Motor oil
#1
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I am new to the group and apologize in advance for posting the over done question regarding motor oil.
I have a 90 964 (mostly stock) that will see primarily track time in northern California.
The oil options are both abundant and confusing.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 90 964 (mostly stock) that will see primarily track time in northern California.
The oil options are both abundant and confusing.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
#3
IHI KING!
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Be sure to select an oil with a high level of ZDDP. Some of the popular oils are Brad-Penn, Swepco, Mobil 1 V-twin. Personally, I use the Mobil 1 V-twin in both of my 964's.
#7
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If your car is for track use only, I would spend the little extra and buy
Motul 300V Competition 15w50, best oil out there.
https://m.motul.com/fr/en/products/o...ition-15w50--2
Motul 300V Competition 15w50, best oil out there.
https://m.motul.com/fr/en/products/o...ition-15w50--2
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#8
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic 15w50 and a Mahle oil filter. Lots of opinions on oil and in no way am I being cheap, but it doesn't hurt that 5qt jugs of this stuff is on sale at Walmart for $15-20 each from time to time
#9
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If your car is for track use only, I would spend the little extra and buy
Motul 300V Competition 15w50, best oil out there.
https://m.motul.com/fr/en/products/o...ition-15w50--2
Motul 300V Competition 15w50, best oil out there.
https://m.motul.com/fr/en/products/o...ition-15w50--2
Thinking about changing my oil to Motul
#12
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Be careful with standard Mobil 1. I ran that for a long time and ignored the warnings in 2006 when the EPA forced the oil companies to change their recipes for engine oil. What I learned later is that the standard Mobil 1 has 800 ppm of ZDDP where as the V-twin has 1800. When I rebuilt my engine, I discovered galling on my cams. My machinist told me that was a result of using oil with low ZDDP.
#13
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If I were looking for a car, and finally found one that wasn't coming from an unscrupulous flipper that had thrown away all the meticulously held records from the previous owner, and the well meaning previous owner showed me he had changed the oil religiously with Mobil 1 the entire life of the car....id smile and start to have nightmares of cam lobe wear, and think to myself how much the top end rebuild is going to cost me...
What was once a very good synthetic oil, is no longer s good synthetic oil. Sorry to say. But our lovely government mandated out the zinc and phosphorus from our motor oil and from that point on, anyone using oil without zddp, was adding massive wear to all parts of the motor where two pieces of metal come together and particularly large flat areas meeting under pressure, like cams and tappets.
So...whatever oil you choose, the key is, don't believe the marketing, you can't get the type of oil from Porsche's 1992 "approved" list, because oil was different back then, and listen to the experts...buy oil with the right viscosity and the correct amount of zinc and phosphorus. Or your motor with eat itself...slowly...but it will...
What was once a very good synthetic oil, is no longer s good synthetic oil. Sorry to say. But our lovely government mandated out the zinc and phosphorus from our motor oil and from that point on, anyone using oil without zddp, was adding massive wear to all parts of the motor where two pieces of metal come together and particularly large flat areas meeting under pressure, like cams and tappets.
So...whatever oil you choose, the key is, don't believe the marketing, you can't get the type of oil from Porsche's 1992 "approved" list, because oil was different back then, and listen to the experts...buy oil with the right viscosity and the correct amount of zinc and phosphorus. Or your motor with eat itself...slowly...but it will...
#14
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When this inquiry comes up, I usually chime in with Mobil 1 Product Guide (see attached).
I have been using Mobil 1 15/50 for 8 years. It is made for cars, like ours, with flat tappets. You can also find Mobil 1 V-twin in the list which has elevated levels of zinc and phosphorous.
Not sure what levels are really necessary. Also not sure when too much of a good thing becomes detrimental. However, I just had an engine reseal that included top end work. Tech said cams and rockers were just fine. No track time on car during my ownership.
Given all this, I'd listen to guys who have heavily tracked their cars and then rebuilt them as they would have direct experience with what works and what doesn't.
Good luck,
Dan
I have been using Mobil 1 15/50 for 8 years. It is made for cars, like ours, with flat tappets. You can also find Mobil 1 V-twin in the list which has elevated levels of zinc and phosphorous.
Not sure what levels are really necessary. Also not sure when too much of a good thing becomes detrimental. However, I just had an engine reseal that included top end work. Tech said cams and rockers were just fine. No track time on car during my ownership.
Given all this, I'd listen to guys who have heavily tracked their cars and then rebuilt them as they would have direct experience with what works and what doesn't.
Good luck,
Dan
#15
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Wow Mobil 1 15/50 has way more than the lower viscosity versions...interesting. Above 1200 ppm is fine for our cars...fyi...so that version, and vtwin and the racing oils, as far as zddp is concerned, are fine...it's the oils with zddp below 1k ppm you gotta start to worry about.
Thanks for posting that. It's good info to have.
For me, regardless, I buy brad penn. it's 80 dollars for a case online and that gives me an oil change and a couple liters left over. So all good.
But, if I found a case or a couple gallons of any of those suitable Mobil 1 oils, I'd probably grab them just to save a few bucks...
Thanks for posting that. It's good info to have.
For me, regardless, I buy brad penn. it's 80 dollars for a case online and that gives me an oil change and a couple liters left over. So all good.
But, if I found a case or a couple gallons of any of those suitable Mobil 1 oils, I'd probably grab them just to save a few bucks...