John McM

Unwelcome news. The transmission rebuild has hit a hitch in that I now need the other diff clutch pack replaced. Not overly expensive but one part is on a 13 day back order. The leisurely engine/transmission reinstall will have to happen after work at night, which will slow things down.

92833272800 4 EUR 58 EUR 231
99920143500 1 EUR 106 EUR 106
92833272605 1 EUR 12 EUR 12
92833272606 1 EUR 16 EUR 16
92833272607 1 EUR 16 EUR 16
92833272608 1 EUR 16 EUR 16
92833272609 1 EUR 29 EUR 29
92833272610 1 EUR 87 EUR 87
Freight 1 EUR 95 EUR 95
Total EUR 608

DobermanDad

It'll all be worth it when you're done though!

John McM

Part of the fun of a refurb is shopping. Yesterday I visited a tool seller and came away with a couple of 3/4" impact sockets to do the wheel nuts and pulley. A digital caliper, a small plastic mallet and some PB Blaster. The latter was a surprise as I had never seen it for sale in New Zealand and it's talked about in almost every US thread on removing difficult bolts etc.

The other visit was to fibreglass (fiberglass) shop. My Techart splitter has more splits than intended. I love talking to tradies that share their tips. All going well it will be brought back to usable condition with a carbon fibre lay up for the visual part. The only issue may be if this is truly an ABS part as not much adheres to it.

John McM

I hope so. This is the oldest and least powerful Porsche I have owned, plus is getting up there on spend, but it still puts a smile on my dial. No logic at all in that except I like it.

John McM

More parts have arrived. A now surplus 3/4 guide sleeve (managed to find a new one even though they are on back order from Germany) and a transmission gasket set.

John McM

A local Rennlister (Racoguy) welded the Rennline engine carrier reinforcement. Very happy with the quality of the kit and fitting. It's off to powder coating next.

John McM

Another day and more progress. I fitted the Tom Amon nose bearing sleeve. The car was leaking oil underneath the pulley and this kit should fix that

John McM

Decided to tackle the clutch and flywheel tonight. Clutch is fine, however I'm not so sure about the RMS. Should the flywheel edge be oily if the RMS is leaking?

John McM

An executive decision has been made: the RMS won't be replaced. The rear of the flywheel was dry and no obvious leaks from the RMS. Instead I will deal to the oil pressure sender as that's more likely the source of the oil. A slight problem putting the flywheel and clutch back on. The bolts I ordered in both cases are the wrong ones.

John McM

Rather than buy a new set of pedals I have sent the Gemballa set off to be reanodised

John McM

Thanks to Racoguy for fitting the Rennline engine carrier reinforcement kit and getting it powder coated, along with some engine tin.

John McM

Flywheel fitted with new bolts torqued to 66ft/lbs (90Nm) and clutch pressure plate torqued to 17ft/lbs (23 Nm). The latter was fun as the torque wrench for this low level was 1/4" and the 6mm hex socket was 3/8". I had to source a female 1/4" to male 3/8". As you can see I used the clutch guide tool.

John McM

I've always wanted to play with Carbon Fibre (Fiber) and the Techart splitter gave me my opportunity. The front edges had multiple cracks and the middle section was almost completely severed. The process is quite involved.

1. Masking tape holds the cracked sections together while epoxy and fibreglass mat is applied.
2. Car bog is then used to recreate the correct curve on the cracked sections
3. Black pigment is mixed with epoxy and covers the whole area. This is important as the under layer can show through with Carbon Fibre.
4. While the epoxy is tacky (not wet), the carbon fibre is laid over the form. This is far more difficult than it looks. The carbon fibre fabric moves on its weave and the minute it hits the epoxy that's it. If you try to pull the material back off the tacky epoxy then it will disrupt the weave and show in the final piece.
5. A layer of clear epoxy is laid over the carbon fibre.
6. When dry, the epoxy is sanded with 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit paper.
7. The final coat is put on. This could be a lacquer but I used another layer of resin. The problem with using resin is that the dry time is > 8 hours and every piece of dust that hits it will show. The upside is that you know it will be resin compatible and not need recoating.

This is a lot of work, but worth it as I like the Techart splitter and my budget is under pressure. The only downside is that any hit will damage my hard work and that's almost certain to happen. If it's a small hit then I can sand back the resin and apply another coat.

DobermanDad

This is quite a project. Those pedals are gonna look great after they are anodized. I've been thinking of powder coating my pedals. They're currently silver, would like to see them black or even red.

John McM

Yes, it is becoming that way. In places I have succumbed to 'while I'm in there' syndrome but in others I have tried to renew rather than replace, particularly where I can learn a new skill.