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Oil change post road trip. 8 litres of 15W 50, a German made oil filter and nothing in the oil. That’s a win. Dry engine. 18,000 Km since my rebuild Strong flow. One negative of the scissor lift. If the car is too much to one side, it either risks fouling the arm on the tyre or having the arm close to the plug. I chose to clean up rather than risk the tyre. After a night draining, it rose from this to 8 litres. Torquing the sump plug is easier with this tool. Torquing to 50Nm Doing everything to avoid an oil spill. Including punching a hole and leaving it to drain, then cover the hole with tape for removal. Slightly too tight for my hands Not a drop spilled Smear oil on the filter gasket. Finally, a supplied filler hose with the oil that works. I can see what’s happening and it has a breather.
If you put the puck on the inner most mounting point the arm of the scissor lift is not in the way of the oil plug
Yes, but if the car is not equidistant on the lift, then the end of the arm pushes into the tyre when the car is lifted, putting the user in a world of hurt.
Yes, but if the car is not equidistant on the lift, then the end of the arm pushes into the tyre when the car is lifted, putting the user in a world of hurt.
Obviously restricted by your ramps. Not an issue for moi
I made a thread on how to do an oil change using a quick jack lift some time ago. A fellow Rennlister pointed me to their thread. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but this looks like a good option for you since your scissor lift gets in the way.
I made a thread on how to do an oil change using a quick jack lift some time ago. A fellow Rennlister pointed me to their thread. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but this looks like a good option for you since your scissor lift gets in the way.
The arm being in the way was only due to my car positioning that i couldn’t be bothered re-doing. The scissor lift has proven to be my best DIY tool by far, including solo engine/trans removals.
At the risk of preaching to the choir, when using a crow's foot or wrench extender on a torque wrench, you need to allow for the extra leverage provided by the longer arm of whatever you add to your torque wrench.
This assumes you cannot use the crow's foot at 90 degrees to the centerline of the wrench and must use it inline as shown in the attached sketch.
A good mechanic could set the torque by feel as the crush washer yields just before 50Nm however I prefer this tool to make sure I have it right.
I have yet to dive into 964 oil changes because they look messy but I do change the Spyder every year and the comment about the washer yielding is absolutely evident. I don’t use the factory torque spec for my Spyder because I have a magnetic drain plug but I know the crush washer yields at a pressure that preserves the magnet and I have used that method for the past few years without zero evidence of seepage.
At the risk of preaching to the choir, when using a crow's foot or wrench extender on a torque wrench, you need to allow for the extra leverage provided by the longer arm of whatever you add to your torque wrench.
This assumes you cannot use the crow's foot at 90 degrees to the centerline of the wrench and must use it inline as shown in the attached sketch.
Correct. I will calculate the difference for next time and attach a note to the snap on tool.
I don’t think it would be far off, certainly not as far off as my Spyder. That had a service in the UK before shipping to me in New Zealand. It leaked a bit and I couldn’t believe what I found. The plug had been torqued so heavily it cracked at the plug head lands.
Yes the difference is not great but depends on the length of the extender.
I use foot-pounds and in my case the desired torque on the drain plug was 38 foot-pounds, to achieve 38 in my specific case with length of my crow's foot, I had to set my torque wrench to just under 36 foot-pounds in order to achieve a torque of 38 on the drain plug.
The calculated value for "Y" was 35.72.
If your extender is long enough so you can have it at 90 degrees to the centerline of the torque wrench, then no calculations are needed because you are not increasing the length of the moment arm.
1. I suspect my oil thermostat is permanently open.
2. I want to sort my air conditioning. A leak was detected in the evaporator so that’s a suitcase and fuel tank out job
3. I think my front brake calipers need a rebuild and my flexible brake lines are hard.
4. My centre vents have started blowing hot. Based on Spokes experience this is the CC unit and needs to go to Tore. In the short term, I have disconnected the servo arm and manually closed the flap.
1. I suspect my oil thermostat is permanently open.
2. I want to sort my air conditioning. A leak was detected in the evaporator so that’s a suitcase and fuel tank out job
3. I think my front brake calipers need a rebuild and my flexible brake lines are hard.
4. My centre vents have started blowing hot. Based on Spokes experience this is the CC unit and needs to go to Tore. In the short term, I have disconnected the servo arm and manually closed the flap.
Those are perfect projects to get done over the winter. I’m looking forward to seeing your photos when you pull everything apart to access the evaporator. Seems like it would be a good time to change out the motors and and flaps at the same time unless you have already done it?
04-26-2024, 11:51 PM
