two hoses connected] to get acces to the nut who holds the a wiring harness.

Remove the Air flow meter by removing 2 nuts in the lower part of the area where the air filter fits. NOTE: these are nuts which are also rubber brackets who couls spin while untight them. Please use a smaal vise grip to hold them agains spinning.
There is a big hose clamp on the left side of the air flow meter, open it.
Then remove the bolt that holds the wiring harness on top of the air flow meter.

Now you can remove the meter carefully.

Put some paper in the intake area for agains dirt and stuff.

Arjan B.

Removed........