Alex Sol

that's the odd thing. i cannot drive the car... it is not engaging / disengaging the space between the pressure plate and fork looks mighty narrow.

i think your situation, Rob, was that it was engaging/disengaging and going beyond and thus grinding a little pressure plate.. mine is grinding before even this point... basically within about 2 to 2 1/2 inch travel and bam... buzz buzz buzz.. nasty sound and i know you know the sound.....

Alex Sol

the range of the slave looks correct also. about an inch to inch and 1/2 movement against the newly greased clutch fork 'hole'...

Rocket Rob

Could you have installed the clutch disk backwards and the noise you are hearing is the clutch disk grinding against the transmission input shaft? I hope not. That would force you to drop the engine to fix.

Alex Sol

is it possible the clutch fork is only connected on one side???

ie: the driver's side is in position but the passenger side is off?

Alex Sol

i think there is no way we could have installed the clutch disk backward because i wouldn't be able to attach the pressure plate... the clutch has a long and short side where the transmission spline comes through. and the long side goes into the flywheel side and short side stay on the pressure plate side...

question is: can we install the clutch fork onto the throw out bearing whilst still in the car???

or better, how to check if the fork is incorrectly aligned on one side....

Alex Sol

should i start a new thread or change the title to this thread since... i bought a new slave anyway... haha

Rocket Rob

Can you reattach the throw out fork to the bearing while in the car? Perhaps. If I was to try to do that, I would remove the starter, so you can get a hand in on the other side to try and align it with the bearing. It will be tricky. Its not easy when the engine & tranny are on the floor. I've never done it with the engine in the car. But it can't hurt to try. Besides removing the starter may give you the ability to see the fork and bearing to see if everything is in place or not.

Alex Sol

great tip! at least we'll know if that is the problem... how to get the nut above the starter off ?? haha...

i know it's tricky and requires the right sized socket extensions...

Rocket Rob

Removing the starter is a hassle but can be done. I would suggest lowering down the engine 2 inches to make for easier access.

Alex Sol

fixed... for now... dropped motor 2 1/2 hours, fixed part and replaced bearings then re installed in about 3 hours - all from the comfort of my garage at home...

found the problem... broke the part in the transmission housing that holds the cross shaft so instead of the clutch fork rotating, it was pushing towards against the pressure plate and grinding.

took to aluminum welder, replaced the needle bearings and seals, found the black plastic **** that goes on the end and zipped it all together. still not perfect. it's not easy to engage the gears. i need another couple of mm's to completely disengage the clutch...

more bleeding perhaps?

so wrap up this thread... i did not kill my slave but ended buying new hydraulic hose because both ends were showing wear and replaced the slave because i thought it was not doing its job. plus he boot was torn so i figured let's replace and not have to deal with it for another.... 100,000 kms?