Well done on finally getting that filter off Stan. Never seen one be so tough to remove! Get yourself one of these tools for next time:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-filter-wrench

It distributes the torque all round the filter which gives you a whole lot more leverage. It also comes in very hand for squeezing back the brake pads when changing them.

 

Thanks Boxsey, it really was a bugger to get off.

Right, I need some advice guys. I've got the oil tank back in today with all the hoses on, everything finished. But, I was about to give the ends of my new hose a squirt of Dinitrol when I noticed the new big oil pipe is kinked:


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What's the thoughts on this from anyone who's done this job? That pipe only fits in one way and has to be really squeezed in next to the tank. I can't see how if I remove everything and start again it won't do the same thing? Is it likely to unkink itself once 5 bar of oil pressure is running through it??

Little bit annoyed tonight because it seems I've wasted the whole afternoon and I'm thinking this will all have to come out again

 

Was this oil line a proper Porsche part?
I recall a thread on this issue a while back.

That hose doesn't look like the original type. The original stuff is much tougher and won't kink.

 

Hi Rob, no it was an OEM part from Type911.

I thought I was doing the right thing buying a new hose instead of getting mine remade. I had read on Bablouie's thread about his hose rated to 5000psi or something, but I thought it sounded overkill, didn't know there was issue with OEM hoses. I've still got the old hose and the rubber certainly seems stiffer than the new part but that could be age related...

I've managed to improve the situation much more tonight as I found that when I tightened the connection to the stat, the hard pipe was moving slightly and causing the kink. By holding the pipe while I tightened it to prevent it moving the kink has become more of a slight squash, which looks acceptable to me maybe...? This pipe take a tortuous route and the oil has to squeeze through tighter gaps on its way from the filter to the tank, etc. What do people think?!


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So, I'm kinda resigned to the fact that horrible oil hose is going to have to be replaced with a Genuine Porsche part.

Just to round off my day yesterday I also managed to break the wires to the oil level sender. The break is too close to the unit to re-solder them by the looks of it...


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Decided to refit the exhaust today and repair the metal heat shield above the centre section.

I used some foil tape from Screwfix to repair the heat shield which seemed work quite well.

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I'm planning to do away with the rear heat shields altogether so I used some on the underside of the rear light enclosure. I also fitted some Thermo-Tec exhaust wrap to keep temps down.



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I've been using ethanol gas treatment in my 964, because all of the gasoline in my area has 10% ethanol added to it.

Is anyone else using a fuel treatment?

http://www.goldeagle.com/products/10_oz_ethanol.aspx

 

Good day today, got the new oil pipe fitted, tank back in, new oil level sender, drained and replaced the oil and got her fired up again.

I will expand more on the other thread I started but the Porsche oil pipe is definitely different to the 'OEM' version. For a start it hasn't kinked. The hose actually feels softer, but at the point where it would have kinked it seems stiffer or has some kind of internal tube.

Only took me about half an hour to get the tank out and the old pipe out again, fitting the new hose was easy but getting the tank back in is a bugger. The knack / method I found that seems to work is as follows:

1: Fit the oil line from filter to stat with the thermostat in place.
2: fit the oil tank with the upper side rubber hose in place and push back to locate the tank on its mounts, this is awkward and will take some persuasion
3: drop the oil stat and fit the rear bottom (short) hose to the bottom of the tank
4: push the stat back into position and onto the lower hose just fitted
5: tighten the oil hard line back up to the stat again
6: fit the longer lower hose (you have to do this last because you can't get the spanners onto the hard line with this in position
7: fit all the upper hoses
8: fit the lower side hose
9: tighten all remaining pipe connections in any sequence you like!





New oil pipe fitted with no kinks




Oil pipe to thermostat




I repainted the hard oil line along the inner wing as well and bought a new P clip from Porsche and treated it with Dinitrol. I also treated the ends of the new oil line with Corroheat and anywhere else I thought needed some rust prevention!




Oil tank fitted with new oil level sender... I sprayed this with Corroheat too as the old one was badly corroded.

Ran the car up to temperature and checked for leaks. I found a small leak at the stat thanks to a hose clip that needed tightening (oops!). Next step is to fit the new long neck J pipe I picked up off eBay, wrap it with Thermo-Tec and refit the rear bumper. Then I am done!

 

Nice to meet you the other day Stan.
Car is looking good, your definitely on the final stretch and with time to spare before Spa.
Don't forget to check if your space saver fits over your big reds...

 

Hi Stan, who do you order the hoses, mounts and filter etc from?

 

>I'm planning to do away with the rear heat shields altogether

Yikes - really? Just think how hot it'd get back there whilst sat motionless on a sunny bank holiday motorway!

 

Good work Stan, inspiring,
I need to look behind my bumper soon, thinking removing the heat shield ....

 

I take my hat off to you Stan, nice work!

I just wish I was more brave / skilled and had the patience to do jobs like this... I could then save myself a lot of money

 

Hi George, good to meet you too! Your car is looking good and sounds like you have some great plans in the pipeline!

Ordered my bits from Type 911, mainly because they had everything I wanted so I could do it all in one order. They were pretty fair on the oil hose situation too.

Hi Rob, that is (was?!) my plan. I have ordered some of this thermal heat shield tape: http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/pro...T_ID=&P_ID=412

I plan to copy what 'Chief' has done on his 'Red Baron' thread on 911UK forum and apply the heatshield directly to the bumper skin. I thought this combined with the thermal wrap on the exhaust would do the job just as well as the original heatshields... While I was running the car at the weekend, once it was up to temperature I was able to hold my hand comfortably for as long as I wanted on the de-cat exhaust pipe with the thermal wrap applied. I wouldn't fancy doing that anywhere else on the exhaust system. I think the thermal wrap will really help keep temps down generally. Open to suggestions on this though as I would rather not melt my genuine RS rear bumper!!

Thanks Paul. It really is more a light makeover compared to some other threads but I think it really does highlight the importance of paying some attention to the back end of our cars. As others have noted they are quite complex at the back with lots of nuts, bolts and screws, all with the potential to go rusty (god knows how/if Porsche made any money with these cars as they must have taken forever to assemble compared to modern cars seemingly held together with plastic clips). I think giving the oil tank and associated pipework, along with the rear bodywork, a good going over, is essential preventative maintenance.

I have been working out my costs so I will post these here along with a guess of hours spent when I am done...!

 

Ah ok, so you're not doing away with heat shields in general

As a point of interest, in this application I'd keep the use of thermal wrap applied directly to an exhaust to an absolute minimum. The heat this section would've dissipated does not just dissappear. It has the effect of pushing the problem elsewhere and increasing the temperature of the uncovered sections each side of it. In small localised applications its fine. By covering the section from the header flange to the entry in the back box, you will cause the running temp of that box to increase. Given what you're trying to achieve, and its proximity to the bumper, this may need some experimentation. The section you've covered is actually the area that has the greatest clearance to sorrounding parts so least important to wrap. Also, be very wary of using it where it may get oily as they form a perfect wick and have a habbit of catching fire.

 

All good points Rob, thanks for your insight.

I had thought about the fact the larger rear silencer is going to be the item closest to the rear bumper. I will look to double up the thermal tape in this area and keep an eye on this.

There is a spray on product that I have bought which goes with the heat wrap on the exhaust. This is supposed to close the pores in the tape and improve / reduce permeability to chemicals, water, etc.