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Nick, What you need is a nose bearing seal that Tom Amon developed and sells. I have one on my C2 and just put one on my C4. Its just an aluminum ring with some set screws that you put in place with JB weld. But he sells it in a kit that includes everything you need: the ring, JB weld, a cleaning brush, and the right size allen wrench for the set screws. Here is the photo on my C4 I just installed. Here is Tom's webpage, he has a video on this as well: http://www.mobileworkswest.com/forsale911.html
I fitted one to my car as well. Nicely made, however I wish I had dealt to the Mickey Mouse eared cover below it when my engine was out, because I believe that is still leaking.
To remove you loosen the set screws and then use a torch to heat up the JB weld enough so you can pry it off.
John McM: thanks for the reminder to re-do my intermediate shaft cover (mickey mouse ears). Although I just changed the O-ring I should also use Loctite 574 for that bit of extra seal. Per the SuperTec sealant guide.
Starting installing the cylinders and pistons today. New viton cylinder to case o-rings installed along with a coat of Dow Molykote 55.
I can't remember where I read it but the 23mm circlip injector from Stromski racing makes piston to connecting rod install a breeze. I can't imagine NOT having this tool. I also bought there temporary cylinder holder nuts.
I made the AC bracket mod on my C2 already and haven't gotten around to it yet on my C4 but will probably do the same.
The 964 workshop manual tells you how to install the studs and the 130.3mm height target. Although my original studs looked completely fine and were actually installed to about 128mm in height.
Wayne Dempsey's book, although not specific to the 964 engine, is just a good thing to become familiar with. Combine that with the 964 engine rebuild DVD and 10 years of reading this forum and you learn a thing or two.
On the studs you just get close to 130mm, measure it, then you know the pitch of the studs are 1.5mm per revolution, and slowly rotate the correct amount to hit the 130.2 - .5 target based upon the last measurement. By the time you install the 24th stud you are an expert at it!
Oh, so many questions When you dismantled top end, did you remove heads and cam housing as one unit, then at bench remove cam housing from heads? How hard was it to seperate cam housing from heads?
Could you share what is being refreshed on the case besides PC studs? Other case studs? Keeping same timing chains, ramps, etc. ? Did you follow the PF video method for through bolts? Will you use his method for cam housing to heads before final torque of PC's? Been watching my video over thanksgiving break .... Ultimately, would be interested if you deviate from video on any assembly when you are finished.
Ricardo,
Please, let me ask you a question.
On the first post you related a list off needed tools. With regards to “Timing chain tensioner- drill two holes in a cheap brake pad spreader”, could you please explain it to me?
Everywhere I look at people say that the very expensive tensioner are needed, but, how do you figure it out just with the brake pad spreaders?
Thanks very much for your mush appreciated help.
gents, I bought the expensive tool thinking, "no expense spared"... and I also compared directly using a brake pad spreader.. and finally I compared using the stock tensioner...
The results I got from setting the timing were the same each time around..
So, my conclusion was while I felt good knowing I used the expensive tool, it really didn't give me a different outcome, but I would have not known had I not bought them!
gents, I bought the expensive tool thinking, "no expense spared"... and I also compared directly using a brake pad spreader.. and finally I compared using the stock tensioner...
The results I got from setting the timing were the same each time around..
So, my conclusion was while I felt good knowing I used the expensive tool, it really didn't give me a different outcome, but I would have not known had I not bought them!
Could you please explin to me how did you do it with the brake spreader setup?
Hi Ricardo
Awesome rebuild thread! Thanks for the wealth of information.
Just curious, are you replacing your through bolts? Or just replacing the O-rings on them?
You drill two holes in the black plate (one on each side of the tensioning screw corresponding to the studs on the engine that hold the tensioner spring housing in place). It's self-explanatory once you have everything opened up. I initially used this technique with the pad spreader, but for unrelated reasons, I was unhappy about my engine timing and re-did it. This time, I didn't want to take the tensioners off since I had already put sealant on the gaskets. I believe Ricardo did the same thing. Worked just as well. Also, I wasn't sure exactly how much tension to put on the chain ramps, which may have been the reason that my timing was off at first.
Last edited by apanossi; Jan 10, 2017 at 11:58 PM.
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When you dismantled top end, did you remove heads and cam housing as one unit, then at bench remove cam housing from heads? How hard was it to seperate cam housing from heads? 
