Next up is the timing chain cover. Fit the gasket dry and torque the nuts to 25 Nm

The chain ramps are fitted after the covers are in. Each is held in with a pin. Torque to 31 Nm. NB while the previous builder had used Loctite 574 on these I figured the Aluminium washer was enough so installed them dry.

Insert cams greased with assembly lube then fit the gasket and sealing plate / o ring.

As I'm finding, there is no consistency with engine builders choice of sealants e.g. the previous builder used Loctite 574 on the gasket and nothing on the o ring whereas Wayne's rebuild book uses Curil T on the gasket and o ring.

I decided to follow the P fix it DVD with a dry gasket and Dow 111 on the o ring.

Progressively tighten the three bolts to get the o ring to seat evenly then apply a final torque of 10 Nm.

The oil bridge is simple. More Dow 111 on the three o rings (2 thick ones on the insert and one thin one on the timing chain cover) , push the insert into place, then the bridge and tighten to 10 Nm

Valve covers on just for protection. It's starting to look like an engine again.

Looking good, John !!!

+1 .... Making it look easy ... Did you document for rocker installation, original rocker pin locations? Did you opt to use RS rocker seals or not? Cam timings next, great progress...

Tonight I will install the rockers on the intakes for Cylinders 1 & 4 (no to RSR seals), plus make a chain tensioner out of a brake pad spreader. Then I'm ready for cam timing, albeit I will check the chain parallelism first, just in case (it should be correct as I put back what was already there).

I'm so glad I checked the timing before disassembling the motor. It's a sanity check that it has normal cams etc and I wont get any surprise results. Famous last words!

I did same before removing chains to get readings... My left cam was 1.39? and right was 1.28 kind of thing.. I set both to 1.26 with spreader and checked again with tensioners installed. I did not bleed tensioners for that exercise, don't know if that would matter.

My question on rocker install was to know if the rocker thru bolt can be improperly installed off center or do they fit only one way left to right for each rocker before tightened?

I'm not game to try misfitting the rocker bolt. I'll let someone else work it out, however I can't see how it would work logistically.

Checking chain parallelism.

Set pulley to Z1 lining it up with the case seam. Insert washer with the bevel side facing the cylinder. Add shims (2 in my case).

Rotate both cams until the key slots are facing up.

Insert woodruff keys in the slots.

Insert internal sprockets over keys.

Place sprockets and chains on cams.

Insert dowels into the holes where they best fit (use spark plug thread to hold the dowels).

Insert bolts and tighten to 30Nm using the special tool. NB That is a temporary torque setting.

Test the chain parallelism as per manual.

With the chain parallelism checked it's time to fit the intermediate shaft cover

A thick layer of Dow 111 on the o ring and the flange. Torque bolts to 10Nm.

A nice flush fit compared to the old ball peened Ill fitting cover I started with. This was the source of one of my leaks.

Time for the pulley.

Clean the crankshaft taper and pulley area with rubbing alcohol. Smear light oil on the pulley bolt. Hold with the special tool and torque to 235Nm. Yes that's correct.

Install tappets/followers on cylinders 1 & 4. Torque to 20 Nm.

Adjust intake valve clearance on cylinder one to 0.1mm with the Kirk tool