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Old 11-13-2015, 04:43 AM
  #751  
Silvertarga
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Originally Posted by 911wings View Post
So yesterday my spoiler decided to no longer move. When you first turn the ignition, the spoiler light indicates, and then turns off as usual but the wing cannot be put up by the switch or by driving. I checked the fuse and pulled the cover off the motor to check for debris but didn't find any.

Any ideas?
Disconnect the spoiler transmission (attached to the motor) and see if the spoiler will move. Also while the transmission is disconnected from the motor see if the manual operating switch activates the motor

When mine did this it was the bearing in the transmission (Porsche used an unsealed bearing which after time rusts out) . I waited too long and the motor burned out. At no time did the fuse blow..The bearing can be replaced, quite a few tutorials on it around the web
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:53 AM
  #752  
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Originally Posted by luckyJ View Post
first time going this far with any car...most difficult DIY job I've finished was replacing the front bumper...anyways, my oil pressure gauge needle was acting funny, so I have gotten to the sender...but the damn thing won't pull out...how do I get the sender manifold out...just pull or lift with a flat head screwdriver?...impossible to get a 24mm wrench in there to turn...thanks
You can either use a 24mm crowsfoot to remove it in place or you can lever the unit off the engine case and then remove the sender on the work bench. The sensor housing is sealed via an o-ring.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:33 AM
  #753  
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Disconnect the wires and pull the unit out with your hand. Clean the area first so nothing yukky falls into your oil reservoir. It's held in my a rubber 0-ring.......... Replace this too, its about $1!

The unit can then be held in a vice while you undo the nut.

Mark.
90C2
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:52 PM
  #754  
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Originally Posted by Silvertarga View Post
Disconnect the spoiler transmission (attached to the motor) and see if the spoiler will move. Also while the transmission is disconnected from the motor see if the manual operating switch activates the motor

When mine did this it was the bearing in the transmission (Porsche used an unsealed bearing which after time rusts out) . I waited too long and the motor burned out. At no time did the fuse blow..The bearing can be replaced, quite a few tutorials on it around the web
The console switch has power, and with the motor disconnected, the wing can be raised by hand using the gears. looks like the motor went on it.
Between this and the spoiler top cracking on me, I am inclined to put a fixed wing on it...
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:28 PM
  #755  
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob View Post
You can either use a 24mm crowsfoot to remove it in place or you can lever the unit off the engine case and then remove the sender on the work bench. The sensor housing is sealed via an o-ring.
This.

I was kind of dreading having to do it, but it turned out easier than I thought. I didn't even touch the intake stacks, just removed the AFM and reached around. Unless you have seepage around the housing (meaning O-ring is leaking), I would just go this route. I bought the cheapest crowfoot I could find, believe it was from SummitRacing (no affiliation), and it worked like a charm. Just make sure to have it sit around the sensor well enough so you don't strip anything.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:49 PM
  #756  
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my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:51 PM
  #757  
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex View Post
my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
did the car come with 17's from the factory?
there is a steering stop upgrade, if not.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:42 AM
  #758  
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Is there a method to disable the after-run feature of the blower fan? I would like to keep it intact and have it run while the car is running.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:17 PM
  #759  
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex View Post
my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
Are you rubbing that driverside corner at the joint between the bumper and fender? There was a TSB for cutting the tab there if yours isnt already. Otherwise you might need to roll that edge, which is what I'm trying to do this winter.

Originally Posted by Dreamstate View Post
Is there a method to disable the after-run feature of the blower fan? I would like to keep it intact and have it run while the car is running.
Don't quote me on this, but I believe there is a fuse for it in the fuse box in the engine bay.
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:03 AM
  #760  
luckyJ
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I just purchased a used cup pipe but it didn't come with the two straps...can I use the factory straps from the stock primary mufflers for the cup pipes?

Last edited by luckyJ; 11-18-2015 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:57 AM
  #761  
964Andrew
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Ordered new front axle lock-nut for my 89 C4 (999 090 008 02) the part was superseded to: 999 090 010 01. The new axle nut is about half the height. Whats going on?
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:24 AM
  #762  
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Originally Posted by SausageCat View Post
Ordered new front axle lock-nut for my 89 C4 (999 090 008 02) the part was superseded to: 999 090 010 01. The new axle nut is about half the height. Whats going on?
Yep its normal. It's come up for discussion a few times on here.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:33 AM
  #763  
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^ Nothing wrong with lighter weight!
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:54 AM
  #764  
964Andrew
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Great, Im going to have to replace the other side as well to equal the weight savings

Related: The factory manual calls for 339 ft-lb of force to tighten the nut. My largest torque wrench goes to 250 ft-lb. Not wanting to spend $500 for 3/4 inch heavy duty torque wrench I turned to math calculations: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/torq2.html - Using my weight, gravity and 2 feet extension. The problem with that is the new design of the nut - it doesn't have enough surface to support the socket so I can freely stand on the extension.

Or I could just use torque multiplier.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks!
Andrew
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:13 AM
  #765  
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