John McM

Will do. I think I will replace the inner tie rod with the FVD product and outer tie rod with lemforder. I already have new ball joints to fit. Past that I'm not sure what you can do.

911Jetta

I'm looking to sharpen up the steering too. I'm about to install the Elephant Racing Bump Steer Kit (solid inners) and Rennline HD ball joints (from their new High Density Line of Bushings and Mounts)
http://www.rennline.com/newssection.asp?dept=1185

(Their website says: Sport durometer pieces offer an increase in stiffness of approximately 25% over factory replacements)

Already have the steering rack brace and bushings.

Marine Blue

Udo definitely post back your findings after installation. I have the control arm bushings and the steering rack bushings on mine and it helped immensely. I also installed new inner OE tie rods and a new steering rack for reference.

Peteinjp

I have wondered if the steering feel isn’t also simply a result of such a light front end. Even my 1973 bmw with stock rubber bushings (sport suspension) gives a sharper feeling. To be clear though it’s not as if the 964 doesn’t turn well- it’s just a bit vague in the in terms of feedback- though the C4 May be different.

You might try playing with the toe settings a bit. A small adjustment can be noticeable.

Pete

John McM

I replaced the front sway bar mount bolts and decided I would complete my road trip as is to see whether it's a real issue to solve or just a factor of advances in handling between 1990 and 2010. I wonder if part of it is related to 17" versus 19" wheels?

I also decided to remove the Function First Transmission Mount stiffener to see if it reduces vibration through the gear lever. I'm not yet convinced that the mount is a source of slack in the system.

911Jetta

Black insert? That's Function First's track mount right

From FF's website: "TRACK (80A) Black - for optimized performance on track and racecars where NVH is not a consideration"

I can definitely say their SOFT (60A) Orange version doesn't add noticeable vibration.

John McM

Yes, it is. My post isn’t a criticism of the product, more its suitability for my use, which is my choice.

John McM

I checked the front suspension top mounts. One has a visible crack.

John McM

Luckily I have a new aftermarket spare ex Design911 and some others removed from a C2 seven years ago. I removed the struts and will get these done at a shop. They have a simple machine that will have them done in 5 minutes.

John McM

With the struts out I decided to renew the inner and outer tie rods plus the ball joints. I marked the eccentric bolt

John McM

I had the ball joints in stock and have the outer tie rods coming from Pelican. The inner tie rods have been ordered from FVD. My biggest issue now is that the old balljoints don't want to come out. I've used a pitman tool but it's a tight space. Light heat gun use didn't work either. Time to buy a better tool.

John McM

Some days you are the statue and some days you are the pigeon.

The visible shaft on the new ball joint measures approximately 19mm so the jaws on the pitman tool slide easily on it BUT the shaft is tapered and the point on the original ball joint where it goes into the hub measures 21.5mm so the tool can’t fit directly under the shoulder of the hub, instead it slides down the recess on the shaft. That means that the tool is not connecting correctly under the hub shoulder and I'm effectively squeezing the ball joint shaft not leveraging the shaft against the hub. I need to buy a tool with a 22mm jaw. Time for a coffee and slice of humble pie.

2swoosh

Labor of love! can't wait to see her back on the road/track I envy your wrenching skills OP! getrrrrr done!

John McM

I figured the ball joint spreader would not be used often so I modified the jaws to 22mm with a Dremel. One ball joint came out with little fuss. The other one came out with a bang. No damage to the hub so onwards. The pic here clearly shows the taper on the shaft.

John McM

FVD inner tie rods arrived. I should have realised that I wouldn't need the shaft on the outer tie rod. On the other hand I should have ordered new bellows and the spacers for larger wheels to stop wheel rub. All ready for installation.

NB: There is no discernible movement in the original tie rods and ball joints so I'm not sure if the strut top mounts were the sole issue. In fact the inner tie rods are so tight they seem to bind. If nothing else I've taken out 29 year old components and future proofed the car for a time I may no longer be inclined to DIY.