mystert

I've called the usual places trying to find a set of clutch pedal bushings for my 92 C2 and they seem to be special order from Germany only. Part number is 999-924-080-00. Does anyone have these in stock in USA? Is this the correct part number even? I found it in this thread-

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...t-numbers.html


Id love to get my car back together this week but I've only been quoted 2 week delivery times. The brake pedal bushings and the roll pin are available just not the clutch bushings. Mine are grooved and pitted and I would prefer to replace them now that the cluster is out.


Secondly how do you get the tube that contains the bushings out of the pedal box? I've undone the screw and pried on the flange a bit and it only bent it. Lightly tap it from the other side with a hammer? Thanks

Rocket Rob

Have you talked to Sunset Porsche? When I was in a hurry to get parts that were in Germany, they were able to fly them in for a 20% surcharge.

As for how to disassemble the pedal assembly, you need to remove the clutch pedal roll pin, which will free up the clutch pedal, once you have that off, the brake pedal will slide out to expose the bushings. Do you have a copy of PET? The exploded view is on 702-00.

cobalt

FYI getting the roll pin out of the assembly can be a PITA. Can make for a very frustrating job. I did one and the only way to do it was to drill out the roll pin. It was frozen in place and even trying a press did not work. Major work and needed a special long bit to access it. You might try attacking the pin removal now since you have it out already.

Goughary

Here's a rollpin question. I was thinking about this recently since mine needs to be done again. And I have a friend in need of a rollpin as well.

First, babalouie replaced his rollpin a few years back with a bolt and nylock nut. Any reason to not do that? I was thinking that as long as it doesn't hit anything, should be ok till the bolt makes the hole through the clutch rod elongate...

Second. I'm on my third or fourth rollpin in five years, with this last one lasting most of that time...is there a way that the rollpin needs to be oriented in order to not begin to tear and subsequently fail?

Any ideas?

cobalt

How do you shear the roll pin?

Rocket Rob

I've had my roll pin shear. In my case, the cause was an error that I did installing the clutch throwout arm causing excess resistance which put a higher stress on the roll pin.

DobermanDad

I saw that write up and planned to do exactly that when I remove and rebuild my pedal cluster over the winter. I'm also going to add the 993 clutch master while i'm at it.

Goughary

I don't know. I just know it keeps breaking. Looks like it starts to crush and tear in the center and then it collapses. Either way. These things are terrible. There must be a way to do this better. Or maybe there is a better supplier for a steel rollpin than Porsche. Not all steel is the same.

Goughary

Can you explain? Or show a pic. I don't understand...

DobermanDad

What size it the roll pin?

mystert

Well I was able to take it all apart with a hammer and a few other tools. Turns out the previous owner replaced the clutch bushings with custom made bronze ones and the brake pedal bushings looked relatively new so I no longer need the bushings. I used a Metric Coiled Spring Pin, Steel, M6 Diameter, 30mm Length, from McMaster Carr. The pin material was a little thinner than the stock Porsche pin I removed and was about 2mm longer as well. The car has been transformed by replacing this tiny little pin. Clutch action is so smooth combined with the new slave/master/flex hose/fluid flush & bleed.

As far as spring pins are concerned, they do not require a precisely machined hole, are low cost, easy to install, and generally used in applications that do not require frequent disassembly. This probably factored into Porsche using this over a solid dowel pin (requires precision reamed hole which is more expensive) or a bolt (more expensive than a pin for an application that shouldn't need disassembly). As an engineer myself, cost is often a major factor in engineering decisions. This pin if it were to fail, it would fail way outside the warranty period and is not their problem anymore. I don't see a problem using a bolt or solid pin of some sort. It is solid and more stout than the spring pin currently used. Its not about strength because the current pin is obviously not strong enough and breaks frequently.

DobermanDad

Nice! Can't wait to do this project over the winter.

cobalt

It should be hardened steel but that can also make it brittle. If you want to give me a size I have hundreds of assorted sizes top quality USA made from back in the 50's when it meant something. I would be happy to send you some. Sometimes when I find issues like this either a solid piece works or I like to use a slightly undersized pin with a smaller pin inserted into the larger one to spread it out to give it added strength.

mystert

I know of the bearing bronze bushes for the older style assembly didn't know they made them for the newer cars. I have a set for my SC I had floating around here someplace. I would be curious if it is the same. It is a nice upgrade. Any Pictures

mystert

Sorry but no pictures of the bushings. The bronze bushings looked like something custom made. They were a split bushing with a flange and were in there mighty tight. It looks as if the previous owner installed a the proper OD bushing for the tube and then bored the ID out to fit the 18mm dia clutch pedal shaft. All the 18mm ID bushings from McMasterCarr look to have too large of an outer diameter to work in our application.

Goughary

That's interesting. I always wanted to get a bronze bushing set for mine .

I'm pretty sure, however that if you still out a bronze bushing, they are sintered and need to then be boiled in oil to re-impregnate the bronze with lube. That's what we did making turntable bearings...I would imagine the same applies here since the bearing would be the same material...