964 C4 light refurb
#316
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Location: Tennessee
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My footwells kept getting wet,too. Drove me nuts trying to find it. I used colored water to track it down. Finally found it was coming in under windshield washer seals that had been left off after a paint job. Good luck finding yours.
I asked my mechanic to find it and he said we both lose. He feels bad charging his rates to find it and nobody wants to pay that much to find a little water leak!
I asked my mechanic to find it and he said we both lose. He feels bad charging his rates to find it and nobody wants to pay that much to find a little water leak!
#317
My footwells kept getting wet,too. Drove me nuts trying to find it. I used colored water to track it down. Finally found it was coming in under windshield washer seals that had been left off after a paint job. Good luck finding yours.
I asked my mechanic to find it and he said we both lose. He feels bad charging his rates to find it and nobody wants to pay that much to find a little water leak!
I asked my mechanic to find it and he said we both lose. He feels bad charging his rates to find it and nobody wants to pay that much to find a little water leak!
#319
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Thread Starter
That's a front runner. When I have stripped the interior I will stick paper towels to the panels and give it a serious dousing to see where it's coming from (the previous owner may have fixed leaks but not dealt with the trapped water). I think I will use Dynamat and Dynaliner, except for the floor pads which I will remake.
#320
Race Car
progress continues - great thread
just my 2c - dynamat doesn't do much for what it costs ... its the open cell foam that does the (noise reduction, internal calm) work ... also the common hardware store roof flashing which is aluminium with bitumen base is exactly the same as dynamat at 10% of the cost.
this type of thing John
just my 2c - dynamat doesn't do much for what it costs ... its the open cell foam that does the (noise reduction, internal calm) work ... also the common hardware store roof flashing which is aluminium with bitumen base is exactly the same as dynamat at 10% of the cost.
this type of thing John
#321
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@HiWind: I agree with you. I had used the same product from Home Depot and just couldn't imagine how Dynamat would be better. It is just bitumen/tar base... I was thinking of doing the tar roofing product with the foam on top instead of spending $$$ on the original sound deadening. Then track mats from Rennline on top.
Having said that, DynaPad (not any other product) seems to be the better solution for undercarpet insulation.
Having said that, DynaPad (not any other product) seems to be the better solution for undercarpet insulation.
#324
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Back to the project car.
I expect the carpet will take another 3 weeks to arrive so I have time to find those leaks. First I needed to see what is wet. The answer is both footwells and both rear seat bases.
Today I started to remove the rear carpet and foam. Box cutter, WD40 and plastic razors were the tools of choice. It's coming off better than I thought. The diagnosis is full replacement. I will use Dynaliner to replace the foam after I've found out where the leaks are.
I have also had a touch up bottle and spray can made up in my paint code.
I expect the carpet will take another 3 weeks to arrive so I have time to find those leaks. First I needed to see what is wet. The answer is both footwells and both rear seat bases.
Today I started to remove the rear carpet and foam. Box cutter, WD40 and plastic razors were the tools of choice. It's coming off better than I thought. The diagnosis is full replacement. I will use Dynaliner to replace the foam after I've found out where the leaks are.
I have also had a touch up bottle and spray can made up in my paint code.
#329
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Thread Starter
I removed the rear shelf sound pad as it was slightly wet. Lucky I did as I discovered both sunroof drain pipes were disconnected from the drain grommet. Basically the water drains into the rear shelf, not outside. I have no idea how that happened. Maybe someone tried to clear a blockage with a wire from the engine bay and dislodged it?
Last edited by John McM; 06-12-2016 at 06:44 AM.
#330
Race Car
We just went through the the same thing. Luckily the headliner was coming out, so that made it easy to resolve. A little silicone on the tubes and they won't be coming off again. You can get to the tubes in front by taking out the sunroof and rails, and very carefully in wrapping the headliner from around the inside of the sunroof hole. Then re-glue with contact adhesive. For the rear you go in blind through the zipper.