tdiquattro

This is one of my favourite threads John! I just don't post anything because I don't want to interrupt the flow of the thread! but honestly, thanks for all the effort, posting updates, adding detailed photos, brilliant

I do have one question, how did you order the Tom Amon nose bearing sleeve? is there a contact email address? need to fit one on mine, also exactly which adhesive/sealant did you use please?

Thanks again, Nigel.

John McM

Nigel, cheers for the encouragement.

Here is Tom's page http://www.mobileworkswest.com

There is only one way to order, by phone, which was a lot of fun from New Zealand, but it got here despite having to decipher the accents to get the address right.

I used the JB Weld Tom supplied. It seems to work ok so far.

John McM

Throttle situation sorted. There are three movable adjustments in the mechanism and I had moved two so I followed my base rule to check where I have been and I saw two problems.

1. I had to undo the two bolts at the far right of the assembly to get the new carpet section in. I hadn't tightened it up squarely and the front edge was binding on the throttle action.

2. I had too much slack in the adjustment just before the throttle enters the tube.

When I rectified those two I had clear activation of the idle and wot microswitches. I didn't attempt to adjust the screw behind the pedal (second image) as that wasn't touched during the rebuild.

I also checked that I have full throttle movement. I checked this at the four stages: no boards, board in, carpet cover in and everything in. That's just to be sure nothing was interfering with the range.

Sorted

John McM

Amazing this throttle action is so reliable given the number of joints. Throttle by wire would be so much easier

John McM

Now we are getting to the final list of fixes. I wasn't altogether happy with the rear indicators. More specifically the lower edges looked rough. In fact it was the dirty surface behind the indicator showing through the clear part.

I used a bit of wax and grease remover, then a thin layer of touch up paint on the edge. It works but in hindsight I should have asked for that area to be painted.

John McM

A longer drive today, refill the gas tank, put another litre of oil in and generally check for leaks etc. The cat and primary bypass mean it's a noisy ride, just like I wanted it to be. Time will tell if I can live with that as a DD. I suspect not.

John McM

...

John McM

So this is what the 'light' refurb looks like now
Replace front control arm bushes
Replace rear spring plates
Replace transmission mount
Fit transmission mount stiffening insert
Replace all spark plugs
Replace oil
Replace power steering fluid
Replace transmission oil
Replace distributor caps and rotors
Replace alternator fan
Place Tom Amon sleeve on nose bearing
Replace rear reflector
Replace lenses on rear indicators
Replace side indicator plastics
Replace rear licence light fittings
Repair cracks in rear bumper, shark fin, and side sill plastics
Replace all 4 rear CV boots and regrease CV joints
Replace two hard clutch lines
Replace flywheel and pressure plate bolts
Fit new bushes and seal to clutch fork
Replace all body seals except window seals
Replace felt window scrapers
Replace all black door and window trim
Replace front portion of carpet
Repair cracks in door pocket screw areas
Replace inner door handles
Replace door sill covers and carpet trim holders
Replace Porsche bonnet emblem
Adjust valve clearance
Replace fuel filter
Re-anodise Gemballa aluminium pedals
Refurb rear shocks
Replace both gearbox diff clutch packs
Replace synchros in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears
Replace third gear set
Replace 3rd/4th gear guide sleeve
Replace dog gear on 4th gear set
Fit reinforcement kits to both door checks
Repair damage from hyper extended driver door
Repair bumps from bonnet closing on over filled frunk
Replace crank ref sensor
Refurb all four valve covers
Fit cat bypass
Powder coat engine tin and fan shroud
Replace fan
Replace oil breather pipe
Replace breather plate gasket
Replace oil sender o ring
Fit vacuum reservoir for resonance flap
Layup carbon fibre over front splitter
New front frunk struts
Replace rear decals
Replace engine decals
Replace hot air hoses in engine.
Fit Kevlar heater bypass pipe
Fit rivnut to headlight bowl
Replace pulley bolt
Respray car in L908 Grand Prix White

HiWind

Looking stellar! Driving vids please!

John McM

We have a two weekend Porsche oriented festival of speed in a couple of weeks. I will take plenty of footage then.

John McM

I'm now cleaning up my garage and thought I'd share pics of the wear on the gearbox and pass on some tips I've learned.

First up, the gearbox wear you will notice the most, graunching gears.

There were three points of wear on my gear box causing graunching:

1. Worn synchros (in particular the inside surface that slips onto the cone on the dog gear)

2. Worn cones on the dog gear (the part the synchro grips)

3. Worn teeth on the guide sleeve.

If I wanted to fix the box on the cheap I could probably just replace the synchros and reverse the guide sleeve (it's symmetrical), but that's a half baked solution as the dog gear cone is likely worn so it wouldn't last as long.

The next cheapest option would be to do the above and replace the dog gear (it is attached to the gear, but they can now replace those separately, otherwise you replace the whole gear for $$$)

The most expensive option is to replace the synchros, dog gears and guide sleeve. I did that. You wouldn't know what I'd done unless you had the invoice. Not all gear box rebuilds are equal.

John McM

New synchro. Notice how even the inside surface is? That is what slips and grips onto the dog gear and slows it down. When worn it doesn't slow the gear down well enough.

John McM

A worn synchro surface

John McM

The synchro slips/grips onto the dog gear which is attached to the actual gear that takes the power. The surface on the dog gear wears. The synchro is made of softer material than the dog gear. If you got in early enough you might be able to save the dog gear. That's why shifting around the wear is actually still damaging the gears.

As you can see in the images the gears that transmit the power are in beautiful condition, which is why it's a waste to buy a whole gear set to get a new dog gear. The dog gears can now be replaced on their own. A great solution, which is what I did with 4th gear.

John McM

This video shows how the slider, synchro and dog gear work together. As the slider is symmetrical and usually only worn on one side apparently a cheap fix is to switch it around. I replaced the whole item. They are on back order from Germany right now I.e. Unavailable. I got a used spare from Cog Cogs but fitted a new one ex Scargo.