Dumb question
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 4
From: Boston Burbs.
Dumb question
My clutch hose to slave cyl was cut when the motor burnt and removed from my car. I installed all my newer components from donor. The clutch pedal could be up higher.
So here is the dumb question: Does the master cyl bleed also when bleeding the slave with a power bleeder connected under the frunk? Would I be hurting the procedure by trying to bleed at master on pedal cluster or helping? Remember this car sat for a few yrs with the clutch pedal on the floor after motor and slave hose was disconnected. I will bleed slave again first, just wondering.
Thanks.
So here is the dumb question: Does the master cyl bleed also when bleeding the slave with a power bleeder connected under the frunk? Would I be hurting the procedure by trying to bleed at master on pedal cluster or helping? Remember this car sat for a few yrs with the clutch pedal on the floor after motor and slave hose was disconnected. I will bleed slave again first, just wondering.
Thanks.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 17
From: Vancouver Island, BC , Canada
I just bled my clutch and got air in the system because I wanted all the old fluid out before adding new stuff. My pedal would fall right to the floor. Held the pedal up in place and bled at the slave only, and everything is working as it should.
PS. Used Motive pressure bleeder.
PS. Used Motive pressure bleeder.
Formerly turbotwoshoes
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 850
Likes: 32
From: Russellville, Arkansas
Hint?
I just did the plastic bearing and roll pin replacement in the pedal assembly, and while I was at it, I changed the clutch master cylinder (why do all that work and not go all the way especially since I suspected that was how air was getting into my system anyway.)
I used the motive power bleeder but could not get all the air out (clutch pedal would not firm up.) I tried the hammer taping n the line while opening the bleeder valve. (why they used a little 8mm bleeder is still a question)
I finally got my wife to help by depressing the clutch pedal down while I relieved the slave cylinder. After about six to eight tries, it finally firmed up. I have been driving it for about two weeks now and I cannot believe how smooth it shifts.
I strongly suspect that many who complain of notchy or hard shifting is due to air in the lines rather than mechanical problems. The reason I suspected my master cylinder was that I had installed a new slave about six months ago and had a "firm" pedal, but was wondering if my clutch was about to go since it never felt like it was truly fully disengaged. Since changing out the master cylinder the clutch feels totally different and is so easy to disengage/engage and shift. Even when cold (it has been in the teens here in the morning.
Although my roll pin did not need changing, I changed it while I was in there. I also polished the "bearing" surfaces in the pedal cluster to a mirror finish ( I have a commercial 12" wheel polisher)
I think the secret to a good system is to use the motive and use the "old style" method of pedal depression / bleeding procedure. I now know I have all the air out of the system.
Good luck!
I used the motive power bleeder but could not get all the air out (clutch pedal would not firm up.) I tried the hammer taping n the line while opening the bleeder valve. (why they used a little 8mm bleeder is still a question)
I finally got my wife to help by depressing the clutch pedal down while I relieved the slave cylinder. After about six to eight tries, it finally firmed up. I have been driving it for about two weeks now and I cannot believe how smooth it shifts.
I strongly suspect that many who complain of notchy or hard shifting is due to air in the lines rather than mechanical problems. The reason I suspected my master cylinder was that I had installed a new slave about six months ago and had a "firm" pedal, but was wondering if my clutch was about to go since it never felt like it was truly fully disengaged. Since changing out the master cylinder the clutch feels totally different and is so easy to disengage/engage and shift. Even when cold (it has been in the teens here in the morning.
Although my roll pin did not need changing, I changed it while I was in there. I also polished the "bearing" surfaces in the pedal cluster to a mirror finish ( I have a commercial 12" wheel polisher)
I think the secret to a good system is to use the motive and use the "old style" method of pedal depression / bleeding procedure. I now know I have all the air out of the system.
Good luck!