Originally Posted by 911wings
(Post 12753399)
So yesterday my spoiler decided to no longer move. When you first turn the ignition, the spoiler light indicates, and then turns off as usual but the wing cannot be put up by the switch or by driving. I checked the fuse and pulled the cover off the motor to check for debris but didn't find any.
Any ideas? When mine did this it was the bearing in the transmission (Porsche used an unsealed bearing which after time rusts out) . I waited too long and the motor burned out. At no time did the fuse blow..The bearing can be replaced, quite a few tutorials on it around the web |
Originally Posted by luckyJ
(Post 12753538)
first time going this far with any car...most difficult DIY job I've finished was replacing the front bumper...anyways, my oil pressure gauge needle was acting funny, so I have gotten to the sender...but the damn thing won't pull out...how do I get the sender manifold out...just pull or lift with a flat head screwdriver?...impossible to get a 24mm wrench in there to turn...thanks
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Disconnect the wires and pull the unit out with your hand. Clean the area first so nothing yukky falls into your oil reservoir. It's held in my a rubber 0-ring.......... Replace this too, its about $1!
The unit can then be held in a vice while you undo the nut. Mark. 90C2 |
Originally Posted by Silvertarga
(Post 12755062)
Disconnect the spoiler transmission (attached to the motor) and see if the spoiler will move. Also while the transmission is disconnected from the motor see if the manual operating switch activates the motor
When mine did this it was the bearing in the transmission (Porsche used an unsealed bearing which after time rusts out) . I waited too long and the motor burned out. At no time did the fuse blow..The bearing can be replaced, quite a few tutorials on it around the web Between this and the spoiler top cracking on me, I am inclined to put a fixed wing on it... |
Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
(Post 12755197)
You can either use a 24mm crowsfoot to remove it in place or you can lever the unit off the engine case and then remove the sender on the work bench. The sensor housing is sealed via an o-ring.
I was kind of dreading having to do it, but it turned out easier than I thought. I didn't even touch the intake stacks, just removed the AFM and reached around. Unless you have seepage around the housing (meaning O-ring is leaking), I would just go this route. I bought the cheapest crowfoot I could find, believe it was from SummitRacing (no affiliation), and it worked like a charm. Just make sure to have it sit around the sensor well enough so you don't strip anything. |
my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex
(Post 12757474)
my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
there is a steering stop upgrade, if not. |
Is there a method to disable the after-run feature of the blower fan? I would like to keep it intact and have it run while the car is running.
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex
(Post 12757474)
my car is lowered and i just have 225/45/17's on cup i's in the front but on full compression something is cutting into my tire - i believe someone wrote about a fix - perhaps removing one of the screws that hold the liner in? might just be the inner fender and i need to roll it.
Originally Posted by Dreamstate
(Post 12760526)
Is there a method to disable the after-run feature of the blower fan? I would like to keep it intact and have it run while the car is running.
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I just purchased a used cup pipe but it didn't come with the two straps...can I use the factory straps from the stock primary mufflers for the cup pipes?
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Ordered new front axle lock-nut for my 89 C4 (999 090 008 02) the part was superseded to: 999 090 010 01. The new axle nut is about half the height. Whats going on?
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Originally Posted by SausageCat
(Post 12768624)
Ordered new front axle lock-nut for my 89 C4 (999 090 008 02) the part was superseded to: 999 090 010 01. The new axle nut is about half the height. Whats going on?
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^ Nothing wrong with lighter weight!
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Great, Im going to have to replace the other side as well to equal the weight savings ;)
Related: The factory manual calls for 339 ft-lb of force to tighten the nut. My largest torque wrench goes to 250 ft-lb. Not wanting to spend $500 for 3/4 inch heavy duty torque wrench I turned to math calculations: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/torq2.html - Using my weight, gravity and 2 feet extension. The problem with that is the new design of the nut - it doesn't have enough surface to support the socket so I can freely stand on the extension. Or I could just use torque multiplier. Any help much appreciated. Thanks! Andrew |
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