964 C4 light refurb
#456
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,315
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Yes, I put it together from a kit bought from the Deutsche Museum in Munich. Rather bizarrely it wasn't in stock at the Porsche Museum.
It has a timing setting and a distributor feed off the cam that should fire the cylinders in the same order as a real engine. I haven't checked the order to see if it's correct. The spark is simulated by lights.
It has a timing setting and a distributor feed off the cam that should fire the cylinders in the same order as a real engine. I haven't checked the order to see if it's correct. The spark is simulated by lights.
#457
On balance if I ever get the motivation to take apart the interior again, perhaps I will fit the leather b-pillar covers that I have.
Did this end up being as easy as it looks? I can imagine two things going wrong --
a) B-pillar covers need padding in the rear, which might be hard to get looking smooth.
b) the metal substrate might bend/warp while removing the old cover...
Did any of this happen to you?
Thanks
#458
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,315
Likes: 652
From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Originally Posted by Jlaa
Ah, I chickened out and didn't recover the B-pillars. Even though I had the leather to re-cover the B-pillars, I lost patience at this stage of the project and had a pro come over and re-dye the vinyl B-pillar covers in-situ. It looks very good.
On balance if I ever get the motivation to take apart the interior again, perhaps I will fit the leather b-pillar covers that I have.
Did this end up being as easy as it looks? I can imagine two things going wrong --
a) B-pillar covers need padding in the rear, which might be hard to get looking smooth.
b) the metal substrate might bend/warp while removing the old cover...
Did any of this happen to you?
Thanks
On balance if I ever get the motivation to take apart the interior again, perhaps I will fit the leather b-pillar covers that I have.
Did this end up being as easy as it looks? I can imagine two things going wrong --
a) B-pillar covers need padding in the rear, which might be hard to get looking smooth.
b) the metal substrate might bend/warp while removing the old cover...
Did any of this happen to you?
Thanks
They look simple enough, just vinyl with foam backing. In fact that was the problem with repairing what I had. When they rip, they expose the foam backing so filling the resultant hole is difficult. I want those parts to be perfect as I think they will stand out next to perfect seats if I don't go new.
Last edited by John McM; 09-29-2016 at 02:41 AM.
#459
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
Arrived back in New Zealand after 3 weeks in Europe. Still jet lagged so not doing anything requiring mental agility so I checked parts that arrived while I was away.
First up was the correct front badge. Attached is a pic (from the left) of the original, the replacement, and a new 996 one. You can clearly see the 996 version is incorrect. In addition the 996 version is flat whereas the correct 901 part is slightly curved.
First up was the correct front badge. Attached is a pic (from the left) of the original, the replacement, and a new 996 one. You can clearly see the 996 version is incorrect. In addition the 996 version is flat whereas the correct 901 part is slightly curved.
#463
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
As indicated earlier, I have had difficulty sourcing an original leather four spoke non air bag wheel for a reasonable price. In the end I got lucky and bought a wheel off a '88 928 and it is to all intents the same wheel (same part number, just one is 01VERL and the other 02VERL). The only thing missing is the horn contact ring, which I believe is a shared VW/Porsche part number 113-415-660-A.
#464
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Auckland, New Zealand.
I arrived back from work travel determined to focus on getting the car mobile. That meant tackling the rear shocks and springs.
Removal was relatively easy. Take out the air filter on one side and heater fan on the other, undo the three top nuts on each shock tower and the bottom bolts, then remove carefully.
The springs were not under compression and the top bolt was easy to undo. Nothing like the fronts.
The most obvious wear was on the bump stops, but these are likely original shocks deserving of retirement after 237,000km
Removal was relatively easy. Take out the air filter on one side and heater fan on the other, undo the three top nuts on each shock tower and the bottom bolts, then remove carefully.
The springs were not under compression and the top bolt was easy to undo. Nothing like the fronts.
The most obvious wear was on the bump stops, but these are likely original shocks deserving of retirement after 237,000km