Alex Sol

Not exactly a factory finish but practical. and provides access to the crank bolt without having to lower the motor and remove the engine holder. crank bolt torqued to 173 lb ft...

Ken D

Yikes.

-nick

Why would you ever??? There are 6 easy bolts to remove to pull the whole carrier. I wouldn't think that the huge crank holding tool would fit with the carrier in place. I'm hoping that an impact wrench wasn't also involved. The carrier is not known to be strong to begin with. Nothing good about this idea.

John McM

Double yikes. How do you get the pulley holder tool on?

peter_jansen

LOL. Most people add metal to the carrier in the form of a gusset for reinforcement. I see no logical reason to do this.

AOW162435

Interesting.



Andreas

Alex Sol

thanks for the comments. perhaps a little impulsive. i dont have that pulley holder tool and torqued the bolt by holding the other end of the crank.

i found it very difficult to spin the crank while trying to index the distributor so chopped the hole. i may not keep this engine holder long term and may be looking to purchase the rennline or other. also need new pillows...

what about when checking valve clearances? do you lower the motor to get access to spin crank or is there a special tool also?

DobermanDad

No need to lower the engine for to check the valve clearances.

You use the alternator shaft to turn the engine. Should have the tool in your tool kit. It's a 12 point (3 - square) allen wrench.

Good info here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...tool-list.html

I'd really think about reinforcing that carrier since you put a hole in it, if you haven't already done so. It's a known weak part.

peter_jansen

^

Especially if adding stiffer mounts.

apanossi

Oh my...

trophy

Interesting, here are my observations.

Yes the carrier is a weak spot, but not where you have cut the hole. The weak spot is at either end of the carrier where the sheet metal is welded to the round tabs that bolt to the engine mounts. If you had drilled a hole rather than cutting in the manner you did it would have been better. You have introduced stress points where you have cut the hole, (extended the cut past the hole) if you are keeping the bar then i would address them, if replacing don't worry.

You should never torque the pulley bolt by holding the flywheel end of the crank, always use the pulley holder. You run the risk of tweaking the crank shaft, which can cause a myriad of issues including catastrophic failure....

vt10vt

I torque Audi (400ft/lbs) and VW (200ft/lbs) by sticking a block of wood between one of the rod ends and block every time. Never causes a problem. The crank deals with a LOT more stress getting beat on than torquing the crank bolt induces.

To the OP- That maybe isn't ideal but I don't see it ever being an issue. I've seen a lot of failed engine carriers but never in the center. I think the loss of strength is negligable, but maybe gusset/reinforce it next time you have it out just to be safe.

goofballdeluxe

A Texas fix on a Toronto car. Go figure.

JasonAndreas

I can't comment on twisting a crankshaft but I know the reason PAG introduced the pulley holding tool was;



The one thing I've always been curious about is how much front-to-back twisting motion is imparted on the engine carrier where it attaches to the mounts? Whenever we see a failed engine carrier it looks more like the problem was initiated by the improper removal/install of the mounting nut.

Alex Sol

thanks for the comments and proves there are rednecks in Canada also!! and going to be more with President Trump (Doh!!) Okay. Off Topic.

i'll look into the pulley tool and i cannot spin the motor with the 12 point (triple square). engine is too tight to spin it from the belts... perhaps where my timing issues originate..... which i am going to address this weekend.