Quick question about changing lower valve cover and oil line
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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Quick question about changing lower valve cover and oil line
Hi all,
A couple of quick questions as I embark on eliminating oil leaks.
1) Is it correct that when changing lower valve covers and the oil line (the one that goes from oil filter to the engine block, for clarity see picture below), I just need to drain the oil from engine, but DO NOT need to drain the oil tank?
2) I seem to remember reading a posting about a specific pattern of tightening the valve cover nuts as another thing to do to prevent oil leaks at the lower valve cover. But I can't find that post now. So, is there a specific order to tighten these nuts?
3) Does anyone have correct torque value for the valve cover nuts and the oil line
Thanks in advance.
A couple of quick questions as I embark on eliminating oil leaks.
1) Is it correct that when changing lower valve covers and the oil line (the one that goes from oil filter to the engine block, for clarity see picture below), I just need to drain the oil from engine, but DO NOT need to drain the oil tank?
2) I seem to remember reading a posting about a specific pattern of tightening the valve cover nuts as another thing to do to prevent oil leaks at the lower valve cover. But I can't find that post now. So, is there a specific order to tighten these nuts?
3) Does anyone have correct torque value for the valve cover nuts and the oil line
Thanks in advance.
#2
#1. Yes, you are correct. Oil from sump is all you need to drain.
#2. Move in a star pattern, tightening only to hand tight. Then retrace the same pattern to torque spec.
#3. 7ft lbs. http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...Specifications
#4. The heat exchangers are going to have to be removed for installation of that oil line. Be VERY careful in how you proceed to remove the nuts from exhaust studs.
You will need a 13mm swivel socket. Take three days, penetrating oil, and heat--make use of them! I then recommend a 1/4 drive impact to break them loose slowly.
#2. Move in a star pattern, tightening only to hand tight. Then retrace the same pattern to torque spec.
#3. 7ft lbs. http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...Specifications
#4. The heat exchangers are going to have to be removed for installation of that oil line. Be VERY careful in how you proceed to remove the nuts from exhaust studs.
You will need a 13mm swivel socket. Take three days, penetrating oil, and heat--make use of them! I then recommend a 1/4 drive impact to break them loose slowly.
#3
Nordschleife Master
+1 on heat exchangers needing to come off to access this line.
And I think the tank is gonna drain regardless, except it'll be through the sump and at a much slower rate than if you opened up the drain on the tank.
And I think the tank is gonna drain regardless, except it'll be through the sump and at a much slower rate than if you opened up the drain on the tank.