WTB - Rear Half Shaft C4
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From: fairfield, CT
WTB - Rear Half Shaft C4
I'm kind of stuck - I need to replace the right rear half shaft on my C4 - or rebuild mine, but I need the outer CV joint rebuilt, so that's not really possible at the moment. So I will replace mine and rebuild it later...
Does anyone have a C4 Rear Half shaft lying around that needs repacking and boots? Something inexpensive is really the way I need to go. as long as the outer CV is ok, I can handle the rest....boots, packing, inner CV etc...
Just cant handle another big hit $ right now...
Has anyone ever noticed that when you type C4 while holding down the shift key it comes out as C$.....
Does anyone have a C4 Rear Half shaft lying around that needs repacking and boots? Something inexpensive is really the way I need to go. as long as the outer CV is ok, I can handle the rest....boots, packing, inner CV etc...
Just cant handle another big hit $ right now...
Has anyone ever noticed that when you type C4 while holding down the shift key it comes out as C$.....
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From: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
FWIW CV of Ocala rebuilt all of my halfshafts for ~$150/each. I chose them becuase they polish the races (not grind, which removes the hardening) and they use upsize ***** (up to .003" over) to make up the tolerance.
Have 25k on the rears and ~10k on the fronts with no issues.
Have 25k on the rears and ~10k on the fronts with no issues.
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From: fairfield, CT
nick - yeah nothing from dc or partsheaven - out of stock
feral - How much time did it take to get the CV done at Ocala? It's kind of my only car, so I cant really be without it for too long..
feral - How much time did it take to get the CV done at Ocala? It's kind of my only car, so I cant really be without it for too long..
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Thread Starter
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From: fairfield, CT
thats pretty amazing and maybe the way to go.
Quesiton - is there anything special I need to know before trying to tackle this - Never have taken a half shaft out -
What I have now are the following:
allen sockets, torque wrenches, and a torque multiplier good up to 2000lbs (i figure I can get 339 lbs acurately with this when I re-torque the axel nut)
what abt pitfalls or anything i need to watch out for? the bentley book says to replace the axel nut each time? is that necessary?
Further - on a C4 half shalf - are the allen bolts m8 or m10? m10 bolts are 60 lb torque spec and the m8's are 26 lb?
Quesiton - is there anything special I need to know before trying to tackle this - Never have taken a half shaft out -
What I have now are the following:
allen sockets, torque wrenches, and a torque multiplier good up to 2000lbs (i figure I can get 339 lbs acurately with this when I re-torque the axel nut)
what abt pitfalls or anything i need to watch out for? the bentley book says to replace the axel nut each time? is that necessary?
Further - on a C4 half shalf - are the allen bolts m8 or m10? m10 bolts are 60 lb torque spec and the m8's are 26 lb?
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From: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
Stuff to know:
1. Use a fresh Allen-head tool. Depending on the age/use of the fasteners they can be corroded and/or distorted. The last thing you want is to round out the socket. You need an M6.
2. It really helps to have a partner; you need to have the axle fixed (in gear or brakes on) to turn the bolts out but you can't reach all the bolts without rolling the axle over. It's a real PITA to take out a fastener, crawl out from under, let the brakes off, rotate the wheel, put the brakes on, crawl under, repeat.
3. You're supposed to use new fasteners. I got mine from McMaster-Carr, pn 91290A448. Note well that these may rust; I protected them with CorrosionX heavy duty. M8x50
4. Air is yer pal. I got the axle nuts off with a rattlegun no problem.
5. Don't roll the car around with no axles installed.
1. Use a fresh Allen-head tool. Depending on the age/use of the fasteners they can be corroded and/or distorted. The last thing you want is to round out the socket. You need an M6.
2. It really helps to have a partner; you need to have the axle fixed (in gear or brakes on) to turn the bolts out but you can't reach all the bolts without rolling the axle over. It's a real PITA to take out a fastener, crawl out from under, let the brakes off, rotate the wheel, put the brakes on, crawl under, repeat.
3. You're supposed to use new fasteners. I got mine from McMaster-Carr, pn 91290A448. Note well that these may rust; I protected them with CorrosionX heavy duty. M8x50
4. Air is yer pal. I got the axle nuts off with a rattlegun no problem.
5. Don't roll the car around with no axles installed.
Thread Starter
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From: fairfield, CT
Hey Feral - Question - Did you have to remove the rear coilover to get the half shaft out? Or is it not in the way - I have heard conflicting comments abt that...The shop manual doesnt mention the coilover at all - so it seams fairly quick and easy....
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From: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
No- just undo the outboard nut, then pull the bolts from the inner. The inboard end will drop down and you can slide the assembly out. It's conceivable you may need to rap on the outboard stubshaft to get it free of the hub spline. Gently here, and use a block of wood or a soft-faced mallet.