Replacing the crank reference sensor
#16
Instructor
I did this job on my car recently. Since doing it I was told by my local Porsche indy that they use a sensor from a 928 to retain the original connector. Not sure if completely accurate but may be helpful?
After the initial fitting, I had problems with the plug connector and ended up redoing it. I decided to solder the wires to the pins rather than just crimping. This cured my random starting issues, and the car runs sweet now.
After the initial fitting, I had problems with the plug connector and ended up redoing it. I decided to solder the wires to the pins rather than just crimping. This cured my random starting issues, and the car runs sweet now.
#17
Racer
And backitoff, if I redo the connection I'm going to solder it instead of crimping.
Went with crimping this first time around.
When you redid it, did you have to cut the wires again or were you able to pull the connectors out of the housing?
#18
Instructor
Thanks John. I'll check my connection again. As for the gap, I don't see how I could check the gap. Not enough room to get my hands up in there if I could.
And backitoff, if I redo the connection I'm going to solder it instead of crimping.
Went with crimping this first time around.
When you redid it, did you have to cut the wires again or were you able to pull the connectors out of the housing?
And backitoff, if I redo the connection I'm going to solder it instead of crimping.
Went with crimping this first time around.
When you redid it, did you have to cut the wires again or were you able to pull the connectors out of the housing?
#19
Racer
Thanks backitoff. I'll be redoing it.
I checked my wiring and the right colored wires are attached to the right pins, but I'm still not getting it to start.
This was one thing to fix that could have caused my no start problem. I'll check the other things first then return to this connector.
I checked my wiring and the right colored wires are attached to the right pins, but I'm still not getting it to start.
This was one thing to fix that could have caused my no start problem. I'll check the other things first then return to this connector.
#20
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Epsom, England
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I bought this part recently, looks to have the original connector. The price varies massively but I got one from Germany for about €120.
https://infopart.org/bosch-0261210059-part
https://infopart.org/bosch-0261210059-part
#22
Racer
Bringing this back up again...
I've sorted out the rest of my electrical issues in my car involving my non start problem after a car wash.
I've also determined that my old multi-meter was a pile of crap, so I bought a new one and low and behold, I'm not getting any signal from the sensor to the DME under my seat.
I tested that by looking for 12v at pins 47 & 48 on the harness leading into the DME. I get nothing.
So, how do I properly test the new sensor because now I'm worried I have either a defective one or not the right one, or a poorly installed one.
How do I determine the following:
-which wire is the Power Circuit.
-which wire is the Ground Circuit.
-which wire is the Signal Wire.
From the diagram on the earlier page of this thread, which sensor shown, is the reference sensor? Guessing the last one on the bottom?
Thanks!!!
I've sorted out the rest of my electrical issues in my car involving my non start problem after a car wash.
I've also determined that my old multi-meter was a pile of crap, so I bought a new one and low and behold, I'm not getting any signal from the sensor to the DME under my seat.
I tested that by looking for 12v at pins 47 & 48 on the harness leading into the DME. I get nothing.
So, how do I properly test the new sensor because now I'm worried I have either a defective one or not the right one, or a poorly installed one.
How do I determine the following:
-which wire is the Power Circuit.
-which wire is the Ground Circuit.
-which wire is the Signal Wire.
From the diagram on the earlier page of this thread, which sensor shown, is the reference sensor? Guessing the last one on the bottom?
Thanks!!!
Last edited by klokwerk; 04-11-2016 at 06:19 PM.
#23
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Bringing this back up again...
I've sorted out the rest of my electrical issues in my car involving my non start problem after a car wash.
I've also determined that my old multi-meter was a pile of crap, so I bought a new one and low and behold, I'm not getting any signal from the sensor to the DME under my seat.
I tested that by looking for 12v at pins 47 & 48 on the harness leading into the DME. I get nothing.
So, how do I properly test the new sensor because now I'm worried I have either a defective one or not the right one, or a poorly installed one.
Can I test for signal from the connector coming out of the sensor directly? What should those voltages be at the pins? And which pins?
Thanks!!!
I've sorted out the rest of my electrical issues in my car involving my non start problem after a car wash.
I've also determined that my old multi-meter was a pile of crap, so I bought a new one and low and behold, I'm not getting any signal from the sensor to the DME under my seat.
I tested that by looking for 12v at pins 47 & 48 on the harness leading into the DME. I get nothing.
So, how do I properly test the new sensor because now I'm worried I have either a defective one or not the right one, or a poorly installed one.
Can I test for signal from the connector coming out of the sensor directly? What should those voltages be at the pins? And which pins?
Thanks!!!
I guess you could test this at the connector in the engine bay too to eliminate a harness issue.
Check the DME is powered on ignition too by checking for 12v at pin 37.
#24
Racer
Thanks NateSaJack for that info.
Do you happen to know what voltages on what pins in the engine bay at the harness connection I should be getting?
I want to make sure that I've got all the bases covered here.
Do you happen to know what voltages on what pins in the engine bay at the harness connection I should be getting?
I want to make sure that I've got all the bases covered here.
#25
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Sorry Klockwerk didn't see your Q.
The images on page one show the sensor connector, look for AC v there, if its the same as at the DME connector then I guess you have no issues in the harness.
The images on page one show the sensor connector, look for AC v there, if its the same as at the DME connector then I guess you have no issues in the harness.
#28
Professor of Pending Projects
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Let me stop by and see if I can still get one. I bought all the parts to do the upgrade, but if I can avoid having to change the plug in the car's harness, even better.
Thank you for the information!
Last edited by Wachuko; 04-16-2016 at 04:28 PM.
#29
Racer
Too bad I've already cut the harness connection and upgraded the plug to the oval.
Good news is I can confirm that my connections are good with voltage and continuity checks.
Today, I was finally able to measure the distance from the tip of the new sensor to the flywheel teeth and it's just a hair over 2mm. This is outside of spec so I'm going to adjust and remeasure then test again.
Hopefully that will bring an end to my crank position sensor dilemma.
#30
Racer
Thanks John, Nate and others! I'm positive I've got the new sensor and connector working right.
All of the voltages at the testable locations look good and I'm positive I've got the gap set correctly.
Unfortunately I'm still not getting spark to my plugs. I'll continue my investigation in my other thread about no start after car wash.
Thanks again and sorry I'm a slow learner!
All of the voltages at the testable locations look good and I'm positive I've got the gap set correctly.
Unfortunately I'm still not getting spark to my plugs. I'll continue my investigation in my other thread about no start after car wash.
Thanks again and sorry I'm a slow learner!