Can't start, won't start
01-26-2014, 06:43 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Garage sit-rep
T-OBD now connected but oddly no fault codes !!!!
Finally managed to get the engine to catch and run but its rough as anything. Needs to be held at 2K to keep it running. I've disconnected both coils in turn to see if its an ignition issue but neither exacerbates the problem. Getting there... Ideas?
T-OBD now connected but oddly no fault codes !!!!
Finally managed to get the engine to catch and run but its rough as anything. Needs to be held at 2K to keep it running. I've disconnected both coils in turn to see if its an ignition issue but neither exacerbates the problem. Getting there... Ideas?
01-26-2014, 08:00 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I've kept the engine running at 2k to get some warmth into it and it can now just about idle on it's own, but it still sounds like a tractor!
I've checked all sensors on the diagnostics and physically unplugged them whilst running to ensure the ECU does 'see' that and logs the correct code. Also uplugged the idle control whilst running and the engine immediately stops. Running out of things to check. It sounds and smells like a mixture issue. I'm running with no cat and have the jumper wire in place where the O2 would connect. Looking at the docs, (adrians book) there are option coding connectors up by the ECU. The book says there is a no-cat option (both connectors jumped to earth). I don't recall seeing any jumpers in there prior to removeal - Should there be?
I've checked all sensors on the diagnostics and physically unplugged them whilst running to ensure the ECU does 'see' that and logs the correct code. Also uplugged the idle control whilst running and the engine immediately stops. Running out of things to check. It sounds and smells like a mixture issue. I'm running with no cat and have the jumper wire in place where the O2 would connect. Looking at the docs, (adrians book) there are option coding connectors up by the ECU. The book says there is a no-cat option (both connectors jumped to earth). I don't recall seeing any jumpers in there prior to removeal - Should there be?
01-26-2014, 09:08 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
WHOOP WHOOP - It's running and purring 
The smaller of the two breather hoses that run between the engine and top of oil tank wasn't on properly at the engine end. The hose clamp wasn't seated properly and letting air in. You have to fit this hose blind as it connects to the rear of the plenum.
Phew
The smaller of the two breather hoses that run between the engine and top of oil tank wasn't on properly at the engine end. The hose clamp wasn't seated properly and letting air in. You have to fit this hose blind as it connects to the rear of the plenum.
Phew
01-26-2014, 01:54 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Garage sit-rep
T-OBD now connected but oddly no fault codes !!!!
Finally managed to get the engine to catch and run but its rough as anything. Needs to be held at 2K to keep it running. I've disconnected both coils in turn to see if its an ignition issue but neither exacerbates the problem. Getting there... Ideas?
T-OBD now connected but oddly no fault codes !!!!
Finally managed to get the engine to catch and run but its rough as anything. Needs to be held at 2K to keep it running. I've disconnected both coils in turn to see if its an ignition issue but neither exacerbates the problem. Getting there... Ideas?
01-26-2014, 02:42 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Hopefully the miss-hook-up didn't pressurize the oil system weird, blow out a rear main seal or anything crazy.
EDIT: Re-read your description, you didn't cross up the hoses, one just didn't seat right.
EDIT: Re-read your description, you didn't cross up the hoses, one just didn't seat right.
01-26-2014, 02:53 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No, there was also an issue with the DME main fuse. I was measuring the voltages at the ECU socket and noticed that the reading from pin 18 (always live) was a fraction of volt lower than pin 37 (switched live). Pulled and reinserted the fuse a few times and then the readings matched. I guess a dirty contact was preventing any load from being drawn and the ECU powering up. The car has sat for a year with the lid off and not running... Anyways, the OBD sprang into life so I tried again to start. On each attempt it would fire up then immediately die. Holding a bit of throttle would keep it going but it was all over the place. Running far better now I'll let it run up to full temperature next weekend and perform an Adaptation.
I'll let it run up to full temperature next weekend and perform an Adaptation.