Metal Guru

A certain percentage of owners that don't know much about cars get sold a bill of goods by their wrenches at the slightest hint of a problem. I'd bet that accounts for at least 25% of all early rebuilds.

Bud Taylor

Agreed by the time you drop the motor for new gaskets and split the case why not do piston and rings. Does anyone think oil leaks could be the cause of the high number of rebuilds ?

FeralComprehension

You bet, but it's probably in this form:
(PeskyOilLeaks+WhileYou'reInThere+SlipperySlope)^WhatIf??=Rebuild

boxsey911

The car world has woken up to the fact that the 964 is a very special 911 and is now very desirable. For me it was a simple case of appreciating what I'd been lucky enough to grab and had it rebuilt so that I could enjoy it for many years to come. The decision was also helped by the knowledge that it would be money well spent because it added value to the car. I wouldn't have bee able to say the same if it was a 996/997.

HalV

This is my guess, too. My car has ~150k miles with less than 4% leak down. I've got a small drip from a timing chain cover but nothing at this point (knock on wood) that would cause me to do a rebuild.

jody stowitts

Steve Weiner: Due to your vast experience, I believe your statement (parenthetic) that the predecessor 3.2Liter is "incredible". What accounts for this seeming benchmark status of the 3.2L? I.e., what does the 3.6L lack, or what flaw does it have that disallows IT to be the "new benchmark"? Thanks in advance for your response! Sincerely, Jody.

wardp

This is my exact dilemma. I have a beautiful, well maintained black on black and tan 964 manual coupe with oil leaks that appear to be coming from a couple engine case through bolts. Other than that the car is darn near perfect with <100k miles, original paint, etc. However, I'm not sure I'm up for a $10k+ rebuild (I'm a sucker for "while you're in there") but also don't like the thought of not doing anything about the oil leak. Uggg.

Rocket Rob

I wouldn't rush into a rebuild just for a minor leak. Yes, the drips can be annoying but you may be able to go a long time before the leak becomes a problem. And are you really sure the leak is at the through bolts? 15 years ago, I was quoted by a mechanic recommending a "full engine reseal" for $11K. I laughed and told him, do you know how many quarts of Mobil 1 I can buy with that? That was a fortunate decision. A while later, I went to another mechanic who found the leak at the oil pressure sender. The repair was cheap. My advice is drive the car and enjoy it. When you can, try to find someone you trust to find the source of the oil leak(s).

FeralComprehension

FWIW the case bolt leaks are relatively easy to address. It is an engine-out deal I think, but if you R&R the bolts one at a time (study up- check the PParts engine rebuild forum) there's no need to actually split the case.

Grazie

Interesting. A few thoughts:
1) have to vs. want to: I suspect there are many 964 owners (myself included) to whom the idea of dropping the engine and performing a rebuilt sounds like fun....so we may be guilty of looking for a reason
2) 964 vs. other performance/enthusiast car: given the enthusiast/top shape/performance drivng/hobby factors that can motivate rebuilds, say, over what one might do to you daily driver, perhaps 964 rebuild frequency among enthusiasts is not so different than that of other performance car make/models.
3) maybe we just talk about it more ;-).

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Jody,

A somewhat complex question with many variables. Without writing a small book here, I'd offer condensed answer for you.

The 3.2 engine was in a mild state of tune (and a slightly simpler design than the 3.6) which reduced its running temperatures, compared to its successors.

The 3.6 doesn't have any special flaws that are unique to its design; both engines are VERY durable and capable of 200K longevity, provided that a proper maintenance regimen is followed and oil temperatures are strictly controlled.

We see a wide range of engines here with some that are pretty trashed before 100K as well as some that have over 200K in excellent condition. The difference is all due to maintenance and oil temp control.

Does this help?

Hem

What exactly would a proper maintenance regimen include? Obviously oil changes and valve adjustments..but what else beyond that?

RicardoD

How do you maintain oil temp control? Ensure your oil system and cooling fans are all running properly? Make sure oil level is always maintained and use quality Green oil?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Speaking from the mechanical side of our industry, not the sales & marketing one:

1) Change your oil & filter every 3K on street cars (more often on track/race cars).

2) Use a GOOD oil & Mahle filters, not just the easiest ones to find.

3) Change fuel & air filters every 10K.

4) Replace ignition components, caps, rotors & plugs as needed. Usually 15K.

5) Replace plug wires every 30K.

6) Oxysensor every 30K-35K.

7) Distributor belt every 60K.


This regimen keeps the engine healthy and maintains best performance.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Keep the front of the oil cooler clean and free of all dirt, bugs, and any other debris. The bumper cover needs to be removed for access and inspection.

Make sure the fans and thermal switches are working correctly.

The rest is posted above.