John McM

Use a smaller diameter plastic pipe to push the o ring fully into the channel.

John McM

Place the washer over the bolt end.

John McM

Place the nut over the bolt end

John McM

Torque the nut to 50 Nm while holding the other end still.

John McM

Repeat 12 times more and you get a victory pose as well.

John McM

To celebrate I took the Silver C4 for a drive. Is there any better 964 for these conditions? No there isn't. I love these cars.

Super90

Great work, John!!

C4inLA

Looks like a well organized assembly line. Your pics also make clear what many have suggested that my through bolt o-rings (5-6 on your case) are probably source of my evasive leak.

On your way to a DRY engine!

C4inLA

With all the forum discussions on through-bolts and o-rings, having done the job yourself was it an intuitive type process and that one can tell the o-rings have seated properly both sides?

John McM

I did some experimenting beforehand with the old o rings and they appeared to seat ok. They sit in a machined channel and the washer holds them in. You can't see this happening on the bolt end where they are pre assembled but you can on the other end where the plastic tube pushes them firmly in the channel. I like the Molykote 111 sealant as it should aid sealing as well. However the proof will be whether the engine is dry after starting. I have my doubts it will be totally dry first time but I hope there's no leaks on these bolts as they would be hard to get to.

John McM

Marker numbers removed from the through bolt holes, oil pressure relief valves fitted, sump plug fitted as was the plug next to the oil pressure sensor. Finally I fitted tape to various foreign object attracting orifices. Next up is deglazing the cylinder bores with detergent and a scotchbrite, fitting piston rings, and inserting pistons into cylinders.

BTW I'm not sure what that weird washer was for the oil pressure relief valve. I fitted a normal one to it.

John McM

Rings installed with fingers (I have the tool but this way felt lower risk). Each ring is clearly marked with 'Top' and the order is clear.

John McM

Pistons installed in cylinders.

I washed the bores with dishwashing liquid and a scotchbrite pad. Then I lubricated the bore and piston walls with running in oil.

The reason I wrote on the ring compressor is that it's made for 'normal' cars where the piston is inserted from the top. This means that the side marked 'bottom' is where the compressor compresses the rings most. I want that on the top because I'm inserting the piston from the bottom. I only used hand pressure to push the piston in.

John McM

Pistons ready for the next step. I am traveling again so I left the oil on the bores. Before I put them on the engine I will wipe as much oil off as possible as I want the rings to bed in.

John McM

Right from the start I believed that the leaks were coming from the Nose bearing AND the Intermediate Shaft cover. Someone had taken to the latter with a ball peen hammer. Covering the area with a sealant revealed where oil was forcing itself out from.

I bought a new cover and received a tip on making the case / cover gap better. It involved using an oil stone. I did that today whilst being extremely careful not to allow metal shavings to enter the cover area. Eventually I will use Threebond 1104 to seal the flange. I can't do it now as there is a measurement to take on chain parallelism when those are installed.