C4inLA

I agree ... it can get quickly out of hand. I have better things to do for the car than beautify exhaust components.. I am planning engine out first week of April. Got stand, yoke, buying tools, dial gauge, lubes, etc. Bought a sissor lift last summer, lift table, stay tuned...

John McM

Make sure you post progress.

John McM

Not a lot of progress this week, although some interesting developments.

I removed the clutch and flywheel. Both will go back in the car as is, although I will use new flywheel bolts and replace one of the needle bearings.

I also removed the cam chain covers and used the special tool to undo the bolts. Too easy

At that point I stopped as I noticed that the cylinders were out of stamped order. I assume they were stamped by the Machine shop. A pity the person reassembling the engine couldn't put cylinders 1 and 2 in their correct order.

At this point I stopped and rang an expert I trust. He told me that it doesn't impact on the engine as long as the respective pistons went back in their original cylinders. Who knows with this engine?

I have entered into negotiations with the OPC that rebuilt the engine, especially as info came to light that they knew it was leaking after the rebuild and tried the RTV fix. As a friend said, this is where Businesses show their true culture. It doesn't look promising right now.

John McM

Cylinder 2 running the hottest of the six and cylinder 5 running oily

C4inLA

Knowledge is power and nothing beats inspecting state of parts and pieces yourself. I would do an "as is" cam timing process before removing those sprockets just to see where your at?

If you don't want to do it, perhaps you can take short block to OPC for split of case and reseal, you do everything after? Isn't there a check the machinist does to the case halves that check and correct for warpage and alignment of case halves and webbing? Gonna be interesting when you inspect that Oring condition, what if it looks new?

You're going to learn a lot either way

John McM

Good idea on the timing. I just watched the p fix it DVD section on timing. I've told the OPC that it's either long block or nothing. Truth be told I'd like the comfort of seeing this through myself and knowing exactly what's what.

John McM

As I had loosened all of the valve adjusters in anticipation of removing the camshafts I had to readjust the intake valve on cylinder one. Very simple with the Kirk tool.

Turn the pulley clockwise until the number one cylinder is tdc with both valves closed. This is marked with the Z1 mark on the pulley, but beware that it takes 720 degrees of engine turn to complete a full cycle. In other words turning the pulley to Z1 is not enough, it needs to be the Z1 on the compression stroke.

Place the tool on the valve screw with the other end sitting on the rocker ridge. Turn the tool **** clockwise until finger tight. This is setting a nil or reference gap. Move the indicator to a line mark. Then turn the **** anti clockwise 36 degrees to the first 0.1mm mark. Turn the lock nut clockwise to preserve the setting. Finished.

The pitch of the screw means that turning the **** 36 degrees gives a 0.1mm gap. NB it's not necessary to hold the middle screw as long as you observe it doesn't move while tightening the nut.

Btw the third photo is out of sequence. I'll edit the post when I get to a desktop.

John McM

With the valve adjusted, leave the pulley where it is and put the z block and dial indicator on the intake valve cover stud. Use a valve cover nut to retain it. The end of the dial arm should rest on the valve collet. NB my dial indicator needed to be lifted off the case to give full travel. I did that with a couple of valve cover washers. Zero the dial indicator

John McM

Remove the cam retainer bolt and check that the mark is on the top side. When checked, replace the bolt.

John McM

Turn the pulley clockwise while watching the dial indicator. Just as it gets close to a full revolution you will see the dial indicator move. You want to move the pulley until the dial moves 1.26mm (one full rotation and another 26 marks). Stop there and look at the pulley. If the Z1 reference mark aligns with the case join then timing is correct. Mine was spot on.

C4inLA

Kirk tool looks interesting, however, every time I set lash on valves, the screw moves and has to be held. I have three steps, back side then the standard tool from WSM to give me sanity check. I then go through full six crank positions (12 tappets) and better feel some play.

Timing looks straight forward. Could you help with my questions;

A). True TDC on our cars has Cyl 1 & 4 as overlap (Both at TDC at Z1).

B.) When doing the cam timing for Cyl 4 with intake lash set at 1.0mm, do you begin and zero dial gauge at Z1 for Cyl 1 or Z1 360 degrees further when Cyl 4 is only at Z1 ?

John McM

The P fix it DVD starts off directly on the other cam timing without suggesting the pulley is moved. It puts the dial on cylinder 4, zeros it and then measures for 1.26mm on the first turn of the pulley. If the dial reads that with the Z1 mark lining up with the case join then it's perfectly timed.

To be clear, cylinder 1 and 4 measurements for 1.26mm are 360 degrees apart.

C4inLA

Sounds intuitive and sure will make perfect sense when I try the process in near future, thanks...

John McM

I did it and it was correct. One 360 turn brings cylinder 4 to 1.26mm. My car was correctly timed

ffc

The Kirk tool is very good but i find I still need three hands when I am adjusting valves under the car when it's on axle stands. Having a mate help reduces the job time and frustration levels considerably.