Navaros911

Brave... I'll try it myself next time. All I'm missing right now is my very own 12 year old.

Perhaps I can rent one somewhere.

I'd love to do my own...

Alex Sol

update: tore down the long block down to the split case and found my number 8 bearing - dummy proof if one were to stick the pin into the matching hole. turns out i stuck it in the oil hole and though none the wiser that he bloody red o ring was staring at me for the last week.

spent six days and nights setting up a 6 room wellness clinic for wifey... paint, move, do my day job, paint some more... think about the 964... and finally... long weekend came and finished the move saturday 3am. got up sunday and tore down everything by about 4pm and started with the reinstall. cleaned up all the sealant (s), loctite 574, threebond 1184, curil T, o ring lube, etc etc

everything went pretty smooth, lined up the number 8 bearing correctly this time, and had the crank case closed up well before sundown... very satisfying

Alex Sol

got up Monday and cleaned more - heads, cam towers, cam chain housing, debated about re using the cam gasket - still in perfect shape but flatter than brand new from being in the motor for a week

installed piston/cylinders onto the connecting rods - skipped step of not having to install piston rings - lost one circlip but luck had six extra

broke for lunch and came back to install heads and cam towers

somehow mixed up the left side cam tower with the right side and had a small meltdown until i realized you can unbolt the 12 x 2 head studs and swap right for left with heads still connected to the cam towers

installed the cam chain housing, ramps, cam sprockets then rockers

wrapped up the motor in plastic wrap and slipped it into the Honda Odyssey.

Alex Sol

how to put motor in honda - put a piece of plywod about 3' x 4' and roll the entire motor and engine holder with yoke still on right into the back. tip the motor forward, support with a couple of 2 x 4s and slip off the engine holder

i did this because i do not understand how to do cam timing and wanted to take to my porsche expert to check my work and do cam timing

Alex Sol

get up Tuesday and go to work... take off early afternoon and land at the shop with motor hanging out the back of the van.

have Robert check my set up. rockers in wrong place and set up the rockers so that they can be easily removed / adjusted in future

important note: do not take the crank pulley apart by removing 10 m6 bolts and forget to properly line up the three piece crank...

after setting cylinder 1 to top dead center and lining up z1 mark with the middle of crankcase, we started the cam setup

gapped the intake / exhaust rockers then hooked up the z block / dial gauge tool

spun the motor a couple times check the lift and set to spec on left side, torqued the cams to spec and repeated right side

slapped on the cam chain covers (temporarily), pushed the motor back into trunk and headed home...

next steps - fuel, air intake, accessories (power steering, distributor, sensors, etc etc)

Alex Sol

swensna -definitely don't rush and it pays to have ocd when rebuilding this motor...

Navarro: 12 year old very helpful, grabbed my 17 yr old neighbor who hangs around the house to help clean off the sealant... and had the help of my buddy who is rebuilding his mark II golf - extra set of hands really helps when installing the circlips (without the special tool), and torquing down cam tower and head studs - he would have the dempsey book open and guide me on the proper sequence for the 18 cam tower nuts and 12 head studs on each side, plus helps to have extra set of eyes making sure i don't mess up!

Alex Sol

https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/Camera%20Uploads

here's the shot of us setting the rocker gaps in the trunk of the honda... blue painted plywood, with a couple of dirty 2x4s keeping the motor stable... yoke still attached so that i could take the motor out solo when i got home

Alex Sol

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e8ms3k1l1u...2019.10.12.jpg

oops disregard that last one... how do i delete that?

swesna

nice progress

Alex Sol

yes sir. 80s rock star with mullet - business in front, party in the back!

saga continues tonight....

Alex Sol

okay installed the rocker covers, chain housing covers, oil tubes that feed the cams, chain tensioner covers

now looking at electrical:

fan / alternator

fuel intake

looks a little fuzzy and my pictures that i took don't quite describe all that needs to correct reinstall.

i'll look up engine harness hook up and hope to find some answers.

Alex Sol

spent the weekend researching and scratching my head about the rebuild.

while stripping the car down, i should have taken some more relevant pictures. ie: shot of the knock sensor, shot of the electrical fuel lines, pictures of the alternator, more pics of the air intake and fuel lines

so here's what i did

1. ran the alternator lines through the engine shroud
2. connected the two brown grounds to the crankcase - one has 4 brown wires, the other a single brown wire
3. installed fresh gaskets to bottom of each air/fuel intake and screwed down the three nuts x 6 intake ports, over torqued one of them and snapped off a corner
4. here's where i should have installed the 2 knock sensors and could have save a bit of fiddling time
5. installed freshly flowed injectors
6. installed fuel rail - of course i did not take pictures or mark which side so that took a little while to figure out
7. wired up the injectors - shortest wire from the front / flywheel side to longest to the rear/fan side, the wires that go to the alternator connect to the right hand side fuel rail the wires that have connections to the fan belt sensor go to the left hand side fuel rail
8. air intake goes on top, major clean up first with the carb and choke cleaner
9. then added the fuel lines that fun from left to right side rails in the rear /fan side
10. next the spark plug wires - i bought the nology wires and the do not fit under the fan top cover - will have to pull out the dremel tool
11. then installed the pulleys
12. i will be cutting the aluminum a/c bracket so that it slips over the main pulley without removing the pulley
13. power steering is in, made sure to install front right hand side engine tin first, will fill with dextron II ATF
14 cruise control was left out as it did not work - i would really like to have cruise as i use it on long boring straights where it is known to be monitored by police
15. distributor went in without too much trouble - set crank to top dead centre, distributor to number 1 cylinder markings - couldn't open the secondary but replaced the belt 75,000 kms ago and installed the vent kit at that time

next: engine tin, and connect the transmission

Alex Sol

engine tin and test fitted and will re install after motor is in. should be enough room?

modded AC bracket to clear the main pulley: ground off the 10mm or so of aluminum using a cheapie grinder and took only about 10 mins... lots of reason to do this Any reason not to? I've busted two of these bc I didn't realize there is two support bracket / braces.

Struggled with the transmission the rest of the night.

Dropped the motor onto a motorcycle jack and car tire. 155 / 80 / 13 seems to work nicely and the engine is well balanced

eyeball aligned the clutch - no alignment tool and thought we'd give it a try...

placed the transmission on a dolly and got the angle correct then brute forced the tranny onto the engine, snugged it up but struggling with the shift fork. any easy way to do this? does the transmission need to be split about 5 mm? 1/4 " so that the fork has room to be installed?

ran out of time and will continue next day

swesna

good progress. i still have to remove my transmission from the engine. it is just sitting there waiting for me in the garage.

Alex Sol

swesna, have you removed the trans before?

don't forget to get m5 x 30-40mm bolt to slip out the shaft that holds the shift fork... i hope i got my terms correct