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Hey guys. Posting this in a serrate thread hoping to get some quick opinions. When i bought my car the A/C wasn't working....Tank was empty and needs to be converted to R134. Now the car is at the shop and the tech reported the following:
A/C COMPRESSOR DOES NOT ENGAGE, FOUND SYSTEM LOW ON CHARGE CAUSING COMPRESSOR TO NOT ENGAGE, CHARGE WITH SMALL AMOUNT OF REPLACEMENT R12 AND A/C DYE CONFIRM A/C COMPRESSOR FUNCTION AND LOCATE A LEAK. NOTICED MOISTURE AROUND A/C CONDENSER, SUSPECT IT TO BE LEAKING, RECOMMEND MONITORING FOR LEAKS. A/C COMPRESSOR ALSO SHOWS SIGNS OF MOISTURE AROUND HOUSING HALVES.
RECOMMEND REPLACING AND PERFORMING R134A RETROFIT:
REPLACE A/C CONDENSER, REMOVE FRONT BUMPER, REPLACE CONDENSER AND ALL SEALS.
REPLACE A/C COMPRESSOR, RECIEVER DRIER AND EXPANSION VALVE. REPLACE ALL SEALS AND FLUSH ALL LINES AND COMPONENTS TO GET RID OF ALL OLD OIL AND R12 REFRIGERANT.
RECHARGE SYSTEM WITH NEW A/C OIL AND R134A REFRIGERANT
So, basically, they're recommending a retrofit plus replacing both the condenser and compressor since they have signs of leaking. My thinking would be to convert first and monitor the system before replacing. Any thoughts would be helpful since the compressor ($400) and condenser ($200) aint cheap.
Our cars are so old that leaks are not uncommon and the evaporator is the most common leak point. When you replace it, you normally also replace the drier and expansion valve. I had this done on my car along with a R134 retrofit. On my car the condenser and compressor were fine and did not leak.
I'm afraid if the dye shows leaks at the condenser and compressor you don't have much choice than to replace them (unless it is something like a loose connection)...luckily that's cheaper than replacing the evaporator, which requires a lot of "labor hours".
I wouldn't replace the compressor due to a leak. Reman compressors are ****. Instead buy a seal kit and replace all the gaskets and seals on the existing compressor and lube up the gaskets/seals with Nylog Blue.
The condenser probably does need replacing and the $99 Behr unit sold by pelican is pretty nice. It is a modern serpentine design instead of the failure-prone tube design OE condenser.
If you're converting to R134a, then you'll want to replace the drier too. The early 964s that have the drier w/the 90-degree fitting at the top can use the same drier as an 89-91 Honda Civic.
While you're doing this. It would probably be a good time to replace all the o-rings on the system with new green nitrate o-rings and lube them all up with Nylog Blue.
At this point, go rent a vacuum pump from AutoZone and buy some decent ac gauges and pull a vacuum on the system. It should hold vacuum indefinitely.
I just went through all this last summer when I replaced the evaporator (including expansion valve) condenser, drier, and all o-rings.
These are quality pieces because they have their own valve core. You have to remove the valve cores currently installed on the compressor before installing these fittings. I actually had one of the old valve cores break and fall apart during removal, so I had to remove the compressor and dismantle the port housing to fish out the piece of the valve core that stayed inside.
But if you're going to use a shop, you're going to be doing what they suggest using the parts they recommend because that's what they're familiar with, that's what they've seen works, and that's what's in their best interest when it comes to being able to deliver the promised outcome to the client. Earlydays had a shop redo his whole a/c and they gave him a nice warranty to go along with it. And DIY is a beatdown, but that's just been how I roll.
But if you're going to use a shop, you're going to be doing what they suggest using the parts they recommend because that's what they're familiar with, that's what they've seen works, and that's what's in their best interest when it comes to being able to deliver the promised outcome to the client. Earlydays had a shop redo his whole a/c and they gave him a nice warranty to go along with it. And DIY is a beatdown, but that's just been how I roll.
The serpentine design makes it a bit thicker than the OE tube & fin design, so you have to jack with the retaining frame bracket (964.573.241.01) in order to widen it up and create more clearance so the new condenser can squeeze into place.
04-15-2015, 09:36 PM
A/C Service Help
